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Route as trad in The Wars of the Roses

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
20 The Wars of the Roses

Start 15m right of S.

  1. 22m Corner to base of corner.

  2. 15m Corner to roof.

  3. 15m (20) Left through roof.

  4. 20m Corner to top.

A mammoth line. The first pitch is the quintessential corner crack - with great pro and moves and can be done as a classic pitch in its own right. Pitch 2 has some moments finding way through hanging blocks to nice exposed seats on top of blocks under roof with bomber belay gear a move higher. Pitch 3 is exhilarating and a must do adventure. Pitch 4 starts up a clean corner crack , onto a ledge, pull over the steep bulge and up to a nice belay.

Rap beta: Using the tree with slings, from the top a 50m rap to the top of P1. Another 20m rap from there to the ground.

FA: Pete Giles, Keith Bell & John Fantini, 1974

FFA: Roland Pauligk & Pete Canning, 1975

Trad 72m, 4

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