Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
2 laps. 55 days off rock, wrist brace on. Skin hurts, wrist seemed to survive, just avoided mantles.
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19 | ★★ Phoenix | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Felt a bit pumped, not surprising I suppose
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15 | ★ Stingray | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
2 laps
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20 | ★ B | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt, good friction today.
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
21 | ★ Gastric | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Some worthwhile committing moves on this off poor holds. Climbs completely independent of route to left to same anchors
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18 | ★ Show Bag | 13m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt. The first bolt position is not in a good location for this route, it works better for Gastric. Hard start for grade.
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20 | ★ Opium | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
My left hand strayed towards the HS holds down low, as the right heel, lay off sloper to side pull felt more 25 for my height, and still tough up top. Not sure where the wires go, would be shallow placements in a flake I think- would be better with extra bolt and a second anchor bolt
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15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Phoenix | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Sharon Stone | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, lovely shady and breezy conditions after midday
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Wed 10th May 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
22 | ★ Putting shame in your game | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
With the proximity of the trees I no longer feel comfortable leading this. Feels contrived, due to how close tree is to cliff
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18 | ★ So wat’cha want | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
May have improved with traffic. Quite good, except for whomever coated each hold with chalk- totally unnecessary and reduces friction. Single bolt anchor up top. May be a good area to do the rebolting and fix anchor arrangement.
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16 | ★ The maestro | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Quite interesting for the grade. Rpt, from aeons ago.
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Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
19 | ★ Chips Ahoy | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt. Despite name I can’t see any chips on this. The tree is a disincentive to lead this one. Best to set anchor before climbing.
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15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Phoenix | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Sharon Stone | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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21 | ★★ Wiggle It Just A Little Bit — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Really needs a bolt added, the cam placement can get quite sandy, hardest move of day at start
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21 | ★ Pauls Project / C | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt. Easier than the 20, and some of the 19s I think.
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15 | ★ Stingray | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★ B | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt. One very thin move, needed a good clean.
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16 | ★ NS | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Nice
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Sat 4th Dec 2021 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sharon Stone | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
15 | ★ Stingray | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Stopped here until it started to rain, and wore out my beginner accomplice today.
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15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★ B | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
21 | ★★ Wiggle It Just A Little Bit | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ NS | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Phoenix | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 15th Oct 2020 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House Main Wall | ||||||
V2 | ★ Trail Blazer | |||||
V1 | ★ Childs Play | |||||
V3 | ★ These Children Must be Sex Tables | |||||
Tue 16th Jan 2018 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House Odyssey Block | ||||||
V3 | Backyard cricket | 3m | ||||
Seems to have had some traffic but not listed in ACA photo guide
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V0 | Backyard BBQ | 2m | ||||
V0- | Odyssey | 4m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Rare Taste | 4m | ||||
Whoever graded these mustn't like slabs. Might scrape in at 5.7 on Squamish granite
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V2 | ★★ Sneaky Peek | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★★ Bubble Gum | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★★ Afternoon Delight | 3m | ||||
Fri 5th Jan 2018 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Cog Factory Sprocket Area | ||||||
V0 | Suppressed | 3m | ||||
A few harder routes possible to the right of this
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V3 | ★★★ Mr Spacely | 4m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Cog | 4m | ||||
I think this is the scoop to mantle. Mental note to self to clean the top in future to prevent pathetic grovelling
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V1 | Spondonicle | 4m | ||||
V2 | ★ Spacely Sprockets | 3m | ||||
Nice features, a bit more traffic would help a lot.
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V2 | ★ Shake n Bake Direct | 3m | ||||
V1 | ★★ Shake n Bake Flake | 4m | ||||
V0 | ★★ Holey Moley | 4m | ||||
Mon 23rd Mar 2015 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
15 | ★ Drunken Praying Mantis style (U) | 3 | Average | |||
Edges thin, and didn't really want to come off with y self belay system
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18 | ★★ Sabotage | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good beginners routes
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15 | ★ Somethings got to give (V) | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Harder tart then pleasant easy slab
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15 | ★ Gratitude (W) | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice features
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16 | ★ Gordo's Climb | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice features
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16 | ★ X | 4 | ★ Good | |||
A few bulges. These bolts are galvanised and quite rusty
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Wed 9th Jul 2014 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House Main Wall | ||||||
V2 | ★★ long traverse | 7m | ||||
V2 | ★ Trail Blazer | |||||
Wed 9th Jul 2014 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House The Alien | ||||||
V1 | traverse | |||||
Wed 9th Jul 2014 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House Press Man Boulder | ||||||
V0- | ★ Rise | |||||
V0 | ★ My Trolley | |||||
V0 | ★ Ride On | |||||
Wed 9th Jul 2014 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House Break Down Lane Right | ||||||
V1 | ★ Barry in the Break Down Lane | |||||
Wed 9th Jul 2014 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House Break Down Lane Left | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Trans Nightmare | 3m | ||||
grabbed Daves leg on the mantle
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Wed 29th Jan 2014 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House The Dug Out | ||||||
V6 | ★★ The Established Line | 4m | ||||
Got to the horn and lip but wasnt going to break an ankle trying the topout with no spotters 2 days before leaving the country
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Wed 29th Jan 2014 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House Odyssey Block | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Version | 2m | ||||
V2 | ★ Escape | 3m | ||||
Wed 29th Jan 2014 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Road House Main Wall | ||||||
V1 | ★ Childs Play | |||||
V3 | ★ These Children Must be Sex Tables | |||||
V3 | ★★ Hungery Sex Tables | |||||
V2 | ★★ These Children Must Need Biceps | |||||
Sun 23rd Jun 2013 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
19 | ★ Chips Ahoy | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
rpt. A #2 or #3 cam may help at top. PFH brackets dont fit top bolts
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18 | ★ Show Bag | 13m, 4 | Average | |||
rpt.
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21 | ★ Gastric | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Damn reachy.
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9 | ★ Vagination | 5m | Don't Bother | |||
did this one a long time ago
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19 | ★ Hard Stuff | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
short but Ok. Good crimp training day.
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16 | ★ D | 7m, 2 | Average | |||
A little harder if you avoid the cave.
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19 | ★★ Sharon Stone | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
rpt
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19 | ★★ Phoenix | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
rpt
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15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
rpt
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21 | ★★ Wiggle It Just A Little Bit | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
rpt
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Sun 27th Feb 2011 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
22 | ★ Putting shame in your game (O) | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
cant really avoid tree
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18 | ★ So wat’cha want (N) | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
also kind of of hard for grade, weird anchors...
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16 | ★ The maestro (M) | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Starts a bit harder than 16. DOnt bridge for full value
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Sun 30th May 2010 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
22 | ★ Left wing (large U bolts left of CN) | 12m | Average | |||
very weird and spaced U bolts
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22 | ★★ Debbie Does Dynos | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Probably 24. Fortunately no dynos.
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Wed 21st Mar 2007 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
22 | ★ Temper Temper | 6m | Average | |||
for a short route it packs a punch.
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21 | ★★ Rub a Dub | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
slopy start
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21 | ★ Pauls Project / C (Pauls Project) | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
not as desperate as Rub a dub
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15 | ★ Mohamed (Mohamud) | 15m | Average | |||
old skool - sneaked out onto the face 21 to avoid the offwidth section!
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Wed 13th Sep 2006 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
18 | ★ So wat’cha want (N) | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
just dont trust the ironstone bands, kinda scary ropesolo
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15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★ Opium | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
nice route, stupidly bolted
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Tue 8th Aug 2006 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
18 | ★ E (D(direct start)) | 7m, 1 | Average | |||
ignore chossy cave and go straight up
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17 | ★ Shake your rump (J) | 6m, 2 | Average | |||
yawn
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21 | ★ Gastric | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
thin, a few good moves
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16 | Pow (L) | 7m | Average | |||
dirty
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15 | ★ Sure shot (K) | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
lots of footwork
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19 | ★ Hard Stuff | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
would be v good if longer
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18 | ★ Show Bag | 13m, 4 | Average | |||
the reinforcing doesnt engender confidence
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17 | ★ Brass monkey (I) | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
short but nice arete
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Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
14 | P | 4m, 3 | Average | |||
nice overhung jugs for grade
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6 | H | 5m, 2 | Average | |||
ascent/descent option
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