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Routes as trad in Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
18 R.S.

The striking corner on the centre left of the Big Banana Buttress.

  1. 18 Up overhanging corner to belay in groove where angle eases.

  2. Easy bridging to windblown cave with UB belay.

  3. Up wide roof crack and corner to UB or tree belay.

Best if pitch 1 and 2 are combined or done as one monster pitch saving small cams till the end.

FA: TR - Ben Ewald, 1978

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers (alt), 1982

Trad 45m, 3
19 Interlude

Climb RS for a few metres then lunge right, across the hanging wall to a wide break, and join Apple Arete near it's first belay.

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1985

Trad 10m
18 Apple Arete

Climb the right arete of RS for a few metres then swing right to belay. Step back left and climb the arete past 2 bolts, then follow the groove to a pedestal belay on the left. Take medium cams. Abseil off.

FA: John Wilde & Dave Gray, 1983

Mixed trad 27m, 3
16 Big Bananna

From the top of 5 Finger Exercise, traverse left to climb the thin corner, followed by a groove to the a double bolt belay on a pedestal.

FA: David Gray, 1982

Mixed trad 20m, 1
22 Shades (Direct)

Climb the orange wall past a bolt left of the left arete of Stopper, to join The Future's So Bright.

FA: David Gray & Merv Liddel, 1987

Mixed trad 17m, 5
22 The Future's so Bright

A low level traverse across the left wall of Stopper leads past the arete to horizontal breaks, from here, the wall above is climbed direct past 2 bolts to an exit crack and bolt belay

FA: David Gray, John Wilde, Darrin Gray & Jimmy Gilbert, 1986

Mixed trad 15m, 3
13 Shick

"A close shave", climb the juggy arete right of New Horizons, traversing left above a friend break to easier ground. Exit to the terrace.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1982

Trad 18m
22 Two Finger Exercise

Boulder the wall to a bolt and mantle then continue via a second bolt and thin crack.

FA: John Wilde & James Cowmeadow, 1985

Mixed trad 12m, 2
14 Five Finger Exercise

You used to able to bridge up the tree but it's a bit harder now that the tree is dead. Move up then move left past a bolt and flake to a pocketed traverse line. Step right to a large flake, which is followed to a groove and wall to finish at the large tree.

FA: David Gray & Martin Cook, 1982

Mixed trad 14m, 1
12 Five Fingers

At the Five Finger Exercise traverse, move left to a ramp system, which is followed to rejoin FFE.

FA: David Gray, 1982

Mixed trad 14m, 1
18 Longreach Crack

The cracked arete just right of 'Five Fingers'.

Trad 12m
14 Plebe's Plummet

Wall past a bolt.

FA: Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1984

Mixed trad 12m, 1
16 Wall to Thin Crack

Boulder the wall then continue above the break with a thin crack for protection.

Trad 10m
15 Digital Extraction

The flake at the right end of the wall with an optional bolt out right on the wall.

FA: David Gray & Robert Stow, 1982

Mixed trad 6m, 1

Showing all 14 routes.

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