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Bonanza

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 18

Seasonality

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Description

A nice selection of boulders hidden up above Ennio. Cave like, with some problems having shade all day. Lots of potential left but diligent cleaning on the cave lines is required.

Access issues inherited from Mt Lyell

This is an alpine area so follow all leave no trace principals, keep cleaning and clearing to a minimum and when possible toilet before or after climbing or follow the Tyndalls guideline. Please keep an extra eye out for King Billy pines and other native Tasmanian trees.

Approach

Head up past Ennio to the very high obvious arete. From the trend left and up a few levels to the obvious large cave.

Ethic inherited from Mt Lyell

Cleaning of loose or dangerous rock is essential here and some of that requires a bit of force and maneuvering but please avoid chipping or comforting of holds.

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (westbouldering@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Statewide Ethics

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Routes

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Grade Route

SDS Straight up the middle of the boulder on left, when facing into the cave. Stand start goes at V2.

FA: Moses, 10 Feb

Also on the small low boulder to the left when facing into the cave. Just after the entrance. It's a good downclimb option. SDS adds a bit.

FA: jackaa, 10 Feb

Start left of Winter Grass, traverse through and finish up the downclimb. Awaiting an epic extension all the way through and up the high ball finish.

FA: jackaa, 10 Feb

On the main boulder, just before the entrance to the cave. SDS on the boulder underneath and finish matched on the pebble at the bottom of the groove.

FA: Moses, 10 Feb

On the main boulder, but outside the cave. SDS at the far right arete and finish matched on the pebble at the bottom of the groove.

FA: Moses, 11 Feb

SDS at the right corner of the boukder. Head up and slightly left to join KL with your left into the pocket above the big pebble pinch on KL. A funky crux sequence here, to finish up KL

The King line of the area, up the center of the main overhanging face. SDS on the dirt blank on the conglomerate tufa. Big moves through obvious pockets, to finish dropping from the lip.

FA: Moses, 11 Feb

Down below the level of the main cave. Pull on to the arete then trend left to finish topping out on some nice pebbles.

FA: Ben Thorp, 11 Feb

Walk into the gulley past the Winter grass Boulder. Start hanging on the little crimps then traverse right to a really nice mantle finish.

FA: Ben Thorp, 11 Feb

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 20 May
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