Routes as trad in Sugarloaf

A traverse / girdle from the lower slabs of Sugarloaf, across flypaper wall, main wall and eventually finishing at the very top of Sugarloaf itself. Most of the climbing is easy grade 2-6 traversing, with the sections from baghdad to black streak being slightly harder grade 8-10. There are many variations and belay oppertunities but would be best simul climbed.

From the lowest slabs, or you can even start from the 'Left Route' and climb up and over some blocks, start traversing 5-10m above the ground until onto the main face. From here trend a bit higher and try hit the bolt on baghdad. From here follow some seems and breaks over Cherry flake and black streak. Follow your nose and you will likely find yourself just above the black streak DBB. After this there is a bit of jungle bashing before a very nice clean streak of rock to the top.

Likely done before but recording here for budding adventure climbers. Probably worth 1.5 stars due to novelty and length in a nice position.

1. 18m Start 10m L of BDO and follow juggy face to ledge. 2. 40m Straight up wall behind to belay as for BDO. 3. Move the belay 7m up to the right below the obvious shield. 45m Climb the face directly to a ledge near the left arete. 4. 10m Climb a layback flake and face to top.

Starts at bottom of Fly Paper Wall and heads all the the way to the top of main wall. 1. 18m Right side of FPW to stance. 2. 40m Follow slab past overhang then down to belay. 3. 35m Begin up main face to arete, then right to belay ledge. 4. 20m Follow arete all the way to another belay ledge perched above an overhang. 5. 10m Up the wall behind you.

On the approach to the main face after flypaper wall, the route is on the back of a pathway slab. Follows a small crack up and out.

Up from Fondaknackers. Left side of track. From undercling head up to roof, then traverse R to finish on boulder.

10m L of Tigris.

1. 12m Climb the humungo flake to top.

2. 30m Up R of water trap to ledge.

3. 33m Up to top

Starts on top of boulder mashed against wall to the left of where the trail meets the main face. 1. (24m) Straight up to big flake. 2. (33m) Continue up till you reach a rightwards weakness and follow to top.

Starts in front of boulder to the right of where the track meets the main face below the point of two ramps. 1. (35m) Straight up till you reach the flake. Follow left till you reach the diagonal ledge. You should be able to see the FH identifying the Baghdad belay further up to your right. 2. (45m) Continue up and Right till you see a L facing flake. Stay to the right of this all the way to the top.

Begins where the track meets the main face. 1. (35m) Up to ledge then follow left groove to spike. 2. (35m) Continue up to R of cave, over, out and up to top.

Starts 13m R of Mesopotamia under where a boulder leans against a flake. 1. (35) Up to the boulder. Pass interesting holes, up over buldge, then left to the diagonal ledge. (1 FH). 2.(45m) Keep going up and L till you merge with Mesopotamia.

Start between Baghdad and Cherrys Flake Direct. Straight up to diagonal features that lead to the DBB.

6m R of boulder against cliff (forming step). 1. 16m (8) Up and left passing BR to get to big flake. Follow flake to DRB and lower off or continue the next pitches. 2. 26m (11) Up and L to follow flakes to stance. 3. 24m (6) Straight up to the top.

Starts below the flake and goes straight up to it. Then L on groove, middle slab (14), or R on flake.

At second pitch traverse 7m L. Then go up and left making sure to stay R of a small overhang. Over overhang go up and R to rejoin main line.

Start as for Cherrys Flake and go straight up to DBB, don't deviate.

Shared start with Cherrys Flake. 1. 25m (5) Up to spike, then step R to gain small ramp which is followed L and up past BR to a DRB belay. 2. 35m (4) All the way up.

From the flake in Laver's Route head to the BRs. Go left and up following the weakness and find a belay above the BRs.

Shared start with Cherrys Flake.

1. 30m (15) To the small spike on Lavers Route. Follow black streak R and past 3 BRs to ledge.

2. 40m (5) Follow easy weakness to top.

Last pitch of Black Streak

3m L of Webbs Crack. 6m up then left over buldge. Up to ledge.

1. 22m (6) Start below the chimney, up to it till a good ledge.

2. 28m (8) Follow to top of crack

3. 20m (5) And up to top of cliff

7m Left of Plaque at entrance to Wells Cave.

1. 40m (12) Follow the crack using various techniques and the arete to find yourself in a belay hole.

2. 22m (9) Up wall to top.

Wanders up and left from the start of Elixer to a ledge and first belay. Then on up and right towards Webb's crack and the second belay. Finish up this route.

The route begins at the base of the slab which forms "Well's Cave" and tops out above the cave chamber. Descent can made by down climbing the northern section of the slab.

Continue on 100m after Cave slab and you'll get to an easier wall.

1. 26m Up with passing the overhang and to a stance above.

2. 27m On to the top

Starts about 3m L of Speigals Other Slab. Balance up the line directly up the wall, crossing the L diagonal to the thin crack through the L hand side of the overlap. Pull up on delicate edges, then reach and pull onto the slab. Up to belay wherever.

Starts almost in but just L of Speigal Slab. Follow the fault line diagonally a little then on up to the overlap 2m L of Speigals Slab. A hard move over this then up to the ledge.

Enjoyable slab climbing with a fun overhang. The main crack up the slab past a bolt and through the overlap at its easiest spot.

Exposed. Goes thru the minor roof on the buttress R of and above the finish of the preceding climbs. I t exits dirctly onto the The Razorbacl itself. Start from the ledge and balance up the wall until under the roof. Clip the bolt, and make the move through the roof.

Start at the R edge of the slab on the R side of the large fallen tree.

1. 25m Up the edge to the overhang. Pass the R side of the overhang and up the faint corner till it stops (not the mossy corner) L across the slab, up to the flake on a ledge L of Speigals Roof.

2. 20m Up jugs to a ledge L of an inset cliff at the base of a L leading groove. Finish up the groove to The Razorback or straight up the wall above the ledge.

Start at the arete. Climb the arete and over the bulge to an easy finish.

A short distance down the access ramp, a tree grows out of a horizontal crack below a couple of mossy lines (they were clean in 1980) Up the cracked wall L of the tree to below the L hand line. There are no anchors and the stances are poor. The hardest bit is the start.

A fine sustained route. Scramble past the tree to below a short wall 5m R of Extra Cover. The corner, then the clean wall.

Starts up the shallow groove at the L hand side of the main face. Up the scoop (jugs on the L are out) to the ledge, and on to the bottom of the triangular hole (hard to see from the ground). Up L and take the thin crack to the ledge.

Follow YSBD to the triangle, then move across the hole (large step) to the R hand hand exit. The line to the ledge.

Not great. Starts off the the half height ledge R of the 2 previous routes. Up the pock marked wall to the disintegrated overlap. Through the choss and up to the top.

Starts down the bottom of the access ramp. LBW is the obvious groove.

1. 25m The groove, L at the top and onto the belay ledge.

2. 25m Up the thin cracks, to the bulge. Directly through this to the large ledge. Climb the face above this at its hardest point to the Razorbacks.

Scary for the grade. The L leading line 6m R of LBW. The line to the halfway ledges. Straight up the the flakes, and past these with caution and dubious protection to a large ledge.

A suus name for a suss climb lol. Starts about 15m R of DV on the R hand side of a tree. Follow the line of jugs. Descent is down the ramp above GAB.

All routes on Foggy Bottom are described from left to right

2m Right of Bush Bash which is the first easy crack after the broken section.Climb widish crack through bulge.

next wide crackwith nice moves through first steepness

Crack 1m right of Rainbow

Crack 2m right of Next Gen. step Right at horizontal and up next crack.

Next crack 2m right just left of main large grove. crack then face.

Main Grove/crack that splits the face, surprisingly good climbing.

Buitiful face climbing on the arete just right of B.P.M

Nicest climb on the cliff. Take the line in the middle of the smooth face. Climb through weakness in the first bulge to join the small upper crack.

Excellent crack just right of Ubar Dad

Start as for Cardiac Event then step right into upper crack.

Easy crack 4m right of Beater Blockers