Routes as trad in East

A moderate ground-up way to access the Boneyard all on Trad, mossy; but the abseil traffic has cleaned it up considerably. Starts at the rap line, just left of the nose of the original 'Boneyard Route'.

1. 30m 18. First pitch climbs the rap line / corner taking the R fork for the last 3m to the rap chain.

2. 30m 18. Traverse R for 5m (no pro, maybe anchor off the rap line!?), then straight up thin crack just around the nose. Move left to corner, then finish up mossy wall (poor pro).

Climb Crayfish Crack to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts rightwards via. some very creative movement to finish at Beamans anchors.

The exiting moves now succumb to an extreme reach as some holds have disappeared since the first ascent.

At the very top of The Gonk is a spell binding corner. From the top of The Gonk rappel from a double bolt belay onto a ledge which is the top of The Life of Meaning. The crux is well protected by cams and the second half of the route is sparsely protected with small wires and potentially ball nuts if you have them.

The line 2m left of FI through the open book feature after half height. No gear after half height.

14 going on 17 The easiest route to the summit. Bring a standard rack of cams from micro to #2 along with a small selection of nuts (micro to large) and roughly 10 alpine draws. Expect the placements to be average and the climbing to be around grade 17 on average rock quality with high ledge fall potential. To find the start scramble up into the large, dark east notch and abseil 10-15m down the other side to a hanging belay on the spiky shrubs (bring a spare sling for this rap point) P1 - Climb the mossy wall up the easiest weakness, trending left and mounting a few tricky mantles. Follow the line of easiest weakness up the jam crack (passing old piton) and into difficult vegetated mantle. Build belay here. P2 - Scramble up diagonal slope to the left (15m) P3 - Up the easy but barely secured boulders, belay from a large boulder and single bolt on the far side of the top. A 60m rope is enough to rap back down into the notch (30mish)

Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête. After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête.

The clean, sustained crack left of Swash. Access: Rap into hanging belay 2m above water at the base of bottomless corner Up initial corner, traverse right under the roof and pull into splitter crack bisecting the face. Thin jamming leads to a short technical corner to finish.

Wide but straightforward offwidth a few meters right of Windjammer. 2x 6 cams helpful.

The crack with the bushes at the base. Up this offwidth (crux) to the ledge, continue up the chimney which has two corner cracks in the back. Layback, good gear, nice moves, easy to throw a top rope over for teaching crack moves.

Climb the block to gain the base of a rightward slanting crack, which starts on the right side of the ledge in Chill Your Beans. Possible to stay in the crack or hug the flake. Large cams helpful.

The off-width. Apparently, "it had to be done". The climbing itself maybe even worse than the name, but you'll have to climb it to find out. Don't expect much gear.

Steep corner on R. Hard in the middle ... maybe more than 20.

Start as for You're a Towel and follow the obvious horizontal hand crack left below the top of the boulder. Good jamming with minimal feet. Take small wires and micro cams for the anchor.

On the South Park boulders, in the middle of the three biggest is one for the belayers. Up the awkward handcrack to finish up black water runnel. Tape up!

Climb the easiest to access, slightly undervert crack, which widens to the top. Good hand/foot jamming, great gear.

Start up the shallow crack around the arete right of the Deep Water chimmney. Follow this to mantle onto the spike/ledge on the arete (crux), then follow the crack just left of the arete. Trend right once you touch into Deep Water. Best climbing past the tower to belay from the top.

Start up Aspro Pink but head left into Deep water. Fist jam around the corner and traverse the obvious crack that splits the buttress, grab a few limpets for later on the traverse and Continue as for Sink or Swim.

Start in the corner between the chimney to the left and the end of the wall to the right. Follow the obvious line above to meet Apline at the end. Less protection in upper part

L/H variant of Ballet. This variation finishes up a final hand crack section, about 6 metres left of Ballet final head-wall - Variations of Ballet exist to climb this wonderful line which is characterised by a thin crack that gradually disappears. At an obvious 'undercling' either move right towards blunt arete, or left face climb to gain a jug, or ledge above. All are exciting and well worth your effort. Put on your Ballet shoes and get dancing!

Follow the hands and off-hands to a tree. Up to the chains. Would be good if it was just the crack.

Layback and Jam up to the offwidth. Up crack and face to chains.

Left of The great unknown. Offwidth to body chimney, protectable on micro cams, from bd #0.3 down

Impressive corner crack. FC scratched into rock on right wall

brilliant jam crack on the right side of the tier, thin hands with occasional good hands. DBB

corner crack R of Amundson

A fun, mostly trad multi that extends Underestimated all the way to the Supernaut Ledge. Will make an excellent alternative to Tomorrow's Dream if you have done that a few times.

1. 25m (22) As for Underestimated to the belay.

2. 20m (16) Lovely trad pitch up the obvious right leaning crack. Good gear and fun moves the whole way. Belay at double bolts on ledge.

3. 35m (21) Hard start off ledge past bolt and key 0.4 cam then intriguing face climbing on excellent gear and passing one more bolt to double bolts on ledge.

4. 20m (18) Funky, fully bolted slab pitch to the Supernaut Ledge.

Grunt up perfect offwidth to body chimney, void of any cheater holds

Hand to offwidth crack, slightly easier than offwidth to the right.

Chimney up for two meters, to pefect hand crack in corner. Classic jamming for the grade. On the left side of the gully 20 m north of of absent friends buttress

In the gully on the left of absent friends main buttress. Hand crack which gets thin and flared before reaching a ledge and up second hand crack.

As For Stud city until the obvious overlap is reached. Continue up the corner left of the overlap until a bolt on the arete can be seen. Clip the bolt and wildly move around the arete. Another bolt then DBB. Rap here (57m) or optional third pitch, mixed with 2 bolts. To descend, walk right past SC to regular abseil point.

Right most finger crack, with tips through to thin hand.

Bottom as CC12, on top stay on right wall into offwidth section at the end

start 2m left of the chimney and follow line straight up. dirty scramble on top

On the first buttress climb boldly up thin flake to a peg in the break, small cam also, then hard over bulge.

On the main area 50 metres further south along the trail, climb the hanging groove.

Up the crack.

An incredible and inspiring diagonal line that packs a punch. Sustained jamming and laybacks all the way. Micro cams, finger sized cams and small to medium wires. Take a #4 and #5 BD cam for the belay plus a few cordelettes to extend the anchor if you want to top rope it.

Easy climbing on great rock. Follow the crack line up starting on the platform just above sea level. Solo first ascent, but appears that there would be good gear for a trad lead.

Excellent continuous crack climbing with a few face features. Solo first ascent but it looks like the gear would be good.

Climb the splitter block. Excellent rock. Solo FA.

Up the center of the first Rock. The thin crack with an overhanging start.

On the Second Rock, the thin crack a meter to the right of the off-width.

At the right hand end of the Second Rock is a cosmetic RP crack. Up to this, then jugs at the top.

Start beneath the obvious featured arete. Climb the RHS of the arete until the first rooflet. Turn the arete to the LHS and continue up the diagonal to the top.

As for LSP but continue up the RHS to climb through the two rooflets and mount the jug. Sew up crack with your smallest wires before teetering up the arete using side pulls and chicken heads.

A bit bold in places but worthwhile climbing. Stay as much on the face between the cracks as possible. A slight detour around the bush has better protection and avoids having to climb through a bush.

The obvious arête opposite of island zawn left of ANDFKG. Ends at the rap tree

Up crack until you can step onto the slab and climb this with the help of the arete past 4 bolt.s

up the wall just left of the offwidth of ISAICGO. Follow the twin cracks past the X (crux) to gain the ledge. Follow the groove on the left to gain the top of the cliff

offwidth

100m north of the main buttress is a #3 and #4 size flake crack with an incut start. Tree and gear belay

The freestanding pillar on the northern end of the cliff line. Start in the chimney on the left of the front face to gain a slab. Slab right to a steep crack and pull through this to again gain a slab. Trend left along a break to an arete and summit the pillar

On the north-easte side visible when coming from Sleepy Bay. Hand crack to offwidth past a small bonsai at the start and a bigger one mid route. Belay on tree at top and/ or scramble down gully to the left

Variant to Bonsai avoiding the offwidth section

The crack to the R of DB. Belay as for that route then scramble off north

10m left of FV. Good climbing up the obvious rightwards diagonal crack up to a good stance. Step left onto a detached block and climb up the arete and around the bushes. The second half is poorly protected, dirty and ledgy. Belay off the rap tree.

A very nice well-protected slab route accessed by abseil from the top of the Main Wall - a worthy companion to Winning Streaks. Follow the Skyline Traverse track past the top of the Suzuki Complex to the top of the Main Wall. Where the track levels off, and shortly before the top of Japhlion, a squeeze through a slot gives access to a short leaf filled gully on the sea side with a gum tree growing out of it. Down this for about 10m to a scrubby ledge that leads back left 20m towards Sleepy Bay and two U-bolts on the wall above. Abseil 80m (1x25m/1x35m/1x25m) off double U bolt anchors to a small stance at the base of a clean crack on the slab, above the steepening, where you can build a trad anchor.

1. 25m 17 Climb the clean crack up the slab with good gear to a double bolt anchor at a small stance.

2. 35m 17 Follow the line of bolts up the polished water streak to a double bolt anchor on a scrubby ledge. Fully bolted with a couple of optional gear placements.

3. 25m 17 Climb the slab past two bolts to a cam placement in a flake, step left and follow the well protected corner to a tricky little slab then the top.

On the south eastern face of the big rock. Climb the finger crack and bulge.

A fun traverse above the waves. Starting and finishing on dry land. Start on the north western corner of the big rock. Climb onto the boulder then step across onto the big rock using a big undercut flake. Traverse left along the break, under the roof and around the corner until an awkward step down onto a sloping ledge. From here step down onto the boulders, a couple of meters to the right of 'If Fingers Were Xylophones'. Well-protected with small and medium cams.

A good route. Climb the vertical seam to the break, place bomber cams, then make tricky moves over the bulge onto the top.

Just south of Gorky's Zygotic Mynchki, climb the short wall then the seam splitting the orange and black bulge.

The crack just right of Yeah.

Classic, The first part climbs a groove recessed into the arête with a couple of finger pockets and well spaced hand holds providing exquisite climbing. Lower off from bolts.

the best looking crack third line R of the arête of the upper amphitheatre. The climb is sustained off-hand to fist crack but thins towards the top.

Great climbing up the diagonal crack going left across the face from Limp Wrist. Clip the first bolt of Limp Wrist, then up into the corner below a small roof, then spectacularly left across the wall to the half-way ledge of an off-width crack, finish up crack

Right of the bolted face called Limp Wrist is a powerful looking crack, starting as a hand-crack then getting thinner towards the top. Challenging and worthwhile.

First route you come across when descending into the crag. obvious from the large doorway style box at it’s start, has some intricate gear placements at the start, and as the climbing eases the gear lessens. cool movement down low, a little bold in spots

You carried the big gear this far - may as well? The right trending fist crack faced before starting the scramble to White Stack Upper. Actually the same crack as Tashtego, but on the far side of the rock. When you reach the top of the wide fist crack, head left and up past the bush to top out. Climbs better then it looks, 2x 4s or 5s recommended, grade may vary depending on the size of your mitts.

On the face to the right of Die Hard is a seam up to a ledge, climb the seam with a nice finger jam crux to gain the ledge. Once on the ledge pull a couple of moves through the chubby finger crack roof.

Scramble easily up the ramp to a ledge, then finish on a few nice moves up the short corner crack

Start in right leaning crack and finger traverse around to the prow, continue up finger crack to ledge, then easily up unprotected face on good holds

Up onto ledge then easily up through corner crack and out to right,

A short slab route following a thin crack up the face hardest moves are just of the ground on very fiddly nuts. Trends right following crack line to the anchors for “The Proposal”

Heady slabbing which blasts up the blank face between Step Aside and Cordon Bleu, but stays entirely independent of the other lines. Classic!

The gear is sparse but should keep you off the ground in most places.

Alluring looking finger crack that is much more technical than it appears, well protected

The deeply excavated wide crack you arrive at on the track, some nice layback moves, on some larger gear, belay from tree at top.

The best climb on the crag, up the challenging seam, With good but fiddly gear, don’t be tempted to head out to the bolts on the face to the left!

Prominent right leaning jam crack with a couple layback moves and a strenuous crux

Good moves up the sharp edged crack. well protected