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St Helens - Bay of Fires
Plenty of granite boulders from St Helens to Binalong Bay to Bay of Fires. A few are developed, but heaps to go. |
Cozy Corner
Small area just north of Binalong Bay. Probably the best area known to date. |
Cozy Corner |
Car park boulders
In the drooping sheoaks just south of the car park. |
Cozy Corner Car park boulders |
V6
★★★ Absolution
Climb the arête with help from some face holds. Stand start. |
Project Left of Absolution
Sit or stand start the open arete squeeze to the left of absolution, looks possible but very hard. |
V0
★ Arb.
Sit start left hand low drag, right hand pebbly pinch and good feet. Bump up to jug and press up the bulge direct. Escaping via left ramp is out. |
V0+
★★ Arbo.
Start as for Arb. moving right via slopers and crimp to toput via the finger jug in the centre of the slab. |
V5
★ Arboreal
Start as for Arb then moving right along the lip of the boulder via slopers and crimps to join into and up Abalone. |
V3 - 6
★ Quokka
Sit start from rocky shelf hands on side pulls, bump up to the rail and navigate your way onto and up the hanging slab. Continue down the slabby ramp to an awkward low traverse into Arboreal for a V6 tick. |
V1
★★ Apricot Crumble
Sit Start with left hand on the good crumbly side pull and right hand on good jug, head up and left |
V0
★ Apple Crumble
Sit start on good jug, head up and left |
Cozy Corner |
Deadline nook
From the cosy corner north campsite you’ll find the boulders to the left of the beach, hop some rocks and you’ll find the little closed off area that eventually gets flooded from the tide |
Cozy Corner Deadline nook |
V2
★★ Traverse the wire
Left hand in crack, right on crimp, traverse low and finish as per Inflate the Tires. Wet in high tide! |
V2
★★ Bae Of Fires
Sit start (for full value sit-start from the sand rather than sitting on a pad). Climbs the left cracks on this and tops out. Has a great pinch feature. Wet in high tide! |
V2
★ Save and Retire
The middle of three climbs on section of wall. Sit start in the middle and top out. Wet in high tide! |
V1
★ Inflate the Tires
Climbs the arete on the right. Sit start with cracks and work your way to top out. Wet in high tide! |
V3
★★ Vanlife
Starts around the corner from ITT in the obvious finger crack. Sit start at base of crack and top out. Watch your back on the wall behind. Sit start from the sand for full value. |
V0
Endless Caesar
Stand start with good side pull, climb to top |
V0
★★ Run from the liars
Scoot your way up the chimney. |
V4/5
★ I don't off-width
Sit start from sand for full value. Butterfly/jam your way up the off-width. Maybe v4 as I don't climb off-widths. |
V3 R
★★ Watch your back
Sit start and fridge the two aretes, delicately over bulge to pleasant finger crack. Watch your back |
V1
Spaceships Rentals
Sit start from sand level with sharp arete for your left hand. Top out of spike. |
V2
Bucket Hat Crack
Sit start at the base of the crack, only the seam and the small ledge halfway are in. Top out |
V0+
★ Feed the chickens
Sit start on juggy crack, up and mantle to the left. |
V2/3
★★ Free the chickens
Stand start on obvious hold, traverse right via good sloper, finish up slab. |
V3
Seagulls squawk
Sit start, Left hand starts above the head on the lower sloper of the two, right hand starts on the bulge, bumps to a crimpy side pull, continue up and top out. Ledge and large crack on the right side are out |
V0
★ The Direct Approach
Sit start to the right of SS on the massive jug. Mantle onto jug and carefully climb over the top out. Be careful of the drop below. |
V0
★ Sugar and Tea and Rum
Sit start on the obvious flake. Move left and mantle. |
V3
★ Boatmans Boulder
Starting on the two small ridges with one foot on a small ledge at the bottom, bump straight up with the left hand to the sloper and top out |
Cozy Corner |
Waterfront boulders
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Cozy Corner Waterfront boulders |
V1
V1 Twin cracks
Sit start both cracks |
V0
V0 Face
Sit start with rail. |
Open Project 1
Compress your way up the boulder |
Cozy Corner |
Heart Beat blocks
Small summit consisting of a collection of stacked blocks. North of paddling pool boulders |
Cozy Corner Heart Beat blocks |
14
★★ Transforming Negative Emotions
Climb the splitter block. Excellent rock. Solo FA. |
Open Project 1
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Open Project 2
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
VB-
104bpm traverse
Low traverse of the slab between '133bpm Left' and 'The Heart Beat' in either direction. |
VB-
★ 133bpm Left
Stand start. Climb the slab on the far left. |
VB-
133bpm Right
Stand start to the slab. |
V0
★ The Heart Beat
Balance up the pedestal and follow the flake up to a mantel. |
Open Project 3
Might be possible, but would be pretty hard and technical underclinging. |
VB
★ 149bpm
Sit start. Climb up the cracks with good opposing jugs. |
VB-
132bpm Left
Sit start the left arête. |
VB-
132bpm Right
Hang start the right arête. |
Open Project 6
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Open Project 7
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Cozy Corner |
The Northern Beauty's
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Cozy Corner The Northern Beauty's |
22
★★ Ruby in the Dust
On the north facing side of the huge orange rock is a fantastic thin slab. Climb it past two glued carrots. Trad belay. |
12
★ Equanimity
Excellent continuous crack climbing with a few face features. Solo first ascent but it looks like the gear would be good. |
8
★ The Bridge to Compassion
Easy climbing on great rock. Follow the crack line up starting on the platform just above sea level. Solo first ascent, but appears that there would be good gear for a trad lead. |
V1
★ The Illusory Self
Start at right side of boulder and work your way left to the apex of the boulder and then top out on jug. Fun! |
V0
★★ The Stoic Path
Excellent long side-pull pocket feature. Start at bottom pocket and work your way right ton big jug feature. Carful of the drop below. |
Open Project
Sit start on undercling/sidepull. Finish up the juggy lip. |
V0
★★ Crabflake
Stand start, directly up and over the large flake. |
Cozy Corner |
Paddling Pool Boulders
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline! http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website |
Cozy Corner Paddling Pool Boulders |
V2
V2 Smears
Stand start, though sit would go. |
V1
V1 Crack
Stand start |
V0
★ VE Layback
Sit start |
V0
V0 Rock over
Sit start |
V1
V1 Face
Stand start |
V2
V2 Slab
Stand start |
VB
VE Diagonal
Stand start |
Open Project 3
Steep and slopy arete would go. |
Open Project 4
Mantle the hanging blankness |
V2
★★ Make a splash
Stand start, lay off the arete all the way up. |
Open project 1
Stand start |
Open project 2
Stand start |
VB-
VE Crack
Stand start the diagonal crack |
V0
★ Nice slab
Sit start on juggy rail just around from VE crack. Up on nice holds to east mantle. May have been done before |
St Helens Point
This is an extension of the Bay of Fires to the south of Georges Bay and includes various granite boulder fields scattered around St Helens Point. The rock is more smooth here than further north. |
St Helens Point |
Beerbarrel Beach
Beerbarrel Beach is all granite bouldering. Best at low tide but still good whenever. Has some really cool slabs and faces. |
St Helens Point Beerbarrel Beach |
The Sleeping Caterpillar
A large collection of vertical and slabby walls |
V1
Caterpillar on Crack
Hand crack, stand start then move up crack and face to top. Base gets water at high tide. Waiting for a sit start variant. |
V1
Sleepy La La
Stand start on good holds, mantle, then nicely up and over steep part of the face. Could be water at the bottom at high tide. |
V1
Hanging from a Thread
Start hanging on the ledge, mantle, and then up the gentle slab. |
V2
★ Dino-soar!
Start matching on rail and big move to horn then top out. Note, can't use chockstone. |
V3
★ The Very Hungry Caterpillar
Pumpy traverse L to R. From V1 crack hands along the horizontal break, then past little red horn and along breaks, finish on the fat detached flake rock - you can use the block under the little horn for your feet. Best at low tide to start. |
V2
Red Rocket
Start hanging on the small red horn, rocket up and mantle, no feet on blocks/ boulders underneath, just hand and go! |
V2
Reverse Traverse
Reverse of The Very Hungry Caterpillar. Start Matching on the rail, traverse L, past nice face holds, the Red Horn, then drop town to ledge, traverse staying low then finish up the V1 hand crack. |
V1
Silk Worm
Slab and little to left, top out. |
V3
Catapiller Moves
Up the steeper orange slab, avoid holds to the right. Grab the flake over the top as best you can and caterpillar your way over the top. |
V0-
Just feet
Walk up slab with no hands. |
V1
Dung Beetle
Sit start on rail and move up and slightly to the L, fun mantle move to top out. |
V3
Queen Bee
Stand start, move up keeping to the right of Dung Beetle, mantle with fancy palm work, and top out. |
V0+
Itchy Caterpillar
Sit start on pinchy cracks then follow them up to topout. |
V2
★★ Cocoon
Sit start with good feet laybacking the crack. climb up the face with fun moves and topout over the bulge on juggy hands. |
Open Book Boulder
A corner with a vertical and slightly overhung wall. located just opposite The Sleeping Caterpillar. |
V0
The Kraken
Start hands in crack L of Prize Novel follow crack up to top out. |
V3
★ Prize Novel
Small bulge then up centre of the face and L arete. Over the top to finish. Less a grade if you exit R at half way. |
V0+
★ Cracked Up
Sit start on crack and climb up. |
V0+
★★ St Helens Bridge
Stand start bridging between both walls. v1 if you don't use the two large cracks for hands. |
V4
★ Gutter Ball
Thin crack on R face. Using only the crack and a couple of foot nubs down low. Shoot for flat jug at top. |
V3
★ Yin-Yang
Stand start on sidepull, travers left until you hold a set of three baubles then pull up throw for side pull and top out to the left. |
Keepers Peak
A collection of easy climbs fit for a beginner. |
V0-
Flying Fish
Start on sidepull, traverse up and to the left. Only use holds on the face. |
VB
Stacked Dice
Start on small rail then head up and top out. |
V0
Beans Are Boiled
Sit Start on sidepull and traverse R only using holds on face |
V0+
Lil-Nook
Sit start on rail and traverse the nook then top out. |
V0+
★ Three Musketeers
Start on arete and traverse across the "Musketeers" |