Nodes in Middle Crag

Some of the best rock on the cliff can be found on this compact crag. Middle Crag is the section of fine grained rock, above Lower Crag and features the square cut "Colour Card Wall".

Left around the arete from DOG. Step off block onto wall, traversing left at midway pockets to flake then up, between the orchids. DBB

The arete at the far left hand edge of Middle Crag, 40 m left of IRBC, is climbed past bolts to a DBB. Originally had only 2 bolts, rebolted 2021.

Follow RBs 2m R of arete straight up to balancy move at anchors

Start up 'Prickles' but move right via extra bolt to finish on anchors of 'Marmite'. The name is that of the ubiquitous Watagans bush that Monkeyface climbers are only too familiar with, removing tiny thorns for days after an encounter

Start 2m left of Vengeance, following RBs through pockets to flake then up overhang. Anchors to the left

A thin crack in the back of a flare, widening to fingers. Head right at top when the vegetation gets too much. Belay as for Vengemite.

Wall and groove right of Vengeance with 4 rings to double ring bolt belay.

Start just left of CAY directly up wall to get grade. Easier if crack is used

A straight forward corner 4m right of Vengeance. Head right to anchors of Davafly

The middle of the slab right of Coming At Ya. Start from top of block, stick clip first bolt. DBB

Step right off block then up arete before heading left to shared anchors with Davafly

Climb the bottomless corner 10m right of Commin’ At Ya.

Climb the left wall of Pickle's Retreat.

Up the finger crack, past pod, to tree belay.

Boulder the wall between Pickle's Retreat and Grunt 'n' Shove past a bolt.

The awkward and obvious chimney.

Nice moves up arete 3m left of Follow the Leader. DUBB. Start in chimney.

Follow the line of u bolts around a V groove and some horizontal breaks to the top. First bolt is low, so be careful clipping the second or stick clip. Mind the tree. Originally done as top rope, got bolted.

Swing up the overhang climbing the left side of the arete to finish. Dodgy rock and gear

The steep wall, slinging a flake/jug enroute (heavy biner to keep it there). DBB now, so good to top rope if you do Brand X

Climb the offwidth crack to DBB

Onto block and up the overhung honeycombed wall to slab finish. Don’t skimp on final moves if tall.

Start as for CAC but go straight up via flakes to tricky finish and DBB. Optional cam at start, or stick clip. The route originally mantled through the conglomerate band to finish, new anchors placed below this which suits a right variant finish.

Climb the diagonal crack 4m right of Brand X to the horizontal break then continue up twin cracks to DBB shared with CT. A variant exited in the corner.

Boulder the wall right of 'Crimson & Clover' past a ring bolt, stick clip recommended. Finish up crack to DBB. Originally graded 16.

The thin crack left of corner into offwidth up high. Finish at shared DBB with S

The corner crack, just right of Marginal Existence. Try it without bridging. DBB

Take the crack right of the corner and left of Visage, trending right to DUBB above Visage

The pleasant slab, past 2 RB and finger size cams to a DUBB.

The right hand route up the slab. Carefully up to the bolt, then directly to DUBB.

Carefully climb the right hand arete of the Double Blank Slab, using either side of the arete.

The easy angled corner system, immediately left of the Colour Card wall

After the initial corner of Kryptos,, climb diagonally right to finish up I'd Rather be Canoeing and DUBB ( on ledge).

Supersedes 'Cryptic Crossing' by climbing the narrow wall between Kryptos and I'd Rather be Canoeing, past a bolt, to finish on the arete. One RB and a #4 cam is the only gear.

A good line. The arete right of Kryptos is approached from the right and climbed past nut and friend runners to a double bolt belay

A companion route to I'd Rather be Canoeing, starting a metre right and heading directly up the wall, with sparse protection, trending toward the arete to finish.

Climb straight up the centre of the face, passing horizontal pods for gear up to two ring bolts. Finish directly up with difficulty. Originally graded 20 but crux holds have eroded from edges to slopers so its more like a 21.

A hard variant. From the first bolt on Colour Card (clipping the second is advisable), step right the lurch up the thin wall directly (slopes and underclings)

Start as for 'Colour Card' up the wall to clip its first bolt then traverse left to arete to meet "Wall of Horrors". (The wimps variant to colour card)

Climb the Marmalade crack, then continue up the arete above, past 2 RBs to mantle finish and DBB

"A different sort of Jamb" Take the prominent diagonal crack, right of Colour Card, then finish diagonally rightwards across the overlap to a tree belay as for WV

Ascends the seam, a metre or so right of Marmalade, then takes the obvious crack /corner finish straight up to DBB on top of Asparagus.

Start 1m left of '3rd Runner' corner to roof, and straight up arête past bolt to tree.

Good laybacking up the corner. Tree belay.

Steep layaways up the left side of the knife edged arete.

The access chimney behind the block.

Climb the square cut arete behind the tree, a metre right of Little One past RB.

Flake and crack system 3m right of Static Dynamic, to DBB.

Classic wall/slab. Start just left of the corner (Orchward), 2m right of Science Fiction. Balance climbing leads past 2 RBS to a horizontal break. Move left onto the bulge for the better finish.

Gully & chimney immediately right of Fine Time.

Start as for Orchward, then traverse right at 4m to the arete and up to a bolt belay.

The Napotiliano Arete from the ground, passing a bolt.

Start on the right of the orange scoop, 4m right of 'Napotiliano', stepping right at the roof to finish up 'Napotiliano'.

"A right royal route". Start at the short corner 7m right of 'Minder Binder'.

Climb the twin cracks 8m right of Cosmic Corgi.

The access corner with chipped holds, bolts and chains.

The overhung right facing corner 10m right of BHP. Climb the holes to step left at the roof.

The left facing corner, 3m right of Pot Holed.