Routes as trad in South Face

4m left of 'Slip Slab Slop'

2 to 3 pieces needed... Nice rock anchor (bollard) at the top

Straight up the crack with the undercut start. Immediately left of Slip Slab Slop.

Scramble up the corner left of Atheists Arete, finishing at the Slip Slab Slop anchors.

Crack 3m left of "Archer's Arc".

Use Shadow Lower-offs. Not a bad crack. Natural pro. Not a bad climb to learn the finer art of cam placement. Another one of those bouldery starts then 3 layback moves to glory.

If you mantle you can gain access to the belayer ring bolts and use them to make a mixed multi-pitch, linking to HappyCow Cheese.

Natural Pro. The off-width. Double carrot anchor.

Start 2m to the right of Dental Floss Vigilante. Up to the sus looking hold then out the roof and out left to the finish. Bad pro.

The layback leading to a gut wrenching offwidth. Not recommended for pussies. Up the crack with poor pro to ledge. From the ledge climb the short wall behind the arete (2 carrots)

Very sandy, not a recommended lead. BAD PRO. The right side of the overhung arete to finish as for Brainsnapper Direct Variant.

The crack. Natural pro. Start at the undercut hand crack. Climb till you hit the ledge, then take your pick of the two cracks, just climb to the top.

No pro. Pretty poor climb. Start to the left of the chimney. Jugs up the overhang left and up. Step back right and up the choss. Originally done to full height (20m).

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

The chimney. Natural pro. Up the chimney and step left. Up the twin cracks as for Radioactive Banana.

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

Start 1m right of the chimney. Up the flake to overhang and follow the lip of the overhang to ledge. Up final wall to top.

[2012 Nov - LO's added] The corner crack 2m to the right of Dyno To Death. Natural pro. Use LOs or up to the bushy ledge, then up final easy 3m corner to the base of "Archer's Arc".

A nice little arete. Start just to the right of Hobo Chang. Clip 1st bolt from tree, then start down at the ledge. Up arete passing 2nd bolt to ledge.

Natural pro. Bridge up the corner crack. A ledge step left and up the wall to the top.

The arete 1m to the right or Renaissance. Deviously (?) up the arete to ledge. Up easy wall past another carrot.

Start 2m to the right of Daves Dilema. Climb the left crack to the ledge then up the wall above to carrot. Then as for Daves Dilemma.

As the name says. Start 1m right of Cadabra Eyes.

Start 3m right of High Stepping. Follow the creaking carrots up the crappy looking wall.

Start 1m right of Weeping Wall. Climb the arete at the groove and move left into Weeping Wall near the top after the roof. From the ledge move 3m right and up the dark wall past 3 carrots.

Up the easy crack, from the bottom to 1st ledge. Tree belay. Traverse left to the crack left of the arete climb (down and going , 2nd pitch).

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route for 60m rope]

Mixed climbing. Starts on the left side of the slab, right of Kindergarten. Up the slab at edge (past old piton) to 1st ledge. Up slab wall to 2nd ledge and 2 belay bolts. 2nd pitch = Up the right face (3 bolts) of the arete to the top RB's.

The crack to the right of Kindergarten.

1. As for Travail to end of traverse and bolt on arete

2. Along Traverse line rightwards to cave, bolt belay

3. Up the cut-off cave to the top.

The thin crack. Marked EP. Natural pro. Jamb the crack and stem up the sides...mmm nice :?/ Up the crack in arete from ledge.

Take your trad gear. 2m to the right of El Packo in the big arsed crack. Face climb the crack then up the easy crack at the top. One lone carrot bolt on top arete section for fixed protection.

Starts 3m right of Rastus. Up on jugs past carrot. Continue straight up wall past 2nd carrot and up to the top. Original route ("Chottomati") started as for Runaway corner then left onto face.

Not very good. Start at the crack a meter right of Chottomati Direct. Climb the chimney to the roof, over this then up the corner to ledge. Up the final corner.

Start 1m right of Chottomati Direct. 1/ Up the crack around roof (crux) and cracks above to ledge. 2/ Up the corner.

Somewhere between MM and J, seems a bit hard to access. 1) Up a slab around the roof, out right and up grooves to top of ledge. 2) Up corner to top.

Natural pro. Not popular but a nice climb. Multi pitch with excellent positions. Start at the J.

1. 24m It might be an idea to get your belayer up on the small ledge before you traverse out on the utter crap at the start of this climb. A couple of highsteps will get you to a large horn. Sling this to avoid the 15 ft grounder! Very easy moves up slab near the nose on better rock. Up groove to ledge and left to large tree belay.

2. 14m Follow crack or wall tending right to belay beneath the final roof (DRB).

3. Crux 7m Up short corner to incut hand traverse left under roof. Contorted exit to belay at the top.

Start around right from the J and the jamb crack.

1. 25m (17) Up the crack, through the roof on the left into the groove of Jaunt. Up a move or two and up the off width to a ledge.

2. 20m (17) Easy climbing as for Jaunt, then out right to the top at the roof.

Almost under the South Lookout there is a 40m diagonal crack through a bulge. Up the crack and straight up wall to ledge. Up soaring hand crack above to anchor.

Originally lead in 3 pitches. Recommended to rap in 10m left of the main South Lookout (at the double rings at the small lookout). THE line of the cliff, splitting the roof almost under the south face lookout. Original access is a walk in from the South Face.

1. (18) Up the easy dubious (seeping and loose sand) rock to beneath the 5m ceiling crack.

2. (24) Saunter out the ceiling to an off width move around the lip to a hanging belay.

3. (21) The thinner crack above to the top.