Routes in South Australia for selected grade

Previously unrecorded but climbed years ago (like 100's of others). A 3-move problem. Start on a gaston crimp and small pocket, launch RH to the sloper, match, then straight to Boing's finish hold.

Cocktoe extension to end jug of Tao, then reverse climb into Inflatable Bulge and finish on top of bulge via some chimney moves.

Climbs the semi bolted line to the left of the 2nd pitch of hangover layback. Bouldery start past a few bolts and finish at chains left of Hangover Layback's second belay. Originally equipped by Dave Bowen.

An obvious natural weakness that starts underneath 'The Hat' and traverses up and left underneath 'Battery Acid' and finishes as per 'Mic Drop'. Bring plenty of cams, and be aware of rope drag.

Start up the crux seam as for Green Room, after this instead of going left, trend up fun crack on the right to slab up top. Up the slab and mount final bulge with finger crack in it. Great gear and a much better finish to Green Room

Prominent left trending seam and crack. From the road it's the most obvious line at Greenly. Hard fingers to start, great stemming, jamming and lay backing to finish.

The face between Eternal Damnation's Arete and Lord's Prayer's Corner. Both of these routes are off limits. Begin as for Eternal Damnation and then continue up the face avoiding the arete of Eternal Damnation and corner of Lord's Prayer.

Start deep inside the boulder cave on two good hand jams at the start of the crack. Climb the crack to the very top. Choose your own nightmare!

The logical and sustained linkage of Cross Purpose start into Space Madness. A brilliant pitch of varied climbing.

Starts directly in front of the big block at the base of the wall, 2m R of Armstrong's obvious crackline. Follow the left leaning line, finishing out through the slot at the top.

Crack through roof right of Loaded Bowel, with one bolt.

The only line of bolts at Crag X. Finishes at chains on ledge.

Follows prominent right facing corner stepped by roofs to a set of chains.

Up the crack right of S.F.P. Attempted by Mark Witham & Hamish Meffin in the 1980s before lowering off fixed wire, which still remains. A core intensive layback leads to tough jamming and a rather dynamic crux. Stay off the right hand wall. Great gear at the bottom leads to a fixed wire, followed by 2 bolts in the crux section. Mixed route, 2 bolts + chains.

Start up 'The He Men of Yesteryear' and traverse R to a bolt. Straight up past 2 more bolts.

Abseil Chains now in place .

Start 2m left of Feltch Me and climb small wall to under big roof. Launch out through roof crack and up continuation to ledge. At the second horizontal traverse left to arête and finish up this (DBB). All trad. Big Cams for the roof (#3&4) and take a small cam or small wires for the traverse to the arête. Upgraded to 25 based on consensus.

The striking hanging corner to the left of Light Sabre. Small cams and an attentive belay essential for the start. The first moves as per Light Sabre then traverse left on breaks. An audacious move across the void (don’t look down at the rock spike) to the corner brings gear and some relief. The corner and crack through the rooflet above followed by an easy face then jamb through the curving crack in the orange headwall.

A stellar line up the beautiful overhanging face through the horizontal breaks, take RPs, a double set of cams from 0.2/00 to 0.4 and triple up on 0.3. Start up the blunt lay back then wend your way through the breaks following the protection. Over the easy slab then ooze onto the face right of the finishing crack of TotKP. A route you won’t forget.

Incredible and sustained climbing in an outrageous position and surely one of the best routes at the grade anywhere! The bolted line to the left of Fingernickin. Up the corner to a bolt then up past another bolt to the cam break, traversing leftwards to a hands free stance. Take a deep breath and quest up the magical arete past 5 bolts to a loweroff. A 70m rope will get you to the ground with stretch but make sure to tie a knot!

Start in the obvious corner below the stepped roof, break right and launch through the stepped rooves on the right with long moves up to the ‘morgue’, harder moves lead to easier ground and the final thin corner.

Climb Darth Vader but instead of exiting onto the slab at the 3rd BR, continue along overhung arete to a 4th BR and another crux. Mantle after the 4th.

Take 'Black Market Art' into 'One Hold One Quest'.

Strenuous boulder problem (stick clip very high bolt) starting by stepping off the block to a large undercling (right of Radford start), then trending up and left to arete (crux), and into the finish of Olympus to the piton. From here gain hold over roof and up to crimps in face, then diagonally left to finish at single bolt lower off.

One of the best routes in the Gorge. Climb the roof right of the undercut arete (Japetus) via a large undercling. Get your breath back over the lip, then launch up and left (or go direct) to the obvious rampline. One final hard move remains, then large holds lead to the chain in a runout position (Cam optional). Unfortunately the scene of some chipping circa 2005 when the crux slot on the face after the roof was altered to allow certain people's fingers to close crimp the hold. What they didn't know is that this route can be climbed direct up the face (slightly harder).

The shorter, easier and original version of Eddie and Dudley’s Excellent Adventure. Start up Dudley in the Gym, then break right under the Tim dyno to pull the crux moves and join Rain on the Parade. Milk the rest after the traverse then finish as for Rain to the top (2nd) chains.

For the boulderer. Tackles the roof right of the grade 22 corner (The Hat). From the ledge move right (BR) then up into steep terrain passing an obvious ‘doorknob’ hold, then a series of underclings, slopers and sidepulls to an interesting cut-loose crux. Mantle small shelf to gain upper headwall and continue to chain.

GC but with the benefit of using the jug out right. The standard way of climbing this line nowadays, and mistaken as the full 26 version by many.

Graded 24 until a large jug ripped off, courtesy of Mr Baker. Now a soft-touch 25 power-endurance fest. Takes the left most chalked weakness past a line of rings bolts and positive holds to a fingery crux at the last bolt. One of the best routes at the Summit.

Anzac Highway to its 4th bolt, then break left along the horizontal to join Trundle Down Rundle at its final ring bolt (crux).

KMB to the roof and then follow the bolts to olympis finish rings

Start about 8m right of Evil Angels at the obvious holds. Move up to stance on top of ledge trend left then back right past the horizontal and up into blank territory, keep going for the desperate finish. 4 bolts + chains. Robert Brooks Closed Project.

An excellent addition made up of a steep bouldery start, a pumpy big-hold mid-section, then morphing into a somewhat technical slabby finish. Finish at the chain of 'North Terrace Stroll'.

Links the start of Crossroads into the finish of North Terrace Stroll. Classic.

Quite a hard onsight. Unlikely moves epitomise both crux's of this outstanding route, which breaks through the top main roof on its leftside (past the fixed 'biner).

Start: Start below a very high 1st ring bolt, climb to this, then onwards to the fixed blue 'biner (1st crux). Take the left-trending line of jugs up and left then through the main roof and up.

A Summit classic. Optimal power-endurance climbing at the grade. Start as for 'Peregrine' RHV but launch directly up past the 1st bolt to a 2nd. Break back left via a crimpy move (crux) into 'Pussy' and finish at the chain.

Originally climbed by Matt Adams on trad gear, now climb the huecoed crack 2m right of G.O.S. stepping left at the 4th bolt to end up face past many horizontal breaks. 6 bolts + chains.

A power-endurance fest starting just right of 'Circus Street' and heading up via the 'shotgun' blast of finger pockets. Traverse left along jugs to the 'hole' - then up past shothole to match the final jug in the roof (after the last bolt).

Home of the Hitmen to 3rd BR, then move directly up past arête feature above to gain the final jug and bolt of Your Body Belongs to the State. Effectively a direct finish to HotHM. 4 BR’s to anchor.

Right of L.W.O. 3 rusted bolts can be seen leading up the blank slab and over a small rooflet. Attempted by Hamish Meffin in the 1980s. CURRENT OPEN PROJECT. Nice set of new chains (2016) at the top to clip when you send it. Replacing the bolts on the climb would be a good idea before you try this, they are old (1980's) and rusty.

Stalagmite Addiction to beyond its crux, then right above its 5th bolt into the corner, then diagonally up and right into Lust and finish as for that route. It is recommended to now clip the anchor of SCT with an extension prior to joining Lust.

A well-named route starting up and right of 'Diplomacy' (on the higher platform) and traversing the lower lip of the Hole roof via a series of heel hooks and 180 degree twists. Finish at the shothole just after the dyno (crux). Hard for the grade.

Climb Smooth Sailing until after its crux (where it meets True North) then 1m later span out left via a series of dynamic iron cross moves and bad feet to join GMB. Climb the crack of this route for approx 1-2m then a final slab boulder problem diagonally leftwards leads to the chain of Achilles Gambit. Originally freed to GMB, later extended to the obvious finish. Very technical and engaging climbing.

Takes no prisoners at the 1st bolt and if you survive that, watch out for the 2nd! Start directly beneath 1st bolt (approx. 3m right of Toxic Avenger) and climb the grey rock up to a big double undercling. Make the clip from here then launch into a sustained boulder problem to a prominent ‘blob’ jug (and 2nd BR). Make a hasty clip then bust a move up and right and continue to third BR. Tricky moves into the black right-facing corner lead to belay.

Death Trap Direct Finish. Escape from the trap then try and swim to the surface above. Possibly hard for the grade.

Climb RO to it's 2nd bolt then traverse right across PO, Gonads and through a decidedly thin sequence to join Mercey Street at it's good sidepull between it's 2nd & 3rd bolt. Finish as for this route.

The crux will explain everything. Pull onto wall and traverse right then straight up past a carrot (plate required). Up and right again a couple of moves, then straight up via a powerful undercling sequence to gain the final roof. Pull the lip (crux) and try not to leave anything behind. 5 BR's to DBB.

Eddie Misses the Point into Kill Like a Madam finish (2nd pitch of Peregrine). Unrecorded previously but had plenty of ascents.

10 metres left of the corner at the RH end of the cliff starting 1m right of the narrow grey streak. Belay safely (route is still cleaning up) from the single bolt 3m left of the start. Easily to major ledge then boldly upward through heavily sculptured overhangs aiming for the short bottomless left facing corner. Delicately through roof to gain the head wall.

A tad easier than Tim! The direct start to Tim, climbing straight up to the roof from the right side of the Cave.

The style of climbing might not appeal. As for Shelf Life to 1st BR then right and through roof into the ‘groove of pain’. Unconventional climbing leads up this to a no hands rest, then break right and finish up Trading Places.

Originally called 'Fingering Your Date For Blood'. Link up of 'Dr Strike' into 'Circus Street'. A 19-move power-enduro problem at the grade.

Start: As for 'Dr Strike'. Climb to hole, then keep traversing left via a dropdown move onto the 'Circus Street' jug and onwards.

A tremendous highball on the southwest side of the boulder. Start on the obvious incuts at the centre-right of the overhang face; bust a move to the lip, gain the mantle, and then enjoy the heady slab climbing. Top out with relief.

Sit start under boulder with left hand on sloper and right hand on pinch. Move to the unnatural sloping edge line and move right around into the slab and traverse it to the top. Mantle out.

Two Coughs to its finish jugs then across to the sloper on Are You Feeling Lucky, drop down to the lower breakline and finish as for Editor's Right.

Stand start on a good blocky side pull. Head for the lip and mantles it out. Don't bother employing someone that stands around with their hands in the air. Probably V4.

Boulder problem at the base of the Vader cave starting off two underclings, Pull on, then bust a move to a sloper with an edge on it, then up to the small jug (start hold of Darth Vader).

Surprisingly independent from 'Small Attack'. Sit start as for 'Small Attack' on the two lowest sidpulls and move through the sidepulls until you reach the top. Mantle as for 'Saturns Rings'.

SLAGP + Bronchitis.

Start matched on the large roof jug and move out to a large sharp side pull. Tag a gaston with your left hand and make a big move to a good side pull. From here work through some underlings, up and around the bulge to gain a good edge before gaining the 'glory' jug. Traverse up and left to top out onto the slabby boulder at the caves entrance. An absolute classic of the area!

Start as for Ukrainian Dolphin, traverse the cave lip on a series of jugs, crimps, pockets and slopers. Enjoy a knee bar rest at the half way point if needed. Carry on traversing the lip and finish on the Locked Down finishing hold.

Start as per sloper groper sit into the stand start, delicate mantle up from here.

ABST + Pneumonia.

Starts looking out of the West facing exit deep in the cave. Start on crimpy undercling and traverse right. Finish 5m right on high angled large pocket

Stand start with right hand on arete and left hand on undercling. Pull on and make a move to the top. Mantle. The bloc the boulder is sitting on is out! Sit start available at a much higher grade.

Burden on Society + Two Coughs reverse + Warm Up Left.

An area classic and definitely worth the walk. Named for the graffiti adorning the wall at its start. Start matched on good horizontal and slap up the deceivingly slopey arête.