Routes as trad in Mount Frankland

FA was a solo. Go up obvious line of weakness at the left end of slab and right of Flash. Crux is at half height where weakness blanks out and delicate climbing on crystals is required.

FA was a solo. Start at small cairn 10m left of drainage line between Rough Justice and Leaves in the Gutter. Climb steepening wall up pockets to gain left trending pocketed seam. Crux is steep section at 10m.

The obvious and quite desperate finger to fist jamming crack on the small wall up right of the moss-streaked slab.

Start 15m left of Hannibal.

1. 47m (18): Up past 11 bolts then gear (0.5 cam) in the corner L of Hannibal. DBB.

2. 30m (10): Continue up blocks to top.

As for Hannibal to the third bolt, then left and up the crack on the side of the elephant's trunk and head.

An excellent and sustained climb straight up the middle of the trunk. Protected with six bolts (hangers needed), wires and cams.

A Western Australian classic and a right of passage for all slab connoisseurs. Tricky move off the ground then cruise up past slots (medium cams) before heading up the trunk proper. A bit run out before the anchor but if you made it that far you will be fine on the runout.

1. 32m (20): Straight up the slab of the elephant's trunk, with carrot bolts and natural gear. From second bolt, continue past three more bolts to reach overlap. DBB on ledge above the overlap. Rap rings/chains added Dec 2023 courtesy of CAWA. A 60m rope might just get you back down, be very careful our 70m was close.

2. 30m (17): Continue straight up. No pro for the first 8m. Finish up water runnel at rear of sloping ledge and belay near the bushes. Scramble to top.

This is a variation to the finish of Hannibal. It has a longer first pitch and a great position up the side of the 'trunk'.

1. 50m (20): As for Hannibal to the 5th bolt, then diagonally right past 4 FHs to rap anchor.

2. 30m (18): Up steep slab trending right past 2 FHs then scramble to the top.

Better than it looks! Starts about 15m right of Hannibal below a series of water pockets.

1. 42m (14): Follow pockets up the base of the wall forming the right side of the trunk. Move tight around the corner and continue for 8m and build belay in vegetated crack at the base of the wall on the left.

2. 20m (16): Continue up slab just left of wall until the angle steepens the move right up slab to reach right trending crack. Follow crack to overlap and straight up sloping ramp and belay. Scramble to top.

A well protected, sustained and enjoyable face. Start up black slab 10m L of Ian's Lost Chance. Bolts (hangers required) plus medium nuts and cams.

1. 35m (16): Up right trending cracks (nut placements) and up slab past 7 bolts to sloping ledge and DBB.

2. 35m (16): Up left to overlap to bulge then continue right following bolts. Up dinner plate holds to ledge and DBB.

3. 25m (12): Trend left past natural pro to short headwall and up slab. 4 bolts to DBB.

Need 8 bolt plates and 9 draws plus nuts.

Descent note: Can be done with a 60m rope, although last rap is 31m . Otherwise walk to top of mountain.

1. 40m (14): The vegetated right-trending gully and crack.

2. 50m (15): Traverse left then up the flaring crack.

Probably the longest route possible at Mount Frankland. The first pitch is a good access route to The Terrace.

1. 40m (16): Straight up past 5 bolts and natural gear to DBB and rap anchor on The Terrace. Three stars for this pitch. Long and consistent slabbing at the grade with a few bits that will have you thinking. With the right mindset there are foot jugs where you need them and it's a cruise. If your out of form on granite slabs it WILL be memorable.

2. 27m (14): From left side of The Terrace, climb straight up for 3m to a bolt then traverse left along weakness towards and obvious indentation. Move up to another bolt, and continue up slightly leftward to belay on left side of Wreckage Ledge (using single bolt + natural gear).

3. 50m (10): Straight up, trending slightly left for 50m. Belay in a convenient crack. All natural gear.

4. 35m (4): Solo to top

Walk past main wall for a further 2 mins till you are bellow an obvious roof flake 20m above path. Gear through roof, then 3 bolts.

A great way to reach the summit from The Terrace.

1. 35m (18): 5 bolts to DBB on Wreckage Ledge. Rather awkward first move which is one of those things that you will either do first time no worries. Or you will huff and puff and scratch at the rock wondering what goes. Sensibly bolted and a nice pitch.

2. 30m (15): 3 bolts and large cams to belay on small ledge. Easy for 15.

3. 30m (9): Unprotected scramble to top.

As for 'Three Sheep Twice a Day' to its second bolt, then trend right up a poorly-protected seam. Finish as for Butter Fingers.

Fine face climbing up past 3 bolts to medium cams in a groove/flake where the difficultly eases. It is possible to clip a 4th bolt after the cams if you want to your right, before running it out to on Wreckage Ledge. Traverse into the line from the left as the start is undercut. Holds can be tricky to spot but they are there and nice and positive. Probably a grade 21 tick if you do it ground up without knowing where the holds are. 3rd bolt was a rusty galv expansion, but replaced in Dec 2023 with a stainless expansion and new hanger.

If you are getting bored of slab climbing. Left-leaning crack finishing on the Wreckage Ledge.

Start 10m right of 'Silence of the Cams' below right hand end of horizontal crack. Up to carrot and follow crack with gear. Up runnel to rap anchors.

Starts 7m right of Drop Bears Garden. Climb the face and water runnel with 5 P-bolts. Can use a #3 cam. Finish on lower-offs for start of Frankenstein and Dreaded Head. A good approach pitch to Frankenstein and Dead Head.

The obvious corner on the right side of Wreckage Ledge. Finish on upper slab.

A bit different to the other Mount Frankland climbing!

1. 25m (21): Ape out roof on natural pro to difficult moves on around lip and onto wall using 3 bolts. Belay below upper slab using a thread and crack. Can be easier to rap to bolts and belay from there.

2. 30m (12): Either climb slab to obvious flake (1 bolt), or solo just left of flake to top.

Start from a semi-hanging belay beneath large roof. Up through the roof on big holds and climb face above.

A crag classic. Exposed and juggy up the obvious crack system 3m right of Quite Frankly. Set up hanging belay under overhanging blocks below crack.

1. 20m (19): Climb overhanging blocky knobs and crack with increasing exposure. A hard move to exit crack, then go straight up to belay on ledge. #4 friend useful for pro.

2. 30m (14): Climb up the blocks on left edge of ledge to finish on summit.

Great climb! From belay, move up and left 3m and blast up wall past 3 bolts (last bolt needs a hanger) and natural gear. Finish on large flake and move right to belay chain and lower off.

Absolutely brilliant! Climb the slightly overhanging headwall up cracks, through scoops and over the roof to finish at lower-off chains. Well protected with 5 bolts and natural gear.

The obvious mossy corner on the right side of The Terrace.

1. 20m (16): Climb the mossy corner to belay on good rock below vertical crack.

2. 30m (16): Climb vertical crack and watch it deteriorate into a mossy and wet grovel. Move slightly right to finish

A sustained and superb climb starting at small left facing corner. Climb past 8 bolts and various natural gear. #4 friend after second bolt is useful.

Fine moves up wall. Start 5m right of At the Corner. Natural gear + 3 bolts. #4 friend useful in overlap protecting final moves.

Start on left side of dark streak, 6m right of Uncle Goby and climb the right-facing corner, moving left then back right to vague, vertical dyke.

Hard start, and easy finish. Small wires + 4 bolts.

Superb face climbing. Small edges and long moves past the first 2 bolts make this climb excellent. The crux is pulling through the final overlap.

Similar, but slightly easier than Cowlick. A flake has gone missing near second bolt, making climb considerably more difficult.

Well protected and good fun. Starts 10m right of Jugular where it is easy to step on the wall. The climb trends left past 7 FHs and some natural gear. Same finish as Jugular once overlap is reached. Traverse 15m right to lower-offs.

A popular route as it is relatively sustained and a little run out. A steep bouldery start about 3m right of Thieves Like The Sun.

This route is the rightmost route on the Main Face.

1. 22m (19): Start at obvious right facing corner 20m up The Terrace. Up crack then ape left across roof on good cams. Continue past various natural pro and a bolt to DBB.

2. 22m (19): Directly up slab past 4 bolts to slots which take cams. Exit left to DBB.

The rightward diagonal crack on the boulder on the ledge above Jugular. A nice finishing pitch for the Main Face climbs..