Ascents in Alfords Point

look at me factor!

look at me factor!

TR tick, never made it back for the Trad lead

Bottom moves done, need to make an effort to get back this week after work for the tick.

Pre placed siege !!

Will have to come back for a pink point or red point attempt on Trad! Loved both the crux sections.

... now to find the gear

Punchy moves after the first gear which is a bit tricky to get in a their are no feet at this point

It's had its TRAD ascents - Macca should retro bolt it to make some controversy.

Had to climb up and down twice to get the right cam size for the first small break. Rarely climb trad, but it was great to plug some gear, even an offset nut. Not 21 relative to the climbs at this crag.

Wow it turns out mikl can still put up a bold route when he feels like it!

Really really cool little wall, if only it was longer. Big moves, terrible feet, perfect crimps, groundfall potential and shaky gear at the crux. I want this headpoint.

Gear beta: 0.75 to 0.5 camalot for the crux break (preferably something almost in the middle, check Friend sizes?). 0.75 to 1 camalot for the top break. And maybe a bouldering pad!

Really enjoyed this route. The cams in the breaks are good and the move from the first break to the second on crimps is pretty tricky. Well worth a climb.

Three top rope solo laps. Gear looks good but holds in the horizontal breaks might need a brush.

Note to self: Find a belayer and bring a rack next time

Not the most ethical ascent, had choreographed the moves and gear before hand. Almost had a moment in the no fall zone on the crux after placing the first pro which is a small cam in a flaring horizontal crack.

Respect to those who have onsighted or will onsight this 'calm as a cucumber' approach and hard to read style climb. The climb has an assortment of potential crimps to chose from while standing on almost nothing.

Gear used: 0.4# cam protecting the crux move and 0.75# cam protecting the 'I have survived the crux' move. Rest was another three pieces of finger to hand size cams.

so stoked to have finally jumped on this puppy - felt like how the peak district looks, sewing up breaks, with a little less groundfall potential. plugging the first 3 cams has gotta be the crux - crux before gear, in the clear

Too scared to lead it. Reminds me of those horror UK grit stone groundfall videos. First 5m are class though

Sussing out the first few moves, gear seems pretty solid (.3 and .4 in first two breaks), will come back for the send.

Morning session before work. Gear is plentiful.

knowning what goes where really saves ya locking off for 5000 minutes placing one thousand ok cams before pulling the crux move, crucially facilitating the 'rotpunkt'

technically speaking - first 21 on trad, but that's just a one move wonder so not really counting it. those breaks were dirty and sandy - had to do a bit of clean-up before placing gear

Doing the whole thing in Trad works well if you are ok running it out a little bit up the edge of the cave. Extension up top was fun. Until my trademark rope drag kicked in and my knot got caught on the lip and I flipped about like a tranquilised seal on the top out.

Questionable the "Arapiles style" rock. I pulled on a crimp and literally crumbled on me LOL

really fucking hard needs anothwer bolt up high

Nice on today's conditions, it would be a bit harder holding on to those slopers past the 2nd bolt on a warm day.

Adventure sport climbing? Got to love the bird of prey stance on the edge of the diving board.

One of my favorite for the crag. I belayed Bundy on the bouldery start a few months back, but don't remember any of his moves...it's super straight forward, just burly. Claiming the onsight.

Mikl's flake engineering is gold !

Nice little project to tick next time. Fun bouldery crux

Went right at first bolt, made it a faaaaar bit a harder then it needed to be... Nice roof. Juggy.

There was a little bit of swearing going on, I think I got sandbagged.

good start weird middle and fun finish