Ascents in Mitcham Quarries having Beta

Sick climb kinda scary. Watch for rope around ankle after 3rd bolt.

Good moves on relatively solid dark rock.

Someone could get killed!

Nice access route. The moves are good, however the top section still has some loose rock.

Hard start - not exactly a warm-up!

big wall experience at windy point! farken crap!

Really nice face climbing with some pretty cool moves along the seam, pity it’s not longer. It was my second sesh on it and got it I’m definitely not the first one to downgrade routes, but honestly I don’t think it’s 27. There is just one full on crimpy move but otherwise the holds are not bad. I expected crimps from hell at 27. Also, it has some new bolts and chains, so it’s all safe.

Pretty bloody good..

agree with Joanna, just shy of 27

No chains meant a very spooky exit.

I like it.

Cool if you like one move wonders at the very top. Not sure if I'll go back to lead this. It would make a very scary lead in its present state.

free solo'd till the protruding boulders, and then like an idiot fell on the down climb. very fun will come back with rope!

Probably better than some climbs here.

Certainly easier than the grade suggests. Takes the overhanging diagonal ledge to the top and mantles out. Suspicious rock,

Toproping a 10 suggests I didn't think much of the rock.

certainly felt harder than a 10. Probably due to hold breakage down low.

Short but tough. The best route here.

Certainly packs a punch for such a small climb. Certainly not leadable anymore. Bolts rusted and bent and no chains.

Tough, especially for purists who would choose not to clip the neighbouring bolts!

Nice moves down low on stable rock. Just a shame the rock turns to absolute shit up high.

Make that mega crap.

Loose and gritty.

The answer is Coopers. Bring a helmet and your sense of humour.

Well protected as least - about 15 bolts in 11m!

Lead with a number 3 cam in the obvious hole in 'Bomber Choss' and taped to the wall. Bouldery sequence down low leads into the top of 'Bomber Choss'. Questionable rock. Only Car Crash junkies apply!

This climbs really excellently, just shame the gear isn't better. Soft for the grade.. soft as in sand.. in a bag. Feels probably closer to 22 (edit: assuming ELV is probably 21) - harder on toprope than ELV was to lead. Quite comparable climbs: about same height, both quite bouldery, but ELV is less sustained.. and has bolts.. and rock that probably wont kill you

Climbs really nicely, needs more cleaning and traffic to really clean up but once clean this will become quite a nice little addition to the face. Quite technical, with the right amount of punch to make it just right.

Climbs well. Quite a bit of pro up to about half way then run out to the top on suspicious rock. Not an ideal lead if your just climbing the grade.

Don't think this climbs too nicely compared to Desperate Living - the first section is easy if you climb it poorly and just yard up the slopers, the cruxy part through the underclings is nicer. Didn't link this today as it was impossible to see the footers in dark even with head-torch, but felt marginally easier then DL

slowly getting rid of a few embarassing top rope ascents ...

Could be worth a beer

Not as hard as gonads

A tad soft for the grade if you've got a long reach. Originally top-roped Dec 2001

Excellent tricky start and sustained thereafter.

Onsight attempt, took a few drops

Dog attempt which failed at the third bolt (not clipped). Just don't know how ti get myself in a comfortable position to clip! Hopefully I make it to the chains next time so I can sequence it together on top rope!

From the looks of it, probably the best climb in this crag! Crimpiness and balance with bad feet, crowning with a big deadpoint at the end! Almost an OS, but my foot slipped :S Definitely a really cool line

I'll get it clean next time on lead. Very beta specific!

2 sits. Next time!

Fark

Getting closer one sequence at a time

Nails 3rd clip. Pumped

Fark final hold grab then meltidge

Finally! Perfect conditions this morning helped

Attempted this on top rope. Made it to the top but far from clean. Couple of rests. Did all the moves but now to link them all. Very crimpy down low. Couldn't imagine leading it any time soon

Had a looksy and worked out the moves. Skin started hurting and was time to head off. Looking forward to getting back on this one on the next trip down.

It's not the Blue Mountains but an awesome way to spend an Easter arvo. This little wall in particular was great - techy, bouldery vert. Nice.

Totally onsightable route for me but just did too much climbing beforehand.. Next visit for sure.

Top ok, bottom desperate