Ascents in Bangor Blocs

In what world is this V0 or a good warmup, felt like trying this had a higher chance of doing a pulley than anything else I got on

To tired at the end of the session

Toe hook beta seems to be the go, now I just need to learn how to toe hook without needing a power spot

Spent all session telling Kez his beta was wrong. After a few hours of falling off i was using all of Kez’s beta. Next go for sure.

Exactly

Very thin, and needed a bit of a brush on the foot smears. The high flake (right side, below topout) is about to pop, take care or epoxy.

Best warmup, and a cool little start sequence.

Reach dependent, very forgettable.

Totally my style, ditch the cute moves and thug it through the underclings, unless you're under 178 cm. I was messing around up high, and fell off like an idiot. 2nd time through the crux was more of a fight.

Line of the crag, burly and straightforward.

Tough for the grade and sequency.

definitely a reach. had to put two pads under to get the first hold.

greeeaaat committing slabbing. feels a little bit spookier than the v4 as you are stepping across rather than straight up. for me at least. and not that much easier than the v4.

funky start which is the hardest move.

really cool. having the top dialled in from doing the v1 first was helpful. really thin stuff to gain the bigger flake up top

big bling slap over the lip was shutting me down. maybe when i am fresh. a great route though. the mantle move is worth doing by itself.

A fun low commitment intro to the high slabs next door.

Was trying for the direct route staying in the middle of the blunt arete. But as you move high and left the landing gets bad and the holds disappear. Maybe I will do it on a day I feel bolder. The escape out right at the top wasn't much easier, just a better landing. The start was really cool if you stay in the middle, slopey compression moves and heel hooks.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpdFK5YBXUN/

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CtlNQiEPFmp/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==