Ascents in Bluff Mountain as Clean

Extremely hard to find the base of the climb (took us about 2 hours) so didn't start climbing until about 11am but thankfully still managed to top out before sunset. Pitch 4 out on the wing was definitely the money pitch. Brilliant day out!!

Never been so intimidated by a climb before in my life but we did it! Stayed at Dow's Camp overnight and sussed out the approach beforehand for efficiency's sake. Needn't have worried though, the climber's track from camp is well-marked with cairns and easy to follow. Ended up being a great day out in a phenomenal location, although the climbing didn't quite live up to mega-classic expectations. Done with 50m doubles but would probably recommend 60m to allow for any accidental off-route wanderings. Started at sunrise, when the cliff was drenched in gorgeous orange light.

P1 - Assuming we did start in the right place (weren't 100% sure, despite the description), this was nothing to write home about and a bit vegetated too. The tat is just visible from the ground, with an obvious stance to belay just above it.

P2 - Second and definitely a highlight, some quality moves through the corner systems. Solid for 18 but still easily manageable.

P3 - As awkward as expected for a sideways abseil. If using 50m ropes, you'll want to set up the anchor as soon as you reach the base of the wing, otherwise you potentially won't reach the next belay. Used the rap rope in the anchor as previously recommended.

P4 - Another highlight. Climbing wasn't quite as good as hoped for, but the position was absolutely crazy and the orange wing is just spectacular. Bit of a rope stretcher but just made it.

P5 - Second. Surprisingly nice! Rock quality and gear were both good.

P6 and 7 - Fairly average and unremarkable, following a clear groove.

P8 - As easy as promised thankfully, only placed 3 bits of gear. Lovely view from the very top belay!

All up, about 9 hours camp to camp. Route finding was pretty straightforward if you knew what you were looking for; we took a double rack of BD 0.3-3 plus a 4 and lots of wires which was easily enough. Psyched to have done this!

Does it count as a first ascent if you just didn't ever manage to get on to the climb you wanted to do? Started in the wrong place and never ended up on the route, ultimately climbing a fairly cool line between Bastion and Corinth and eventually arriving at a bolt on the sloping ledge that i think is the belay at the end of Corinth's fourth pitch. Continued on passing about 20m of abandoned rope and traversing right off of the line of Corinth. We bumbled our way onward and eventually topped out the cliff after what was a minor epic in a very exposed location, climbing much harder than anticipated and sketching out a fair bit. Swinging leads with Harry this was altogether a wild experience for our second day in the Bungles!!

P1 only. Jimbo led. Too cold. Unfinished business. Trad.

not that easy or we changed the route a bit

Superb - a big day out!