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Routes in Party Palace Cave for selected grade

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Showing all 18 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Boulder
{US} V3 My Julie

Start feet where two dots are. Right hand on marked sharp feature undercling, left hand where red dot is at chalked jug. Follow the line, feet get tricky when bumping for the top out. The rock felt great! There is a couple of variations where you can cut feet for fun. Check out the climb on instagram Edward Lind

FA: Edward Lind

FA: 26 Jun 2021

Boulder 5m Party Palace Cave
V4 ROCK!

Highballish extension to My Julie. Mantle up nose and then step up right onto airy face without using left face. Named after the huge rock that pulled as first ascentionist pulled over the very top. The rest of the rock seems alright though

FA: Tom Bes, Jul 2021

Boulder 6m Party Palace Cave
V4 My Julie direct finish

Instead of finishing on nose feature, mantle up and head directly out up licheny face.

FA: Tom Bes, 2021

Boulder 5m Party Palace Cave
V4 To My Lichen

Start in the cave with feet at the back wall and hands on the undercling rail. The bottom ledges in the back of the cave are out. Work the line between Side To Side and Back To Front using toe hook(s) in the start-hold underclings, and make your way to the nose. Gather your energy and do The Change Up all the way to the finish. Pumpy and endurance sapping

FA: Earl Paras, 7 Aug 2021

Boulder 9m Party Palace Cave
V3 So Unnatural

Same start as So Natural. Instead of going up to the top, traverse left towards the start of The Change Up.

FA: Earl Paras, 7 Aug 2021

Boulder 5m Party Palace Cave
V4 R Return of Gladys

We like to take the party all the way. Traverse the whole palace. Start at same jugs for S2S, To my lichen etc with feet on shelf below jug. This climb is to use only the roof no low feet. There's a great rail so live up the toe hooks. Run hands along the rail until coming to the features of My Julie, Side 2 side and My Lichen. From here cross through the ceiling pinches towards the other side of what I will call the bowl of the cave (Open ceiling section where you can look upwards). There is a really nice sloper jug left of the horn where you'll want some rest. Grab a heel hook to and take few seconds. From here continue left and high to a finger rail above what is a very flaky shelf. Please take care of this shelf it's beautiful yet brittle. You may use feet on it but select the thicker corners of the shelf. Traverse along this finger rail until passing the flaky shelf and top out between the two features on low roof. Pray for your skin.

Set: Edward Lind, 15 Aug 2021

FA: Jeremi Campese, 15 Aug 2021

Boulder 10m Party Palace Cave
V4 R Rick n Morty

Rock up. Look at Tortuga to the left of this line covered in moss thinking wtf is this. See some pretty cool looking mono pockets. Brain says shove your finger in there cam it from a left hand lock off gaston to a heinous off camber two finger sloper for the grade. Maintain lock left hand in gaston, raise left foot high to break in wall below left hand and effectively pump to high left hand jug. Feels fucking great. Top out to see this wicked looking tree. Life's good.

Set: Edward Lind & Jeremi Campese, 8 Aug 2021

FA: Jeremi Campese, 8 Aug 2021

Boulder Party Palace Cave
V4 Glad it's us!

Endurance traverse starting from side to side jug. Pre requisite climb for Gladys. Topo says it all

FA: Jeremi Campese, 1 Aug 2021

Set: Edward Lind & Jeremi Campese, 1 Aug 2021

Boulder 6m Party Palace Cave
V3 Unknown

Unknown problem about 3m right of CF. Straight up. Bad landing.

FA: 2012

Boulder 5m Party Palace Cave
V3 So Natural

As So close. Keep going up the arete, then straight to the top.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Boulder 5m Party Palace Cave
V3/4 The Change Up

Jump up to holds on top of nose 4m left of previous climbs. Traverse break right, then up arete, and straight (as for end of So Natural).

FA: 2012

Boulder 3m Party Palace Cave
V3 Side to Side

From big hold in back right of cave, traverse left along undercling, then straight out along line till nose. Go under nose, finishing with hands on top.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Boulder 3m Party Palace Cave
V4 Change up Side to Side

As for Side to side, but continue on through The Change Up. Tiring.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Boulder 7m Party Palace Cave
V4 Back to Front

As for Side to Side in big hold. Move out to next undercling rail. Then left to jugs, finishing on nose.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Boulder 3m Party Palace Cave
V3 Jimmy Loves Bekky

Starting about 3m left of the nose, sit start on small feature at left end of scoop. Right and out nose, finishing on front side of it.

FA: 2012

Boulder 4m Party Palace Cave
V3 Don't Touch the Red Button!

As for JLB. Follow line out right, but move upward through scoop and keep going to the top. Careful... Named after the red hold that crumbled before the first ascent. It wasn't the only one...

FA: 2012

Boulder 4m Party Palace Cave
V3 Tortuga

Up to the tortoise heads for a top out.

FA: Postman, 12 Dec 2017

Boulder 4m Party Palace Cave
V3 Dark Sunrise

Crouch start on ledge, with hands on underclings in cave. Top out is a bit mossy but otherwise fine enough.

Maint: Earl Paras

Boulder 4m Party Palace Cave

Showing all 18 routes.

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