Routes in North East for selected grade

Nice finger crack (gear) to ledge, then three bolts up the corner and arete. DBB.

A long abandoned Danny Ng project - recently revived after a scrub, and the addition of a couple of extra bolts and an anchor (located at the beginning of the blankness)…PS there’s no glory jug!!

Climb the detached pillar (stick clip recommended), and onto the face via x2 U’s and x2 carrots. DBB. The originally conceived finish can still be attempted (take a blue walnut, or a .4 camalot) to the SOTT anchor, and is an open project. Go for your life…

Above Skidrow Buttress. Easily accessed from the carpark.

Second crack from the L

Bridge your way up the thin pillar on the right hand side of the ledge until its possible to traverse left into the ripper finger crack splitting the top of the buttress. DBB

the next line downstream. the first ascensionists abseiled from the top and set up a hanging belay from the first jug. They proceeded to stand on the lap of the belayer to bypass the crux and lead to the top

2 bolts. Small gear to DBB

Obvious clean finger crack in dark coloured rock. Good finger locking directly up the crack. Harder if you avoid bridging onto the hanging arete on the left. DBB added Jan 2016.

The obvious clean offwidth on the buttress set back slightly from the track. Good climbing which actually doesn't require too much wide crack technique. DBB

Rappel from anchor located at the base of dreams of Broken Glass (down and right of lady midnight). Rappel to hanging belay. Climb out the shallow corner finger crack. Best done at low tide.

Start up cowardice and instead of going around the roof go left onto the face where there is one bolt and then natural pro. Reachy

Direct bolted finish to Depressed Fracture

Bolted finish to Paranoid

Right hand side of detached pillar - #3 cams to start.

One of the best trad routes on the Sunny Side! The prominent crack splitting the arete on the upstream face of the gully. Trends left into gully and traverses right using jugs through rooflet, finishing up crack to belay ledge. DBB

Second route on the left end of the upper cliff. 20m approach pitch up the tree/gully (about grade 8) to the base of the beautiful finger crack with DBB. 15m up finger crack to ledge (DBB), don't belay here, instead continue for another 15m directly up the bolted arete to the top. Rap chains on the bolted belays. Abseil from chains at the top of Mills Route.

Finger crack on LHS of lower tier.

The central crack line of the three starting from a left trending diagonal or laybacking the crack

Up the face past two bolts as for Road to Moonarie, then continue up the nice crack.

The thin crack splitting the buttress. Very obvious when walking along the shady side track. The original name and first ascent details seem to have been lost in the mists of time. The crack takes good gear, or could reasonably be protected with a couple of boulder pads to cover up the talus.

Directly up the face and right hand arete. Bring a medium cam for the horizontal break between the second and third bolt. DBB

On seperate downstream buttress. 2 bolts and DBB

Trad corner, broken by a ledge.

Finger crack up corner.

Thin corner R of Chimney

A huge girdle starting on the far left and following the obvious weakness all the way right.

Left of HoG. Start in chimney, and left onto bolted face. Tree belay.

Climb the face on horizontal breaks and flat holds, between Crystal Laces and Stanley Pub. Chopped bolts.

A rare remaining trad route - up through the bulges

Thin seam into chimney, which needs a bit of a clean.

A total classic, one of the best pitches on the mountain and well worth the walk. Starts just left of unclimbed fused corner. Up the groove, pull over rooflet with the help of huge hidden jugs. Continue briefly up corner above, then make an exposed traverse right across bottomless corner to a big flake (crux). Continue up groove with spaced but adequate protection to the top.

The thin crack then twin finger cracks on the left hand side of the buttress. Takes very good small wires and cams. One bolt near the top.

The short bolted arete just downstream of Kiwi Fruit Jam Gully. No anchor

The obvious diagonal crack line on the right hand end of the cliff. DBB.

Classic corner, but for many the chimney is the crux!

1. 15m (18) The slick offwidth to the top of pillar eventually opens up into a chimney with some gear at the back. Some people place runners in the first 5m of Ramandan to protect the start of this pitch.

2. 55m (20) The corner crack is a stellar line, follow all the way to a big ledge just below the top. Hanging belay possible if you only have a 50m rope.

3. 6m (17) Short hand crack to the top

Up crack/flake to immediate L of Sawsea, moving left to join Joy at overlap.

Start in the yellow corner, up to break, finish on arete. Bolted lower off.

2m right of International Brigade. Straight up the face with minimal pro.

Perfect jamming up the magnificent corner on the 2nd pitch.

Bridge the fused corner and then nice finger crack above.

Beautiful slabby arete. Reaching the first carrot bolt is a little scary. Gear anchor. (retro-bolted by Danny Ng)

On the small cliff 40m right of Airfix - on upper right tier. Pocketed finger crack.

The LH crack several lines to the left.

Fun, technical climbing up the thin crack line starting from the sloping ledge. There is a good small wire (RP or peanut) to protect the balancy high step move near the bottom.

Extreme left face. Originally a solo.

The obvious overhanging offwidth located immediately above the first 'pitch' of Skidrow.

Thin diagonal crack rising right of Missing Josiah to the arete.

Amazing arete on left end of amphitheatre. Starts on orange rock and follows juggy arete and crack to the top.

Blank corner with tree part way up on RHS

The Furthest line left starting on a narrow ledge. The arete right of the top of SOTNC and left ASU. Exposed and technical face and arete climbing

Thin crack with a slight overhang to start. Finger pocket starting hold into the thin crack at the top.

50m right of Caprichos Crag. Face with thin seams in the middle, widening to a finger crack.