Routes in North West for selected grade

Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo).

Start: Start ~50m R of BT.

The filthy top pitch is best avoided by finishing up 'Brandywine'

Start: Around the rib, 4m R of 'Brandywine'.

1. 32m (12) Up corner crack with some enjoyable jamming. Up chimney crack to ledge.

2. 30m (12) Up wide corner chimney, out and up through bushes and up final short corner chimney. Not pleasant.

The prominent corner between Sliding Dog Sandwich and the descent gully.

Pleasant.

Climb the easy-angled corner from the very bottom. Near the top, keep to the outer edge of the chimney to avoid loose rock.

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm.

Juggy bulges on left, stepping out below BR.

I climbed this in the mid-1990s and the bolts were completely rusted out and came out in my hand. I can't imagine they have got any better since.

Quite pleasant really.

Start up Future Past and climb directly up, keeping about 2 metres right of the blunt arete, to the top.

The first ascent of this cliff, long and wandering climb. Starts 50m L of Vertical Groove in R of face, near a small (now dead) tree close to the cliff.

Is an anagram of Tim Taylor.

Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake.

Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish.

Blunt left arête of buttress left of A Relative Overdose.

Excellent climbing on steep, orange rock. Very Arapilesian. Start from the cave on the right side of the main face. Step up left and climb seams and flakes.

The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs.

Climb the big corner to a ledge. Take the crack in the right wall until it rejoins the corner and continue up.

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

Bolts extremely hard to find.

A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced.

Up chimney to large chockstone at 30 metres. Go around overhang and up to ledge (2 old pitons, possible belay). Bridge widely to top.

Start as for 'Down Two, Then Left' but continue directly up the wall above to meet the left leaning diagonal. Follow this to the next ledge. Then step right and up wall above.

Retrospective reference to a Grampians cliff much to the north. 10 metres left of southern boulder is a narrow slab with ferns either side. Up slab to ledge, diagonally left to ledge. Up wall with a step right below top.

The easy line just left of Wayne Gretsky.

Crack on right side of wall, right of Art Of The Tart.

Up the buttress, finishing up "Middle Line" or scrambling off left.

Start: Smooth buttress just left of the first pitch of "Middle Line".

The very L side of the wall has distinctly easier ground. This route takes the line of least resistance across L and above the void to a steep finish on good holds.

Start left of the original and go straight up into the corner line. 11-1990

Best reached by abseiling in on 2 ropes from the native cherry trees at the Nth end of cliff.

From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks.

A steep jug haul up the right-hand tower.

Crack line at right end of ledge, in front of ‘nth’ boulder. Up crack and short left facing corner. Diagonally right up slabby steps. Headwall via left facing corner.

The arete left of Duck Off.

Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove.

Start: Start on the R side of the crag.

Watch out for the pile of bricks. Climb the middle of the central buttress, starting up the right-slanting corner.

This monster corner-chimney is not only good fun, but benefits from coming into shade early in the day, but last pitch is in full sun. Great 1st and last pitches with some scrap in the middle.

1. 36m (11) As for Salami P1.

2. 11m (5) traverse, through crack to the right to belay.

3. 10m (1-2) scramble up to small boulder next belay.

4. 15m (6) up small face to the right, follow up and around left to overhang and ledge.

5. 25m (12) from end (rightmost) overhang, crux first move out over the overhang for an awesome finish.

Walk off the back to finish and down trail to left.

The first crack-line to a ledge, then steeply but easily.

Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab.

An early climb here but not a classic. Sort of follows the same feature as 'Rameses' with variations.

Start: Start as for 'Rameses'.

1. 27m (-) Climb the flake-crack past the tree and under a chockstone to another tree.

2. 24m (-) Left wall of corner for 5 metres then onto right wall and up to tree on ledge.

3. 12m (-) From right end of ledge move right, up crack then belly-crawl and 3 metres right to belay.

4. 24m (12) Go 6 metres up crack just left of belay. Step left onto face and up to move right at overhang into chimney. Up to top of chimney.

5. 15m (-) Corner

6. 30m (-) Buttress above.

Start a few meters left of Fanstasm. Step off block and straight up face passing a heart shaped flake. Alan Hope, Bill Andrews Jan 1987

Only worthwhile crack and is on left side of a steep, clean wall. Scramble up to a terrace to start. Climb crack and abseil from tree.

Arete 2m right of "Chosen One". Start either side of the arete and blast straight up.

Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks.

The slick chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the Clytemnaestra Buttress.

Useless.

Start about 15 metres right of Masters Apprentices.

Take the left-hand line to a large ledge. Abseil from shaky tree or finish easily up the crack behind.

Not bad. 80m R of BIB is a pinnacle [landmark]. Go up gully just L of this for 25m to buttress on R wall between 2 large cracks. Go 2m up R crack then up and L in R facing flake. Climb prominent L crack in steepening and bulge above.

High up on the hill above Don't Be Denied is a mossy wall, the left of three buttresses The crack on this is worthless. On the next buttress down right from this climb the pedestal and short corner 5 metres right of the guano-stained crack.

After the left-leaning corner, continue over the bulge and straight up. Good rock, good gear. This route assumes the original veered left below the bulge as per the description.

Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!

1. 25m (4) As for Siren

2. 35m (8) As for Siren

3. 35m (8) As for Siren

4. 50m (12) Brilliant corner as for Siren but instead of stopping at the belay at 25m, continue up and step right through the rooflet and on to more glorious corner above. Belay on major ledge. From here either walk of left or...

5. 10m (11) Walk left along the ledge to the small right-facing corner and finish up this for full value.

Starts a few meters right of Fantasm. Climb past twin orange ribs and up. FA: Allan Hope, Bill Andrews Jan 1985

Corner to the roof, go left for 3 metres then straight up the wall.

Start: Start at the corner-crack below the roof at the left end of the right buttress.

The pinnacle behind this has been dubbed Jeff Kennett's Buttocks.

Line up left end of wall.

The L-facing corner, curving L at the end.

Start: Find this as described above.

Not destined to be a classic.

Start: Scrubby L slanting crack just R of MA.

1. 25m (12) Up scrubby crack to tree.

2. 39m (12) Chimney then loose blocks to foot of corner.

3. 20m (10) Corner and crack

An outstanding route. Start at the right side of the wall, just before the undercut section.

1. 30m 12 Traverse right on the lip of the undercut to the arete, Straight up the arete to a ledge on the right.

2. 25m Move left off the ledge and climb the starting corner and the continuation crack to the top.

Makes Melancholia independent of Bullfrog. Climb arete left of Bullfrog's corner, moving onto wall left of arete as soon as possible. Up delightful juggy grey wall to belay at left end of roof.

Instead of scrambling up to the top of Pharos, climb straight up from the DBB of FC. Plenty of gear and good belay on top around a boulder

A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line!

Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.

1. 45m (12) Up the fading crack to a ledge, traverse left past an old carrot bolt and climb the corner to small ledge.

2. 17m (8) Up the rest of the corner to base of chimney

3. 31m (12) Up the chimney without taking the detour. Belay just above

4. 18m (8) A bouldery start leads to an easier finish.

This is the climb that puts the "F" back into grade 12. 'Steep' and sustained and requiring route-finding ability. Pay close attention to the description especially on the third and fourth pitches. Pitches 1 & 2 are best combined because of the poor belay options but great care will need to be taken with drag with lots of slings required.

Start: The line 6 metres right of 'Diane' which is clearly initialled D. To There are no longer usable initials at the base of climb, but just to the right are clear initials KK.

1. 24m (12) Climb the line which leads into a steep corner. Up this until it eases to a small stance below a crack on the right wall.

2. 24m (11) This pitch is not as well protected as the rest of the climb. Up to the foot of a small flaring chimney where there is a useless old peg. Go 2 metres up chimney then boldly traverse right for 5 metres. Go up past another useless old peg to a good ledge. There is a large dead tree in this vicinity, don't belay on it.

3. 20m (10) On up the line for 15 metres (do not go too high) then step right to the foot of a corner.

4. 21m (11) Traverse 3 metres right then up scrubby gully to a ledge in the corner. Steeply up corner and belay on the right. Not a great pitch.

5. 31m (9) Climb up wall for 5 metres and then go right into obvious crack which veers up right.

Short crack then wall.

Start: Start 33m R of PoP, on R side of big slabby area, 3m L of the first chimney.

Up line to arete, follow the arete to the horizontal break, traverse left (continuing up arete from break is grade 14) then to top.

Start: Start at the diagonal 2 metres from the left arete of the little wall..

Straight up 8 metres right of One Man Show

Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'.

The obvious chimney which appears to lead directly into The Protege when viewed from near Uncle Charlie. Approach past the left end of the Furphy Wall,

Climb the chimney to the roof. Step right and bridge up the continuation.

The arete. Start at the second last (and highest) pinnacle near the top of Organ Pipes Gully.

A Hyper-classic Choss Pile? Up black wall left of MM and then V groove above

You'd need at least a bottle of rum in you to even imagine that this was worth climbing.

Start: 2m R of WYSIWYG big corner line. Marked with an X, possibly as some kind of warning.

1. 40m (12) Vegetated line.

2. 50m (12) More of the same only worse. Up the hideous cleft above.

Start directly below the concavity. Straight up the wall taking the vague rib just right of the central concavity

P1 (30m, 7) The landmark easy angled corner bounding the L side of the slabs. It is possible to escape to rap off L or R from here

P2 (35m, 12) Up and R to R leaning flake, up just L dirty gully, traversing [dangerous and unprotected] across the gully high up to join Jihad Jack just below its last bolt. Up to DBB of JJ. Abseil descent.

Start 25 metres right of Krak de Chevaliers around the right arete of the major buttress. Climb the recessed chimney corner. A very old fashioned outing.