Routes as trad in South Australia

From the start of Octopus's Garden/Sealab 2020 wander diagonally up R. Take the first vertical line, a pleasant short offwidth to jugs.

Start 3m right of SeaLab 2020 by downclimbing to the diagonal crack rising up to the right. Easily up the crack crossing a drop in the ocean. Continue up the rising crack passing a nice looking slab and continue moving right until a cave appears. Enter the cave then exit through an eliptical hole to gain the top of the nice looking slab. Exit right to belay.

A lovely climb with the crux in the first 2 moves. Start as for the nips are getting smaller. Up to the horizontal at about 2.5m for good cam placement. Now step left to arete and straight up. Continue up arete to an open book corner. Place good runner in the corner and step left onto arete. Continue up arete to the top.

From the cave R of Easter Egg, climb 5m L almost to the pointy block. Up the main crack to the horizontal then the wide crack on the R to the top.

Takes the wall between Close Your Eyes and Clea. Cross the latter and finish airily up the steepening between Clea and Clea Direct. Side-runners can be arranged in Clea's lower crack if required.

Not that spicy. Start 2m right of Perineum and follow Periscope but move left after the big scooped block to climb Perineum's dank chimney. Take care to avoid loose cling-ons. Exit to right of rooflet to rejoin Periscope for the last few metres.

The narrow chimney 2m left of Periscope. Start behind large boulder at high tide mark and climb through side pulls to first ledge. Pull up through a short corner then continue easily up a bare protrusion to the left of large scooped block that leads to a crevice where the sun don't shine. Exit chimney to left side of rooflet and continue straight up along vertical crack to reach the penultimate ledge and easy climbing to the top.

The slab route 1.5m left of Yabro(as of the crag), possibly could be Yabro as in the book and the slab marked on the crag could be a different route?

The L arete of Lucky Charm Wall.

Start in the corner crack to the L of Everything is 19. Climb to half height, then take either/both of the twin cracks to the top.

Short but fun. Up crack behind cave on the far right end (Southern end) of Northern end area.

Start up the crux seam as for Green Room, after this instead of going left, trend up fun crack on the right to slab up top. Up the slab and mount final bulge with finger crack in it. Great gear and a much better finish to Green Room

Kelly did 3 rounds with the boxthorn tree growing out from the bottom, even a midnight shift on the secateurs. Finally on the 4th round he got to tie in and do battle. A must do squeeze chimney, Yosemite-ish, pants recommended. Mount the box thorn stump and chicken wing and thrust your way up, slinging boulders as you go. Hard to grade, blue collar work, add 10 grades if you’ve never done a squeeze chimney before.

Take the direct line under the top crack. Interesting start that’s a bit better than it looks.

Offwidth boulder to the right of Better with a 6.

6m. Lead with a 6. Grade 6(?)

Scramble down from Better with a 6, then short rappel or down climb onto massive ledge. Alternatively rap from top of climb.

Climb easy hand crack with flake on the R, to half height. Traverse R 1m on cool crystal vein to gain access to the fun overhanging crack, up this to top.

An obvious natural weakness that starts underneath 'The Hat' and traverses up and left underneath 'Battery Acid' and finishes as per 'Mic Drop'. Bring plenty of cams, and be aware of rope drag.

First 3 bolts of 'Blades of Glory' then break R on the obvious shield feature, plug some cams in the roof, then move strenuously through the bulge placing your last bit of gear. Head right to the arete and climb further than you want to above your gear before clipping the second last bolt on Blades and finishing as per that route.

Climbs the semi bolted line to the left of the 2nd pitch of hangover layback. Bouldery start past a few bolts and finish at chains left of Hangover Layback's second belay. Originally equipped by Dave Bowen.

The most commanding line on the stunning wall.

Rappel down to a small ledge 5 metres above the water, with redirects as required. The belay ledge stays miraculously dry even with a big swell due to the shape of the rock below. Epic position. Bomber gear anchor. Climb gains a star for the belay alone!

Fun, easy corner jamming to ledge on the left, followed by more challenging jamming, bridging and face climbing up the diagonal crack system. 4m from the top take the RH vertical line up to the large top out ledge. (The wider diagonal continuation LH finish may be worthwhile?)

Standard double rack with cams up to BD#4 adequate.

Located on faces below the main Easter island wall. Climb up the large flake to a small ledge.

Start on a small ledge 2 metres right of the start of Periwinkle pirouette’s offwidth section. Head up and right to reach the crux at an offwidth section then to fun double jam cracks, top out at the Boulder.

Tastey offwidth thrutchiness Start as Pericles for 3 meters, step right at the ledge and continue groveling up the offwidth to the top. Highly recommend a #5 cam or two

A spicy but fun combination of off width and jamming. Pitch 1, 10m. (11) Easy chimney followed by a short corner crack onto large ledge. Pitch2, 10m (18) A short offwidth battle leads to glorious jamming either side of a giant baguette, join Pericles top out via diagonal undercling crack.

If weather and sea conditions look dicy, rap to the ledge at the start of the second pitch.

Around the corner from 'Easy Does It'. Start up an easy slab to a small roof, head up and over this to an easier top section

60m R of Expired Macropod is a steep offwidth. 15m R again is a R-leaning thin crack with a bulge at 6m. Follow this to an easy scramble off.

Crack/groove 3m L of Green Dream. At the ledge, step R then up the open black corner.

The direct start to Scotch Missed's arete, via a tiny corner. SM's bolt was clipped on the FLA.

From the start of Octopus's Garden, wander diagonally up R then take the second line on the L (an offwidth/chimney).

Crimpy slab has been cleaned and dangerous blocks removed. Has been TR at about grade 18/19? Will need bolts in the first half to be lead. Finish up crack on left and up easy slab on top. Climbs really well!

Pass left around the Lucky Charm bulge.

Spartacus pitch 1 - Tourmaline - Perhaps pitches 4 and 5.

An exciting outing that tackles the shield of rock to the left of the second pitch of Pine crack. (1) 30m 16 climb Thor variant start to belay as for that route. (2) 25m 18. Start up Thor's second pitch for a few metres until its possible to place a few small cams before heading out right past a bolt to the rattly but solid blocks. Turn the arete and continue up the face past 4 more bolts and some natural gear. DBB (55m abseil possible from here) or continue 10 m to Thor ledge.

Arete and wall L of the Start corner. Okay protection.

An amazing outing up the seam and corner! A very spicy lead and just as enjoyable as a TR. Bring micro nuts for the first half.

Stem across to large footer and pre-place a good #3 BD nut before launching up the seam (options for smaller back up nuts also). Boulder problem leads you left into the corner, another foot or so allows for some micro nut placements (Kong#2 and BD#4, smaller options exist also). Up fun corner with solid gear, mantle, and up final short crack. Great!

Start up the left most wide crack before the Walk the plank ledge, Gain the arete and scramble up to the top.

Straight up to small ledge then Weave up the chimney to easier climbing at the top.

Solo traverse along the rising horizontal crack along the bottom of the cliff.

Start at the left end of Bumblies, Follow the vertical crack crack to ledge and then follow the Left diagonal crack to Peace and Dubs's second roof. Undercling the right leaning crack to finish.

Start at half height on the detached boulder. Take the wide crack to a roof then continue up Right to a tongue of rock. Traverse around left under the second roof to an eerie finish.

The left most jam crack, easy start gets tougher as you get higher.

Same start as the 'Dr Dre's', then traverse far left into the easy corner.

Start as for Walk the Plank until thin verticle seam 1m before the end of the ledge. Straight up the path of least resistance until a large horizontal break. Up the close seam 1m right of WTP flake. .2 cam at top of the seam to protect slopey top out.

Amazing overhung flake. Rappel down through the little window to a big ledge. Hard high Undercling start with no feet. Fight your way up the first section to the big jug. Blind cam placements first 3ms. Origionally climbed with preplaced cams at the start. Up pumpy jugs to the top

Start up the big crack. Traverse left with jams or along the slopey rail. Up final hand crack. Good value for a short climb!

Offwitch style instead of layback. Climbed originally with a 5 only.

Layback the big crack and mantle . Beware of the potencial loose rock at the top of the right side of the crack. One piece has come off leaving a jug but maybe the rest could come off as well.

Start might be wet. start climbing the blocks and up leftish, Avoid the first big block wedged in the crack. Easy climbing up to a corner and then aim for the short but epic hand crack. Easy climbing up to doublt bolt anchor. Lots of slopey mantles

Up large lightening bolt crack and scramble up to top of cliff. Natural anchor

Up the large crack and scrable fun climbing up to top of cliff. Natural anchor.

Right side of big roof. Thin layback crack up to mini undercling crack. Up to obvious ledge. Step off ledge onto roof face and up to double bolt anchor

Left side of big roof. Left of the two fist cracks. fists fists fists layback bodyjam slopy mantle. Double bolt anchor easily accesable with a short scramble down from above roof. .

Right of the two fist cracks same grade as left

Fist crack start up to ledge. Powerful underclings and into the offwidth. Stem the corner or climb offwidth style

The alternate way up the pillar. Start as for Mermaid's pool but then follow the diagonal break to the arete and back in.

The large blocky crack up the black lower face. Nice start. couple awkward moves off ledge, one bolt in the middle as the pro is poor. Clip 2nd bolt and commit using slopers to mantle up.

The corner crack up the sea pillar. Rap down to the small ledge then climb up the easy corner to the top. enjoy the scenery as you go.

The exit route from the top of the pillar. Follow the RH prominent crack up into the fun off width finish.

Mega exposure alert. Start as for Walk the plank but once you reach the quartz seam start the no hands traverse left along the rough quartz. Once you reach the ledge on the other side make your way up the dark grey hourglass shaped flake moving up left under a rooflet to gain a small ledge. Too out either up the crack or horizontal breaks to the right.

Feel the exposure. Walk out on the narrow black ledge and then up the thin crack until you reach the quartz seam. Follow the good sized crack up to the ledge and top out using the bulgy flake.

The easiest way up from the ledge. Start on the far left of the ledge and follow the the easy line up and slightly right to the top.

The monster offwidth crack that dominate the west facing wall. Excellent hand jams lead to fun 3D climbing until halfway where it turns into a pure offwidth struggle. Wrestle with the beast that tries to drag you back down!

The shorter version of Fish Fingers from the large ledge for when the tide or swell makes it unsafe to start from the bottom.

A fun crack climb with some slab challenges. Start up the hand sized crack to reach the large ledge and up the spicy finger crack slab to an easy finish.

The shorter version of Reggae Shark from the ledge up, for when the tide and swell make it unsafe to start from the bottom.

The corner crack between the two main walls. Fun vertical climbing that eases off toward the top into more positive and slightly slabby. Trust your feet, the granite is grippy.

The splitter crack on the left hand side of the wall.

Start deep inside the boulder cave on two good hand jams at the start of the crack. Climb the crack to the very top. Choose your own nightmare!

Begin up the zigzag crack 1.5m L of the main line.

Up just L of Mariah, L along the horizontal, a step up then the little seam to the top.

The rib widening to a wall 2m R of The Ear. Cams to BD #4 in the crack on L.

Up through the lower cave to the tiny bottomless corner on the R side of Plexas' detached block. Up this, step L onto the block and continue as for Plexas, alternatively finish directly up the face at a similar grade.

Easy clean slab starting 15m R of The Eavesdropper. The R side of the first section to the ledge then the middle of the upper section (medium cams). The grade includes topping out (cruxy).

How the the route is meant to be climbed! Pitch 1 to the DBB. From here continue directly up the slab to the horizontal. Head for the vertical slot and follow this to the very top. Exit at the very top of the cliff through the opening. Rock deteriorates significantly on the second pitch.

Start as for Low variant but head up 4-5m and remain high traversing through the lip of The Great Roof and around second bulge at Chocolate Oreo. Continue right around corner and finish up last face of rock. A couple of spicy moves, but loads of great rests and well protected by horizontal crack.

The wall just L of the triple-roofed feature R of Red Lucy. The serious climbing starts at a bomber #2 BD cam slot.

Over the little flat ceiling just above half-height 5m R of Zipper.

Belayers beware. Up to the shallow roof-capped corner (most safely approached from the R) at the R end of the cliff. Escape up the crack on the R.

Up just R of Brewing Alternatives to a broad ledge then carefully tackle the steep wall via two tiny grooves.

The short open groove 4m R of Monkey.

Over the nose 1.5m R of The Doomed Sheoak.

Bulgy arete high on the cliff just L of the red corner.

Up and into the red corner in the middle of the cliff. Exit L.

There is a multi-roofed feature 3m R of Red Lucy. Climb the wall bordering its R side.

The short shallow groove 2m R of Tripitaka.

Recessed line capped by bulges 1m R of Bird's Nest Groove.

Climbs the central diagonal corner. Do your best to dodge the paper wasps and loose rock! Established as a free solo but plenty of gear.

The central line with innovative fixed gear. Follow the vertical weaknesses up and right around the corner. Continue up the crack and top out. Has an assortment of gear hammered into the weaknesses including an old car seat belt buckle. Best fixed gear ever! Gear appears to be very old.

Probably best to be climbed on trad judging on how old the gear is and how it's inserted into the rock. Literally just bolts hammered into the cracks. FRA climbed on the gear for them old school feels.

Quite a nice little route. Start Where the graffiti is and climb the left hand side of the face. Climb through the vertical finger crack and once at the top traverse right until you are at the off width. Climb this to the top. Top out. Pay caution to the top as the rock deteriorates significantly here.

I pledge a legion to the life of the Quarryman. Do this route and you'll be a true Car Crash Quarryman! A left to right traverse of the entire quarry. The description is described with the pitches I did but the piteches can be done however you choose to do them. Gear is mixed.

Pitch 1. Start just left of 'Old School Face Slap' and traverse the underside of the overhang to the end of the big roof of Covid22. Scramble across the slab to a stance in the corner at half way height. Clip 'Fading Light's' third bolt and climb across this, around the arete. Anchor into 'Smearing on Mount McKinley's' third bolt.

Pitch 2. Climb across 'Technicolour Sunfish' keeping in in line with the third bolt. Climb through the 'Fear' crack, around the corner and above the Bee Hive (try not to get stung by any bees!) and head towards the chains of 'Stepping into the Unknown'.

Pitch 3. From here keep heading right through the high vertical cracks and around the arete. Join 'Hard Stone City' at it's horizontal sloping ledge. Downclimb this route slightly and head towards the chains of 'Rainbow Wall.

Pitch 4. Climb through 'Running To A Standstill' keeping at it's third bolt and into 'No Mans Land' slab. Keep going through the vertical crack of 'Naturalist' and into Exodus keeping at half way height of this line.

Pitch 5. Climb around the arete and into the centre of 'Sexy Love Slots' slab. Keep going at half way height until you reach the big semi detached block of 'Dont Touch Me There'. Climb under and around this, around the arete into the vertical Seam of 'Fisting A Shark' to a stance on this climbs big roof crack block.

Pitch 6. From Here downclimb 'Felch Me Directs' crack and join 'Felch Me' at it's second bolt. Climb this route into the V corner, across 'OCD' keeping just under the overlap and through the Chossy corner of 'Choss Stone City'.

Pitch 7. Climb around the slight arete, keeping in line with 'Taste The Pains' third bolt. Climb through this line and under the big roof of 'Disposable Garbage'. Pay extra caution to the blocks under here as they are loose. Climb around the corner and head for 'ELV's' chains.

Pitch 8. From here rest because the next pitch is the crux pitch. Downclimb the staircase and head through the V hold of 'Footloose', and climb 'Beg For Mercy' to the very end!

Starts a metre left of 'Taste The Pain' under the big detached block. Climb the face keeping left of the vertical sloping weakness. Once at the roof head left around it and up the corner. Pull onto the slab and traverse right and finish at the chains.

Climbs the left hand side of the corner. Start up the very loose brittle white rock and work through the detached blocks. Once at the overhang get some jams above your head and work your way into the top of 'Taste The Pain'. Finish at the old rusty chains for the full experience. WARNING The first half is extremely loose. Make sure your belayer is anchored well left of the fall zone!

Climb Eric until the far left corner at mid heigtht. Instead of veering right up the face, continue in the large crack trending left.

Start at right end of wall on ledge. Up past 4 bolts to rap chains.

Continuous fun climbing. The funky looking flake about 6 metres from left end of wall. 6 bolts to abseil chains.

Up flake and horizontal breaks passing 2 bolts near the top and finish up crack right of X Factor. 2 bolts and selection of small to medium cams.

Start as for The Very Furry Caterpillar Pull over rooflet at 3m and head up and left to finish up crack.

Start as for The Very Furry Caterpillar Pull over rooflet at 3m and head up and right up centre of wall.

Takes sickle flake 15m right of descent gully. Start behind yakka bush, head right around flake, when it has curved up to vertical, step left over it and continue up wall above.