Ascents in Stathams Boulders having Beta

Nice sequence, not hard but needs a bot of thinking

Had a bit of play in the sun after work

Easier for taller people but lots of different options in the beta

Very good. Good moves on good holds. Big one at the end to a sharp hold though. Don’t miss or hesitate or you’ll cut your hand off!

Can do everything except that crux catch. Will bring tape next time.

Fall isn’t that bad.

After slicing my finger completely open yesterday on the first attempt i didnt bitch out of latching the crux hold, I had to completely change my beta. Fucking big move, props to Woody for the FA

Start hold appears very loose. Large visible crack up whole left side, flexes about 4mm when I bear down. Bailed.

7A and a much better problem if you dont use the beta from the video......

Fun one move wonder

An absolute gem! Really cool tension-dependent moves. Gave it a good flash burn, but it took a few more attempts to figure out how to keep the tension with the heel hook. It's morpho- I'm decently tall, but even for me, the big reach to the crimp felt like it was close to my max span. Would easily feel a grade harder if you were short. It's a hard one to grade, but V7 seems about right.

Nice like , pretty sick little Spot

Had a little look at this today. Just off the sick bed and was in full sun so really just a look. Seems really cool. Excited to give it a proper go.

Felt a fair bit harder than the hacksaw and a few more moves too but not sure I could grade it harder.

I did the first ascent of this in 1994

Awesome, flowy climb, cool moves, I found it to be a bit harder than the right hand variant thouh

Such a cool boulder problem! Kudos to Woody on getting psyched for it and making it possible. Start low on right arete and left side crimp before Gaston and slapping up the arete. It's all over once you gain the arete over the lip.

Soft, but i'll take the grade. Had to send 3 times due to probably incorrect top beta and minor dab :'(

Feeling the holds. Couldn’t get comfy with a pad set up and skin felt a little soft so didn’t persevere.

Awesome. Worked the sequence and gained the second gaston.

Working the moves. Feels like it’ll go. Was oozing moisture and sweat today at 8am in the full sun. Not ideal :p Palm flapper sent me home.

Can do in two sections. Had issues with palm flapper not being healed, not having enough pads to protect each section, and starting in the heat and full sun. Will come back with each of these resolved and see what happens.

Really good work put on this. Got it in two parts. Will send next session for sure.

Beautiful.

Beautiful.

Beautiful.

Mega classic, great quarry boulder.

2nd for good measure

Went back on got the proper V7 start. Woo!

I did the first ascent of this in 1994

Maybe on the soft side, but 5 feels about right. Enjoyable climb!

Had to fight hard for this one. I spent half the session wondering what the hell I was doing wrong to make it so hard for myself. Figured out the beta in the end.

Beautiful aesthetic climbing. Top out appears to be the crux. High fall but very clean fall.

Worked the moves. Got the left hand across and left foot across, fall whilst trying to bump up left.

Progress! Can consistently and without too much trouble get out left, Bump right hand up, get body across and toe out left, Bump left up, Bump right up again now which feels quite good. Then I feel in a solid stance at eye level with the finish holds. Slapped and Controlled the left sloper but need to quickly get the right up too to be able to climb through. Will be desperate and scary at the height.

Really solid to the top out. Even that feels like it’s solidly within grasp. Just need to execute. Not sure about the grade?

Moments of bliss.

Ive wanted to climb this since I first saw it a few years back, huge crew send today with 5 of us getting the ticks.

Made better progress using the heel hook instead of the toe smear. Had a goon burn, slapping close to the top of the arete. A few more sessions.