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Routes in Sunshine Wall

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5 Moss Monster

Fun little kiddie climb sticking to the left of the Slab. Use double U-bolts set back from the edge.

Can be used as a Abseil

Top rope
6 Living on the Edge

Nice kiddie climb with a good sense of exposure.

Start same as Moss Monster. Once onto middle ledge following the right side of the slab and then curve back to the anchors

For now use the same anchors as Moss Monster and in the future this climb may have it's own anchors

Can be used for Abseiling.

Top rope
12 Bound To Ramble

The pure trad start to Stoneage Surgery. Start 2m left of SS using the obvious large dog-leg crack. Climb up onto ledge, traversing right to join SS at the chockstone. Finish as per SS

Set: Ranger Dave, 21 Oct 2018

FA: Ya Reeves, 6 Sep 2020

Trad 10m
15 Stoneage Surgery

Start under sharp triangular break. Utilise the horizontal crack (watch for lizards) and climb up using some funky moves and 2 fixed hangers til you reach a vertical crack starting at the chockstone. Finish at two fixed hangers left of the crack

Set: Ranger Dave, 4 Mar 2018

FA: warren sanders, 15 Dec 2019

Mixed trad 10m, 2
17 Leaping Lizards

Solid start, then a cruzy middle to a committing finish

Start 1m right of Stoneage Surgery following bolts straight up through a committing transition to the block. Finish at two FH's on right hand side.

Set: Ranger Dave, 21 Oct 2018

FA: Emma Joy Reardon, 15 Dec 2019

Sport 10m, 6
16 Stemming Snakes

Start the same as Leaping Lizards but after the 3rd hanger head into the gully, clipping the 5th and 6th hangers from MBIC. After this stem till you top out at the tree

There are future plans to better define the end of this route with it's own hangers.

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 21 Oct 2018

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 22 Oct 2018

Sport 12m, 5
17 My Brother In Chalk

Line of bolts left of boulder. Shared lower offs with "Lion Heart".

Set: Brendon Flanagan, 21 Oct 2018

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 22 Oct 2018

Sport 11m, 6
18 Lion in Chalk

Climb the start of My Brother in Chalk and clip the 3rd bolt with a long runner, then traverse right to join Lion Heart. An interesting traverse and makes slightly more sustained climbing.

FFA: Jamie Armitage & Josh Crawford, 30 Jan 2020

Sport 12m, 6
18 Lion Heart

Line of bolts starting right of boulder. Shared lower offs with "My Brother In Chalk".

Set: Ranger Dave, 21 Oct 2018

FA: Ranger Dave, 21 Oct 2018

Sport 12m, 7
19 TR 1

Start 1m right of Lion Heart and head straight up to finish at the U bolt anchors in the middle of the protruding block

Still in development

Top rope 13m
18 TR 2

Start 1m to the right of TR 1 in between the vertical crack lines. Head straight up, finishing on anchors to the right of the protruding block. Previously a TR problem, now bolted.

Sport 14m
18 Nuts then Bolts

Start 2m right of TR 2, at the section of the cave underneath a decent vertical crack line. Boulder through the reachy start, past the vertical crack and head up, finishing at bolts to the LEFT of the regrowing tree stump

CAUTION - Lots of loose rocks and chossy spots especially at the top

FA: warren sanders, 8 Mar 2020

Trad 14m
16 Woeful Wombats

Either traverse right from TR 2 or use a more powerful direct start, this route follows the system of cracks that heads up to finish at bolts to the right of the regrowing tree stump. Gear is adequate though rock quality is poor so discretion should be exercised when choosing placements.

Trad 14m
V3 Sloppy Sundays

Sitting start under cave lookers right of sunshine wall. Traverse along rim of cave

Boulder 3m

Showing all 14 routes.

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