Routes in Mornington Peninsula

Direct through the small overhang at the entrance to the zawn. Must be climbed in socks.

Traverse rightwards along obviou break from sit start left of PP, finishing up Delphinium. Or continue along the same break to finish up the last pinnacle at the back of the Zawn.

On the east flank of the top of The Fairy Steps downfall is a less than vertical little edge up which you can, with a belief in magic, pretend is a climb worthy of big folk. Big Wall climbing for a pixie or the resident 6 legged bulls.

At the left end of Little Curbar is an undercut slab facing the large detached block. Sit start and direct up slightly left of the line taken by Fraser on his Youtube video of Cairns Bay.

This is the low level traverse, not possible at very high tide or if the sea is too choppy without wetsuit boots. A delightful way into Seth Zawn from the North West end traversing left to right through a series of awkward overhangs and corners. The water is just deep enough to drop carefully into on a warm day.

A traverse starting from the walkdown point to the left. traverses along the low wall until you reach the main wall of the cliff

Starts 3m right of “Falling Rock”. Up blocky arête staying right of the dark water marks. Avoid bridging.

Into the back of the slot right of “Waterfall Route”. Chimney and up

Straight up the front of the tall buttress immediately left of Monkey Tattoo. Follow the right diagonal feature to the pinnacle top.

Further left around from The Real Thing and up a level is another small steep wall facing out to sea. Kai's Line takes the centre of this wall via flake cracks and small horizontal ledges .

Starts 1m right and perpendicular to “Waterfall Route”. Easily up textured wall to highest point.

Obvious crack 2 or so meters left of Falling Rock

The arête 3m right of “Boater Boy”. Easily up the delicate corner. Finishes up high as for “Boater Boy”.

Starts as for "Falling Rock". Follows the diagonal line across the rock, just above overhang past grotty jug, and continuing right, finishing up near "Waterfall Route". Be vigilant of loose rock in places.

Immediately right of Durian is another optimistic line. Some fragile holds and good gear in breaks and cracks near the top.

As for "Fault Line" until the big grotty jug, then straight up wall to top. Be vigilant of loose rock in places.

A direct start and finish through Pigface tackling the centre of the overhanging bulge/ledge.

Left of Kong by 15m, across the stepped slabby wall is another pinnacle. Dandelion tackles the crack and corners up the face via some wide ledges.

Starts 3m right and uphill from the arête through steep terrain. Delicately up past small missing block and spiders nest.

Up “Spider Arête” for 1.5m then left. Up wall tending left and not using arête.

On Kong Buttress. The route starts at the extreme left edge of the basalt platform on the ocean side of elephant rock just beyond where the swell slams into a square corner creating an impressive backdrop in all but the smallest seas. About 1.5m right of the obvious deep crackline that runs bottom to top of the buttress from the lower very shallow rock pool. The line follows a series of bulges ledges and cracks before overcoming the slightly overhanging top of an obvious pinnacle. See photos.

The line immediately right of and avoiding the bulge/ledge of New Balance.

Reverse the traverse of Diamonds but escape up the right bulging overhang/arete of the V notch before the end.

The front of the narrow buttress at the back of Seth Zawn via the short overhang/niche. Slightly easier variations exist moving just left or right at the crux.

Follows the flake crack up the front of Kong Buttress from the right end of the watery low platform.

The landward end of the south facing wall of the zawn has a scooped out overhanging section on less than perfect rock. Falling Rock takes the flake/crack system just left of this area. Take care with hollow sounding flakes and loose top.

Just left of Obi1 through the small overhangs near the top on good holds.

A relatively clean line amidst a sea of choss.

Possibly done before. There is some mention of climbing previously recorded in this area with poor descriptions in the Eastern District guidebook from the VCC. Maybe this is one of them. Around the left side of Elephant Rock to the left of the usual way up for walkers the first steep wall you come to has a rockpool in front of it's base and faces the small seperate sea stack. The Real Thing takes the left hand side of this wall via a nice juggy side pull at half height and the small overhang on the left at the top. Lead by Karl and Kai. See photo.

One of the more entertaining ways to escape up from the Diamonds traverse. Takes the lovely hanging arete on the right side of the obvious V niche just after the start of the traverse.

The bulging overhanging wall immediately left of The Real Thing. An eliminate line with no recourse to reachable easier holds. Direct up.

A couple of meters left of GITM Apeman tackles the blocky overhang via a side pull flake to the left.

The right hand side of the short wall (containing The Real Thing) over the pool, start under the slab just right of centre, pull up onto the wall and step left onto a flat ledge. Continue up directly from the left end of the ledge through the protruding cap above.

Round to the left of PE start up the slabby rocks trending leftwards to a small roof which is tackled directly, avoiding the niche left.

The edge of a thin arête at the back of seth zawn, using the edge and north face.

A left to right girdle traverse of Seth Zawn starting as for Diamonds but climbing higher terrain and continuing around the corner to finish at the top of Pigface.

The attractive arete above the shallow pool 3m right of Hazy Monkey. Beware dangerous loose blocks near the top, as of January 2020.

Starts at the back of the shallow cave on shoddy rock to the right of Pandemic Panic then traverse right out across the roof crack, feet on vertical sand, then straight up the pocketed blunt arête to finish.

The slabby narrow wall immediately right of Hazy Monkey.

4m left of the start of GITM pull onto the ledge above head height and proceed directly up the narrow buttress between the 2 shallow chimneys without deviation or recourse to the chimneys.

Straight up the blankest tallest part of the East side of The Pap without recourse to the corner right or blocky arete left.

Start at the bottom of GITM and move diagonally up and left across the wall via flakes and side pulls to join the right leading thin crack which is followed back to the arete and top.

As for Fink but anything goes.

Takes the easy arete then steeper headwall immediately left of Hazy Monkey.

Leftmost end of the outcrop on the right hand side of the arete and just left of the obvious hanging slab. Straight up the longest vertical line on the edge. Extremely loose top.

The central crackling on the Lookout wall.

The crackline immeditely left of C, R, E, R.

Halfway along the edge tackle the bulging overhang on it's right.

2nd route climbed on The Pap. The dusty corner falls down as quickly as you climb it. It takes a certain mindset. Release your inhibitions, cast off your preconceptions and embrace the esoteric pleasure of top roping choss. Then cool off in one of the splendid rockpools nearby.

The crumbling arete right of DRN.

The broken wall immediately right of and avoiding the arete of ZMATLR. This wall will probably be more broken after you have climbed it than before. Nothing unidentified about those flying objects!

5m right of UFO there is another short very broken wall with an obviousb X crack system in the upper half. Climb the snaking left side of the X. Hands in crack only. Careful, it may lay some eggs if you aren't gentle with it....

The right hand twin of the crack system. As for Whitesnake, hands in crack only. Yes these are eliminate lines. And unlike the song she's not rock steady (Bam-ba-lam)!

Use right side pull to start. Follow the obvious crack up and left towards main jump edge. Rest spot inside the crack. After several sketchy mantle moves use high feet and two jug-like crimps on left side of main edge for sketchy topout (see topo).

Start just left of Line Of Crack, moving up obvious break directly under main jumping spot. Move up nose on pockets and top out on the main jumping take off.

Start as for Line Of Crack, but go straight up the central buttress to topout.

The pocket riddled face on the south of the main jumping area. Start in the water then climb up just right of the obvious crack.

The main face of the wall on the rock platform north of the main jumping rock.

The corner to the left of the rope, just south of the main jumping rock. Start in the middle by finding your way with pockets, then moving up to a scary mantle over the bulge to top out. Good luck finding your feet!

From down the hole behind the Volcom Stone. Climb it from low hands and feet as low as possible. Squeezing lemons now.

A sit start down at the bottom of the arete. A pretty bunched start on decent crimps leads up to the starting holds of Yote. Your leg dabbing against the block to the left is impossible to avoid

A ledge protrudes at knee height from Little Burbage about 4m from the west end. Sit underneath this and mantel/ crimp upwards avoiding jugs on the right. Weird twisted left hand press in the small roof. Stand on the ledge and go for the top. Funky.

A climb on the far side of the boulder your back faces when climbing crown jewel cliff. Start down in the crack with hands on the large ledge. Harder for the short

starting crouched on the left hand side of the vertical face, using arete for the left and crimps/jugs up the face for the right.

Sit start with hands about halfway up the sidepull then move up the flake all to the top right and mantle onto the top of the boulder.

Sit start below the obvious seam, then trend right to finish as for Ligeia.

The left arete of the slab side from a sit start laybacking up the hanging left side not up the slab.

Sit start match on the jug at the far right in the cave. Follow the line of jugs in the cave then finish up the arete of White Feet.

Sit start on the ocean side face of the boulder. The crux is figuring out how to pull on

Left to right traverse through core sample holes to straight up just left of the roof block with a short jam crack.

Start with both feet in the white hole deep under the ledge and hands on the knife-like flakes. Work out from under the ledge and then up a series of jugs on the sea corner of the cliff.

Start by hanging off the bright orange sloper and traverse across the top of the boulder topping out at the right end.

Comfortably lay down/sit start with a good RH pinch and a LH crimp. Shoot up to the lip and mantle to top out.

Sit start under roof on pockets, use seam left and face holds right to top just right of the block behind you. Very nice.

Starting with both hands on the chockstone between Xbox and PS1 and feet on Xbox crab your way around Xbox in a anticlockwise direction for an ironic 270 degrees with hands below the top until the fun ends around the back when the boulder chokes.

Sit start match on the jug at the far right in the cave. Follow the line of jugs in the cave then finish up the arete of White Feet.

The long slabby side of the Forbidden Fruit Boulder.

Jump up to the break and then head to the top using small face holds (No use of left arête or chossy crack on right)

Link up parts from 'White Feet' and 'Well shit' and 'Straight Surprise'. Start as per 'White Feet', come out from under the ledge at 'Well Shit', make the super big obvious pocket on this climb, then traverse onto the beginning holds of Straight Surprise, then up Straight Surprise to finish.

Sit start as far back as possible then up through bulgy ledges and direct or left over the capping block.

Start with your left hand on the lumpy sloper, your right on the small crimp on the right underside, a right heel hook can be found on the edge 3/4 of the way down. A sequence of high tension moves to move up to the nose then mantling up the side to top out.

Sit start and direct up the wall immediately right of the very shallow corner.

SDS immediately R of Ligeia and just L of the block on the ground.

Climb up and R via the seam and vague arete to divots on the lip. Finishing straight up from there.

Sit down start on the seaward side of PS1. Out of the hole on slopers and straight up the front.

Follow the hairline seam diagonally L up the slab.

On the way to Kaiser wall a couple of mini zawns are passed along the track. The first and deepest provides a couple of nice juggy lines above water. Yuletide traverses in from the water's edge into the north side and straight up at the tallest point.

Start with left hand on blocky high under cling and right on the sloper/crimp on the corner of the lower rh face. Squeeze hard to stand up and powerfully slap wherever you can hold to top out direct for the full experience. Note that this could be over graded.

start with both hands on the obvious ledge. move right hand to the reddish pinch, then move left and top out awkwardly about midway along the boulder.

The wall left of the crack

Finishes the way the dyno went. Out left.

Sit start from chunky two hand undercling straight up the wall immediately right of Dolphinian and left of the crumbly deep crack.

Sit start immediately right of the block and climb the steep face. Sharper holds than its neighbours.

Starting on the large rails in the middle of the overhang with the left hand on the lower one and right on the higher, move up and right along the rail before going up to the lip. Involves a fun dead point move to get out from under the boulder

From the smooth jugs, punch straight up to the lip and top out over razor blades.

Stay beneath the concrete bulge at all times. Pipes, cracks in concrete mortar and the crumbly concrete footholds are all off. Only use the edges and face of the stone blocks. Trust your feet and it goes alright

A climb on the boulder your back faces while climbing crown jewel cliff. Starts on the slopey holds at chest height on the village in the boulder. Moves out right to the top