Routes as trad in Frederick Peak

Up the corner left of "The Frederick's Fandango". Care of the loose death blocks. Tree belay.

Starts around the corner from SSS. Climb up passing 3 U-bolts to a series of cracks and blocks and finishing at a DRB.

Starts at the arête (initialized). Stick-clip the first FH from the ground then up to the 2nd horizontal. Cruxy moves L to get into the steep but generous hand crack.

Climb right up the middle of the face and from the horizontal break at a third height, move through the mildly overhanging orange face. Continue left and reach a right leaning weakness. Follow to chains.

Starting at the right hand side of Afternoon Wall at left leaning crack (initialized). Layback left along the crack to the alcove then back right via the steep, thuggy hand crack. Take the steep corner of the left to reach ledge and chains. Alternatively follow the easier crack on the right.

Starting about 6 m left of the gully, 10m up on the terrace and left of "The Bowen Special" (initialized). Climb up through a small roof (crux), then up a vegetated corner, moving right to finish up the slabby wall/arête past a FH.

Starting 5 metres right of "SSP" at the crack line left of "The Bowen Special". A few tough moves as it steepens then onto a delicate slab. Save a large cam for the upper slab just below the tree. Belay near the top of the buttress.

Starting about 30m right of "Banana Bender" (initialized). Climb up slab to diagonal corner, following this straight up. Belay in a comfy spot where the cracks run out. Descend by a roped traverse right about 8m to an easy gully.

This climb starts in the gully at the black slab right of TBS. Starting at the left hand side of the wall, follow the right leaning crack to the top.

Starting at the open book corner (initialized), step on the larged embedded rock climb up via the pockets and jams in the crack. Head slightly right using long slings, continuing up to belay. Belay at the three large boulders.

Starting as for "Were-Rabbit" but stepping right under arête on small cams to slab. Climb up the slab and follow the crack left to belay as for "Were-Rabbit".

Climb up the steepening crack-line in the green corner 4m left of SP. Moving right just under the top, avoiding the overhang.

Watch for wasps on the right half-way up.

Starting on a thin layback crack 2 metres left of "Plum" at obvious wide-ish crack (initialized). It's a lovely climb with great gear. End up just above the "Were-Rabbit" belay using the same exit.

The was the first climb on Juicy Buttress. An awesome climb, especially for beginners learning to trad. It has a tricky start, beginning below the left facing corner (initialized). Follow the layback to turn the roof (crux). No hand rests to place gear helps before hitting crux moves. Then follow the right leaning cracks to belay and rap off the tree at the top left of the cliff.

Great climbing down low with tough, bouldery moves to get established at the lip then a committing roof on 3 FH and then a slabby climb, well below the grade, on medium sized trad gear (small cams and large nuts). Belaying at the obvious high corner allows a roped scramble to chains on PPJ.

Starts about 5m R of SP on a black slab below rooflet (initialized). Climb up into the hanging corner to jugs, stepping immediately left, around the arête. Follow the easier climbing on face & cracks to the tree on the summit. Take care at the top of the corner with the blocks.

Follow the heinous chimney and steep slab to natural belay. Take large cams.

One of the best routes at Juicy Buttress and is also the hardest with plenty of excellent gear. Follow the white overhanging crack, moving left to pod then right into the hanging orange corner. Trend left past the roof onto the steep slab to finish. Set up a natural belay or use the PPJ chains.

Starting at the orange ramp underneath overhang (initialized). Powerful and technical climbing up the overhanging crackline to join PPJ at the top corner, taking care with hollow blocks after the crux bulge.

Starting 2 metres right of the big white overhanging wall (initialized). Climb up the black and orange ramp to the obvious left leaning crackline and place the first piece of gear. Continue up following the crack with great gear to the square cut-out. A tricky move over the top (crux) to large sloping ledge. Move left to the chimney and continue up to the chains.

At the PL initials, climb straight up the intermittent crackline line past 3 FH's and good wires. Enjoyable climbing on interesting holds.

Scramble up the black ramp at the very right side of the wall to the vertical wall with initial, keeping the big chimney on your right hand side. Follow the diagonal line to the chockstone at the top of the chimney and veer slightly left, continuing up to a big flat rock with a tree behind. To descend scramble around to the right.

1. 38m Starts with a thin crack heading diagonally up and right then zig zags up and over a bulge (crux) then directly up to a ledge with a thin tree for the first pitch.

2. 12m Then straight up a corner crack for another 12m for the 2nd.

Little trad line will a low roof and a bolt before the lower off.

10m L of Raptor. Follow the major weakness up the middle of the steep black slab, then move through a small roof to a natural belay. Escape via IT.

Starts 20m L of Escape Alley. A steep start up the crack to a small roof. Move up and L (before the second roof) along a diagonal finger crack past a small shrub. Delicate moves then climb up the black crimpy slab. Follow straight up to top to reach a single FH. Descend by "Idyll Times" DBB.

3m R of Raptor is an obvious crackline leading to some offwidths up high. Follow this crack up to a set of twin cracks, then up to below the large offwidth. Trend L avoiding the offwidths following the crack up towards the top. Finish up a generously protected slab to DBB on the L wall. Requires a sling to escape.

Starts just L of the arête at the beginning of Cooker Wall. Follow the crackline then gear to finish at the DBB for IT.

Starting at the right of the vegetated corner below a huge chockstone.

1. Up the right side of the chockstone onto ledge and continue up right for a few metres to large sloping corner and ledge. Continue up the corner, finishing on a nice featured headwall to a large ledge when you can set up a belay.

2. Move five metres right through the pine garden joining pitch 2 of "The Soldier King".

Starts 8m R of Body Armour below a sharp fin at slab in the corner between two parallel cracks. Abseil descent (bring a sling).

1. 20m 15 Start on the slab through to crux and past the fin to easier path right. Continue to the ledge right of the large pine tree - natural belay.

2. 35m 10 Head up from the belay past multiple ledges to a tricky belay at the top. Escape by scrambling down right towards the chains.

Starting 20m right of The Soldier King at a small pine tree.

1. 10 30m Up through ledges trending left to the lone pine tree.

2. 19 25m Continue up towards headwall and then left before it steepens. Continue on to join in with the finish of The Soldier King.

Ledge hop up trending left to the lone pine tree.

Starts at the north end of Escape Alley at a small tree belay. Joins into the final 3 pitches of "Monkey on a String". Walk out along the long ledge passing the descent chains. Finish on the R of the block.

Located above the long ledge above Monkey on a String VS. Obvious wide off-width crack on the L. Punch through the steep hand crack to reach a good rest. Move out R to follow the crack system to a large ledge. Escape via the pine tree to the L.

Located above the long ledge above Monkey on a String VS. 5m R of "Mary-Kate". Up the open corner to reach a rest. The crack then widens to allow hands. Belay at a ledge. Escape as for "Mary-Kate".

L trending crack on R of bowl.

Up blunt arete 3m R of SK.

8m L of GD. Up jugs on steep wall past a FH to slab. Up thin crack to corner and exit at tree belay.

Start 20m uphill from FTG at tree close to rock.

1. (25m 16) Slab on LHS of tree then move R to corner up high. Up corner and move R onto ledge. Up wall to ledge and Belay above scrub.

2. (12m 16) Up crack left of large orange corner. Up small left facing corner toward tree at the top. Escape off tree.

Start 4m right of GD at short steep headwall.

1. (24m 18) FH to reach shallow ledge and easier ground. Join up and finish with GD.

2. (17m 10) Traverse left along ledge to crack. Up this and corner to slab. up to Belay descend via GD.

Start as for CP. After corner go up past 2 FH on Steep ground to Join back to pitch 2 of original (Consolation Prize).

Start 10m R of original (Glory Days). Up slab to stance in corner. Move L passing a FH and up to ledge. Move up and R along ledge Through bulge and a FH to join back with GD. Finish up this.

6m L of FTG. Stick clip. up onto ledge, follow corner crack to large ledge and DBB.

Start at the top of DID. Climb corner on the left for about 7m then move left out of corner when it gets chossy. Pass honeycomb rock and large block to finish up short crack to tree belay.

This two pitch route is the obvious corner you first reach when walking to the watchtower along the track.

1. 33m 16 Pull up onto slab and follow to the base of corner. Continue up the corner to sloping ledge and large tree. Up the wide crack on the left wall to ledge with a DBB.

2. 30m 18 Step right around the arête to the face. Climb up and slightly trending right to a right traverse to avoid the large blocks towards the end. Move back left and up dirty ramp to ledge at the top of block. Escape is possible from Blackened lower off.

Starts R of FTG around the corner on the terrace, below a small roof. Up past 2 FHs and diagonally R to steep section. Through this to horizontal break and over small roof (crux). Follow the crack (with an optional rest out L). Move L just below a sharp arête to reach large ledge. Traverse to the DID anchor or use the large tree to escape.

Starting 10m right of Smokescreen in the orange bowl. CLimb up past the first FH and follow the crack. Move left to horizontal and over short headwall to stance. Move up and left to overhanging corner past two more FH's to easier ground and right trending crack to ledge and DRB.

Start as for Bloodlines but stepping right after the 2nd FH. Follow 3 more FH's up the pillar and then join back into Bloodlines for the final crack.

Starting at the anchors of Cognition. Climb the sustained crack on R to the top and move L to a rest. Up the tricky face to wide exit and ledge with DRB. It's best to avoid the semi-hanging belay by having the belayer on the ground.

Just R of entrance to Escape Alley, below cave. Up to ramp and high FH, then R across tricky slab. Then follow gear and jugs. Traverse L (FH) then up leaning crack to ledge. Finish up short headwall to DBB in cave.

Start as for MOAS - about 25m uphill from AF at large flake with fist sized crack. Up flake for 8m to sloping ledge and FH. Balancy moves past this to 2nd FH and corner. Up this and R to stance. R for 2m then up excellent orange rock to optional belay or go L to chains.

1. (25m 20) As for FOTW, move L after cam placement, through rooflet to ledge, up L facing corner to chains.

2. (42m 23) L for 4m (cams) til possible to move up and clip FH. Over ledge and up steep wall past 2 FH to awkward rest below overlap (gear). Exit on L past FH to gain easier wall above. Move R then up slab to large ledge.

3. (25m 18) Up obvious crack a few metres R of large detached block to ledge, then R to large ledge with tree. Up featured corner to perfect crack below cave.

4. (8m 22) Up 45 degree wall past 3 FH then slightly R up slab to natural belay.

5. (20m 12) move diagonally L below scrub toward L side of large block. Finish up last few metres of AF.

Variant 2nd pitch for MOAS. Climb direct above belay past 2 FH then to ledge passing a wire. Up and L to corner, then L onto tooth. Traverse around to the front, pass a horizontal break and up on easier ground to natural belay on ledge.

Starts 10m uphill of AF at a white streak. Head straight up for 5m to first pro in horizontal break, then head right and up onto slab. Follow slab back left and up past FH (crux). Now climb up and right to the belay chains of AF.

Starts where the western track meets the rock on the vague north-eastern corner of the South Sentinel.

1. Up from initialled corner to large scoop and gear. Move R out of scoop and continue up the crack. Move L past 1 FH to a small horn and another FH. Gain the corner crack and follow the ledges to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

2. Up and L from the belay through vegetation to gain the large detached rib. Pass optional rivet on the main wall (requires 1 bracket) and follow rib to ledge with prominent crack. Up to gain large ledge with tree.

3. Up steep scooped wall to sloping ledge and traverse L to single FH (back up with gear).

4. Obvious crack above belay then easy corner to summit.

Starts about 8m R of AF at a vague grey line. Up the ramp (loose blocks on the L) and continue up for about 20m. Then up R of an orange scoop and traverse L above to reach orange rock and corner. Up corner to vegetated belay ledge and chains.

Start at the first belay of AF, follow the obvious crack on the right to ledge and continue up, traversing right to join up with pitch 4 of Pitch Black.

Starting 5m L of the of AF pitch 4. Pass 4 FHs up the pocketed wall to reach crack at top. Natural Belay.

Starts about 3m R of the cave. Follow L facing corner weakness to summit area.

Starts 8m R of the cave. Climb up short corner to slabby buttress.

1. (28m 13) 10m R of AF. Up black slab on U bolts to fun finish and ledge.

2. (28m 15) Up past 2 U bolts to corner. Traverse R over slab to steep headwall. Up this to natural belay. Escape as for PB.

The direct start to PB. Starts 15m R of the original start. Up the black slab to ledge and up steep blocky corner on thin gear. Pull over onto easier ground and follow the RH facing corner to a short headwall to PB 2nd pitch belay chains.

Follows the steep crack directly above to chains.

Starts from the large ledge on Pitch Black (the end of the 4th pitch). Up the short steep section a few metres left of pitch 5 of PB then follow ledges left until you reach the ledge with tree in the middle of the third pitch of Absent Friends.

About 8m R of Absent Friends is a low blocky ledge and a not-so-obvious weakness. An excellent climb with great rock and exposure, a little run-out with tricky gear in places. Escape is possible from chains at the end of pitch 2 & 4.

1. 13 35m Follow weakness on good rock until you reach a ledge with a single FH.

2. 15 12m Trend up right to below large death block – don't touch it! Place gear and begin the exposed juggy traverse around arête to small ledge and chains.

3. 15 37m Go up from belay, trend left below overlap and follow left facing ramp for a few metres until a small ledge with loose blocks above. Head out right past a tricky crux section on sketchy gear and pull through a final steep section to reach a large sloping ledge and cave (DBB).

4. 3 30m Scramble up left under cave and up loose gully or the wall on your right. Continue until you reach a chain belay and large tree directly above previous belay. Escape is possible here via chains.

5. 9 45m Continue through steep section and small V groove (little gear) to reach a ledge. Or alternatively start left at the featured corner. Continue up well featured rock to belay ledge below final headwall.

6. 14 43m Trend up and slightly right through the steep section before moving R past 1m high horn. Now move up heavily featured section to summit.

Set the belay further L of the original below two obvious corners. Up the R corner and onto ledge then trend R and easily up to top.

Starts 7m right of TLM.

1. 20m 18 Head up the black slab through the crux passing 3 FHs. Place gear before mantling on small ledge. Trend up and slightly right and continue about 4m left across ledge to base of 'V' corner and go up. Head right to small ledge with a natural belay.

2. 18m 21 Go straight up the steep yellow corner for 2m and traverse right above the overlap. Continue up right until you reach a ledge and FH. Up the thin slab through the crux with 2 more FHs and then into cave with rings. Escape via a 35m rap to the ground.

3. 17m 16 Head right out of cave (FH) and up past fin onto a ledge. Move back left and up onto slab then diagonally right to orange wall. Up this for 5m then traverse left to belay about 3m below a large spike.

4. 22m 21 Head left from belay along ledge then up short corner to large sloping ledge. Avoid the loose blocks while traversing right along ledge and lean out to clip FH. Up exposed corner (crux) then right onto ledge. Follow the heavily featured wall to ledge with bollard and tree - this is the PB pitch 4 belay. Walk behind the tree for 5m until you meet the rock again. Escape is possible via PB.

5. 25m 12 Up right to ledge and traverse 8m right. Continue straight up to ledge with orange thread. Take care with the loose blocks on traverse.

6. 50m 12 Up the easy slab for 25m to reach a ledge below an orange roof. Move up cracks to the right of the roof and then move back left onto slab. Up the slab then finish straight up steep final wall.

Start as per "Steeling Time" and finish right to "Out On a Limb" chains.

Starts at the ramp below the large scoop.

1. 18m 17 Up via the grey scoop past the 1st FH. Traverse out left and then around the block to easier ground. Up to ledge with tree and DRB.

2. 30m 12 Up the obvious corner. Go left and up until you reach the large ledge beneath the short headwall.

3. 30m 13 Walk left along ledge and climb around bulge to gain short steep corner. Up corner and then diagonally left until you reach a small section of orange rock below a steep headwall. Belay at end of orange section.

4. 50m 17 Climb up the headwall past horizontal breaks, then traverse right to crack. Up and over to reach the large ledge. Traverse right along the set of ledges to reach the top of Master's Apprentice. Escape via the chains.

Be aware of loose rock on pitches 2-4.

At the end of Mira Nova pitch 2, climb straight up through steep featured roof with obvious crack (crux). Through the hidden, over-hanging corner crack and climb to ledge & tree belay above Supernova Wall. Beware of the loose rocks on ledge.

Build a belay midway through pitch 3 of "Mira Nova" below the blood orange part of the short headwall. Climb up the headwall past horizontal breaks, then traverse R to weakness and ledge. Traverse R along the set of ledges to reach the top of "Master's Apprentice". Escape via the chains.

Obvious leaning crack line. One of the best traditional routes around. Take cams up to #3 C4.

Ambiguous start R of OMF.

1. (30m 20) Stick clip. 2nd bolt (crux) and up to easier ground. Trend L, then R to steep corner at large block. over block to slab and belay on ledge.

2. (50m 23) Up through orange bowl and 4 bolts. Up headwall on gear, then through scoops and 2 more bolts. Up slab to L facing chimney and ledge.

Same escape as MA.

Starts just before The Fairy Garden, just after the large boulder – look for a stainless rivet at head height. Take 1 bracket.

1. 15m (17) Up past rivet into small corner and gear. Move left along ledge to gain slick diagonal crack. Follow this to belay ledge.

2. 20m (19) Follow the loose but easy buttress on the left side of the ledge to gain steep face. Climb through the sustained face passing 3 FHs and up to chains on ledge.

3. 45m (19) From the chains traverse right and up to FH. Technical moves past this (crux) to ledge with weakness on left side. Follow this tending left to sloping black ledge. Continue up cracks to the right of this ledge until you reach a large corner/chimney. Now up this to large ledge and tree belay.

Escape via hidden chains below large tree at southern end of ledge. 2 x 35m raps to the ground.

P1-2 Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker 1.7.03

P3 Rik Wittkopp, Mark Gommers 2.7.03

1. 15m 19 Starting at the belay of MA p1. Head straight up through the orange rock and crack to a belay at ledge.

2. 30m 17 Follow the path of least resistance sticking right of the orange corner of Terra Nullius. Continue right to the vague arête and natural belay on the ledge.

Start up Fairy Dust, then follow arching crack with committing moves on natural pro. Large gear useful. Finish above pod below anchor of Townsvillians.

Starts up the ramp in the bowl at the end of The Fairy Garden.

1. (30m 26) Up steep wall to rest. L across slab to ledge and DBB.

2. (20m 25) Traverse L past 4 FH then up over bulge and ledge to natural belay.

3. (35m 21) Move R out of cave past 3 FH on steep wall. Up through roof to slab and ledge. Finish up bottomless corner to ledge.

4. (20m 18) Climb L on the nose passing a FH. From ledge, up steep featured rock to slab and natural belay at summit.

Starts about 10m right the last bit of roof in the Hyperbowl (the wave) - right of AOBTD. Up the awkward corner until it is possible to clip a FH and escape left onto slab (crux). Continue up slab passing a FH and a wire then move right to third and final FH. Climb around the bulge into the corner and up gully tending right to large ledge and trees.

Starts about 10m R of ETTV. Delicately up the technical slab. Move R into corner system. Undercling and traverse L to corner with a fun finish.

Insidious crack 7m L of PITS. Start at left end of ledge, not that you'd want to...

Starts from the terrace above "Escape to the Void" and is the obvious huge corner between two arêtes.

1. 15m 21 Straight up the sustained corner with bomber gear then traverse left to exposed belay ledge below a triangular roof.

2. 22m 18 Climb slightly right of belay an up through a committing layback (exposure!) to easier ground. Continue up, staying close to the arête to large belay ledge with a fixed pin (on a block a few m from the edge, facing the gulley).

To escape, walk along the ledge to an obvious easy corner and climb this to the top. Then scramble down to rap chains.

Start on small extruding block passed when climbing DBMP. Up jugs passing wires to large horn and a FH. Out past 2nd FH then over lip to final bolt (use 80cm sling). Up slab to summit. Do not place gear on slab and do not second this climb due to knife blade edge on lip.

Starts at the saddle between the rap chains and the Termite Mound. Follow the major traversing crack along a series of slabs to reach a large curving corner with a high sloping crack (crux). Continue on to pass an extruded block and finish at a major ledge. Exit up the steep gully.

Experience the occasional acid flashback. L of the bowl, unfortunate chossy start before a great orange corner crack. Rap off the tree, Dude!

Vertical crack on the left of the south facing wall behind the hoop pine tree. Fantastic continuous climbing up a stunning line. From 1m R of the crack make balancy moves L into the crack proper. Straight up the line via elegant bridging and fingerlocks to finish on the generous ledge with DBB.

Better than the name suggests. Good gear (medium wires and cams) and interesting climbing up the corner to belay on the big ledge on the L. Escape as for Hoop Pine Crack.

This climb will have you thinking of the Arapiles.

1. 20m 25 Up the immaculate orange crack, over the bulge to the ledge. Follow the easy corner to the large ledge and DBB.

2. 30m 22 From the ledge step out onto the headwall and follow the large weakness through a series of roofs to finish at a large tree and natural belay. Well featured rock on the top half of this pitch.