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The Needle

The Needle is readily identified from the Grand High Tops as the rocky spire E of Belougery Spire. This is the smallest of the four major spires in the park, being about 60 m high. Although Eric Dark, Dot English and party attempted this peak in 1936, they were unsuccessful and the first recorded ascent was by members of the University of New England Mountaineering Club in 1959.

Climbs are described anticlockwise from SW Arete.

8 The Climb

Short and pleasant. The original descent route. Start at the left hand end of the east face. Scramble up onto large ledge.

  1. 9m Up corner at right hand end of ledge to obvious stance.

  2. 30m There are two ribs to choose from, the left being trickier.

11 Colour-blind

Start just L of middle of E Face, L of tree and 2 m L of abseil gully. Overlapping crack for 15m, then R to vegetated crack. Up.

11 Safe Bet

The next major line R is quite vegetated. This is the E Face abseil descent route.

Small pillar just R of abseil gully, then L side of loose-looking arete.

12 Dreaming

Start at crack 1 m L of Optical Illusion. Crack in ramp for 12 m, then R and up vegetated crack on R of loose-looking arete/prow. Poor rock.

13 Optical Illusion

Crack 1 m L of Deception; loose rock and grass.

12 Deception

Start on east face, 1.5 m left of arete. Thin, twin cracks.

14 Northern Lights

Pleasant and well protected. Start at clean arete on N side. This is the first climb reached when approaching from sealed road to TV tower. Overhanging start, then past bolt to ledge. Continue up arete past three bolts to bolt belay on L.

16 Suns and Stars

Crack in ramp on W side of N arete, to join Northern LIghts at three-quarters height.

22 M1 Northern Gusto

Groove in middle of clean W Face. Bolts. Two rests.

19 Eugowra

Sustained and beautiful; best line on cliff. Crack between two bolted routes on W Face.

19 Line of Stars

Line 1 m R of Eugowra. Bolts.

15 Cold Summer Day

Wide crack L of The Kiruna Crooner with large chockstone at one-third height.

21 The Kiruna Crooner

Start 40m R of Northern Lights, in middle of W Face below wide crack on R of overhanging face split by three cracks. Up R to bolt, then wall and arete to top of pillar (six bolts; small wires and cams on R side of arete at half-height and at top). Over boulder, then step across wide crack. Up to ledge, bolt belay.

14 Forgotten Climb

Broken line on NW corner.

16 Windy Ways

Start in middle of W Face, just R of small arete. Up 5 m, then L to arete. Arete (poor rock), then L into crack/corner.

15 Unnamed Climb

Start at old bolt at base of roof-capped corner a few m round L of Ramshead South.

1-2) The line.

12 Ramshead South

Start at crack on lowest rib of SW Face.

  1. 15m Up crack then through squeeze hole.

  2. 21m The crack on the righthand side of gully past bolts. Bolt belay.

  3. 21m Scramble up right.

18 Irish Nightmare

Start at R corner at base of S Buttress.

1-3) Corner to chockstone, then up nose. Regain corner after 10 m, then up to stance. L to nose, then face to loose ground (poor rock).

Showing all 19 nodes.

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