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Routes as sport in Statham's Quarry

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Showing all 53 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Michel Angelo Walls
23 Agent de France

Stick clip first bolt, climb spike hanging out of ground, and gain wall and top on loose rock.

Sport 18m, 4
22 Chain Reaction

Start 2m left of Real Life Ambition up a series of ledges and a hard crux move. Rap off chains at top.

Sport 20m, 4
23 Chain Link

A link from chain reaction to Munji the Soul Stealer.

Climb Chain Reaction, pull through crux then move right and finish up final moves of Munji the Soul Stealer.

A much more Satisfying finishto CR even if it is harder. Probably adds a grade.

5 bolts plus anchors

FA: Shannon Reid & Brenton Armitage, 5 Sep 2020

Sport 5
22 Munji the Soul Stealer

Start at base of chain reaction, head right up the short arete onto face and follow the bolts. Don’t stray too far left at bottom or top. 4 bolts and anchors.

FA: Shannon, 13 Aug 2020

Sport 20m, 4
21 Real Life Ambition

A Perth test piece at the grade. Climb the series of corner flakes to some glorious final moves. Hangers required.

Sport 15m, 6
25 Carbon Dogs

Start as No Ordinary Determination, but traverse left and go up arete to reach anchors.

Maint: 15 Oct 2021

Sport 15m, 5
21 No Ordinary Determination

Overhung line 5m right of Real Life Ambition.

Maint: 15 Oct 2021

Sport 15m, 5
16 Mourning
Sport 20m
22 Czech Mate

Start up large jugs on to ledge and traverse right to bulge. Find bolt (hard to spot around corner). Difficult climbs leads u\you up and left on slab to anchor.

Sport 18m, 5
26 Chickens

Much harder than 26. Apparently holds have broken off. Probably harder than 28, possibly much harder...

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/stathams-development/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/chickens-26/

Sport 18m
22 The Oubliette

The line left of “Left Lateral Port-Side Smidgen Winkler” and right of “Chickens”. Start just left of LLPSSW at a fixed hanger with a pleasantly balancy move of some rubble. Use a biner on first fixed hanger to limit fall

Then continue left and up past 6 more bolts with great varied climbing. Be careful not to fall into the oubliette and risk ensnarement by the goblin monkey boy. Classy moves all the way, especially the gaston mantle! The 3rd bolt could be tricky to clip at the grade and some may argue it is superfluous. But a flakey hold fell off after bolting so it changed the holds a bit.

Sport 15m, 6
21 Left Lateral Portside Smidgen Winkler

Don't be fooled by the grade. This would make an excellent onsight. Smear like hell to second bolt and continue up big holds in flake and left to anchors.

Sport 25m
24 All the Young Fascists

2nd bolt can be tricky to clip if you are short. A crucial hold has been lost: http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/stathams-incident/ making this climb even harder. Anchors on top allow one to rap down to the climb's ancors and establish a top rope.

FA: N. Gledhill, 2007

Sport 15m, 6
26 Chips 'n' Dips

Thin climbing up grey line. Technical from start to finish. Proper classic!

FA: Roark Muhlen-Schultze, 1990

Sport 20m, 5
25 Batchain Puller

Start 2m right of Chips 'n' Dips at junction of grey and orange wall. Strenuous climbing up overhang

Sport 20m, 7
27 Syndrome

Start on left boulder, delicately traverse right and up toward anchors, can top out for extra style.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-route-stathams-quarry/

Set: G, T Wall & J McMurray, 2014

FA: JM Gething, 2014

Sport 7m, 3
25 Bullseye

Stasrt 2m right of Bastchain Puller. Good rests after every move but still not soft for the grade. Finishes at anchor for Hammer and Tongs.

Sport 20m
25 Hammer and Tongs

Climb up flake system to where it blanks out. Big moves get you to a slopey ledge. Strenuous, delicate moves up sloping blocks, followed by a difficult mantel get you to the anchors where you can finally relax.

FA: Derek Toulalan, 1994

Sport 25m, 8
25 Scoot Scoot Bandicoot

Snuffle up Hammer and Tongs. Grunt like a bogan past the first hard move, then scoot scoot like a bandicoot up and right. Eventually, you’ll make it to the foodbag located at the jug. Wipe the crumbs from your nose and scurry past the last bolt to the lower off.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/stathams-new-route-yay/

FFA: K. Swain & N. Gledhill, 2010

Sport 25m
25 Circuit Breaker

Two possible starts – up ‘Short Circuit’ to the 4th bolt, then step left on steep juggy wall and follow bolts up through thin, left tending crack on overhanging face (crux). Join with and finish up the last two bolts and lower-off of ‘Scoot Scoot Bandicoot’. Alternatively start up ‘Shorter Circuit’ and cross over ‘Short Circuit’ at bolt 4, 5 or 6!

FA: J. Hollingworth, 26 Jun 2016

Sport 10
17 Short Circuit Direct

Start as for SC, but then deviate from the original line to the left. Many jugs, couple of cruxes.

FA: R. Weiter, 2011

Sport 27m, 10
15 X Short Circuit

This is an X-rated climb following the weakness diagonally left. The pro is bad at best

Sport 27m
20 Shorter Circuit

A harder alternate start to ‘Short Circuit Direct’ starting 4m further right. Go up the weakness in the detached mega flake. Move left, then up the thin flakey crack until it intersects with the arete to clip the 5th bolt of ‘Short Circuit Direct’.

FA: J. Hollingworth & N. Mertens, Dec 2014

Sport 24m, 12
31 Zombie Man
Sport 25m
30 Ersatz

Probably unclimbable these days.

Sport 25m
Central Slab Area
16 Blah, Blah, Blah
Sport 18m, 5
19 Sink the Boots in

starting at base of blah blah blah head up and right on the slab to the first hanger. follow past 7 bolts to anchors of twenty easy steps. a little tough but well protected.

FA: Quinn Giles-Reid & Shannon, 26 Apr

Sport 20m, 7
17 Twenty Easy Steps
Sport 20m, 5
16 Mount Everest
Sport 18m, 6
11 The Grooves
Sport 25m
16 Ant Nation
Sport 27m
16 Innominate
Sport 28m
16 Ant Attack
Sport 24m, 5
14 Formicidae
Sport 24m
18 Strider
Sport 25m
19 Shrapnel
Sport 20m
Quarry Right Side
14 Orca

Orca bolt-line starts to the left of the tree, up a short scramble step, 3m. Not at the same level as the start of Plummeting Penguins. The upper section of the wall is decayed granite not suitable for bolting. A piton has been added to the line at the top. Protection is now 6 bolts and 1 piton. Committing face climbing with sustained moves. Needs 5 bolt plates and 6 QuickDraws. No lower offs need gear to anchor at the top, P bolts close by.

FA: 2013

Sport 25m, 6
15 Plummeting Penguins

3m left of Penguin Master. See Statham's Quarry Mini Guide by Neil Gledhill.

Sport 27m, 6
13 Middle Line

A long route on chossy rock.

Sport 31m, 8
13 Novice Penguins Sport 27m, 8
16 Penguin Master
Sport 25m
18 Carrot Master
Sport 15m, 5
22 Quarry Man
Sport 15m, 4
15 Lifestyle Refugees

The second bolt is "fat", standard bolt plates don't fit.

Sport 20m, 6
17 Centrepiece

Route is now bolted (6-May-2014)

Sport 20m, 5
17 Morning Glory

Move left after the last bolt.

Sport 20m, 6
23 Stolen Glory

Requires some finesse, if you’re clumsy it could be easy 23. A good climb, given you’re at Stathams quarry !

Start between Morning Glory and Bonk Night out. Up past 5 bolts to a lower off above the mini arete/corner. There are 2 other bolts to the right of this line below the first bolt of bonk night out. We did not place them and we didn’t write on the rock near the loweroff.

FA: Neil Gledhill

Sport 15m, 5
23 Bonk Night Out
Sport 20m
23 Bonking Penguins
Sport 18m
18 Kid Glory

Climb Kid Rock all the way to the anchor, and then just keep traversing left to the anchors of Stolen Glory, clipping one of the bolts of the anchors of Bonking Penguins along the way. Fun traverse at the top may increase the grade of Kid Rock a bit, but beware of how dirty and lose the top is — make sure the belayer has a helmet.

FA:

Sport 14m, 8
17 Kid Rock
Sport 14m, 6
17 Quickie
Sport 10m
26 Hands Off My Bolts
Sport 20m

Showing all 53 routes.

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