Node |
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Tom's Quarry |
20
Palm Muting a Jackson
The black slab ribbed with horizontals. |
10
A Last-Ditch Effort
The prominent widening crack in the centre of the wall. |
22
Fade to Black
Start at the R end of the face and follow the diagonal ledge up L to the horizontal and a bolt.Up past a second bolt to chains. |
V4
Outer Mongolian Yak Herders
Sit start just L of small undercut section near R end of bouldering wall. Up thin crack then L to finishing jug. |
V4
Revenge of the Killer Mutated Sea Bass
Prominent crack at far R end of bouldering wall. |
★★ Thank You Mr Hilti
Start R of bouldering wall at lowest point of cliff (just R of the undercut base). Up past two ring bolts then take the diagonal to another bolt and on to chains. THIS IS A OPEN PROJECT HAVE FUN |
17
Schmleau
Start at the crack just R of the overhung section. Up to the horizontal, tackle the bulge, then on to chains. |
Tusmore Towers
Approach via Beagle Terrace, through the SES depot and up the Lynton to Belair bike track. Cut left half way up the Council dump along the dirt track and follow the fence turn tree line. Take a left where the end of the Down hill bike tracks start and follow the path past an old quarry evident the right. Head down the hill for 20m and then right through the gap in the trees. Follow your nose past the plastic bottles and cut garden hose, opening through to the foot of the crag. Alternate approach via Seaview Road (if you can get parking). |
Tusmore Towers |
27
★★ Cycle Sluts from Hell
The thin seam in the centre of the wall (3 bolts to chains) |
24
★ Twenty Two, Going on Twenty Three
Hanging belay 5m L of CSFH. Up past 4 bolts to chains |
25
★★ Space Cowboy
Stick-clip the first bolt and use a long and short draw on the second bolt so the hard move at the top of the layback crash is protected. Head up the thuggy right leaning layback crack. Then head left and up at the second bolt and stay left of the block with the X on it near the top. Once the final draw is clipped, traverse left and mantle onto the Cycle Sluts ledge. |
22
★ Queen Vixen
An access route to get to the belay anchor of CSfH. Bouldery start, then go up the sharp flake on the right to clip the 3rd draw and move left to a tricky mantle. The rock quality from this point on is not the best, so be careful of your belayer. |
Windy Point
Sector to the right of the Cycle Sluts wall. |
16
Hollow Lot of Trust
Up the slab the third bolt. Use the finger crack in the dihedral where needed before moving right under the hollow boulder under the roof. Traverse left on the hollow rock and move up to the chains. |
19
★ Slick Rick's 6m First Clip
Start 2m right of Hollow and Bring your biggest and best stick clip, or trust the quarry and climb up to the first U-bolt to secure some form of safety. Up the slab and follow the fingery sequence to the double bolt anchor at the top. |
22
★★ Rik Broke My Ankle
Don't let a chossy start and end section detract from an intricate and engaging route! Bouldery moves up to the second bolt lead to a thought-provoking thin layback seam. Watch the rope up to the 4th bolt (it has a penchant for ankles). After a well deserved rest at the 5th bolt enjoy choss slab glory up to anchor. |
18
Band Camp Variant
Start up the hill, 2 metres to the left of the Koogacharma. Easy climbing to the first bolt then follow the line of the original. |
20
★ Koogacharma
Climb up the crack to gain the first ledge. The 3rd and 4th bolt are interchangeable and open to climb past one of them. Climb up the face and step out onto the northern facing slab. Up the slab and climb Over to the north western facing slab using the awkward flake before reaching the ring anchor. |