Routes in Rätikon North

Over a steep slab wall (C and B/C) to a ledge with a plaque. Then over steeper wall passage (C and B/C) up to the ridge (A/B, on the left is an emergency descent). Follow the ridge (A) to another ridge step (B) and reach the junction with the more difficult variant.

Continue along the ridge (in places B, but mostly A/B and A) to a saddle in front of the Kristallwand. There you cross left into the steep step (B), to then climb up the steep wall with many clamps (B/C). At the top, an easy ridge (A) leads to the highest point (2559 m) of the Gargellner Köpfe.

Over a steep slab wall (C and B/C) to a ledge with a plaque. Over a slab (B) to the right to the first rope bridge (19 m; B). Then briefly up a ridge (B) to the second rope bridge (23 m, B). After this very steeply up the slightly overhanging Schmugglerwand (C/D, at the top then C) to flatter terrain. Over a slab ridge (B) and an upswing (B) you reach a short steep step (B/C), which leads you to an easy ridge (A) and at the end of which you meet the easier variant.

Continue along the ridge (in places B, but mostly A/B and A) to a saddle in front of the Kristallwand. There you cross left into the steep step (B), to then climb up the steep wall with pins (B/C). At the top, an easy ridge (A) leads to the highest point (2559 m) of the Gargellner Köpfe.

Material: 6x Express 2x 60m Seil

Zustieg: 1 1/5 std. Ab Lindauer Hütte 1 1/4 std. Ab Carschina Hütte

Wanderweg Richtung Drei Türme vor Bothaloch zur Sporahöhle und direkt am Wandfuß zum Einstieg sonst Steinschlag!

Abtieg: Abseilen über Route Oder: 1× 60m Richtung Tiergarten 1×30m in Sporahöhle 1x30m aus Sporahöhle

Wall height 265 m Climbing length 435

Access and approach: 1-2 Hours from the Lindauer Hut Decent: Abseiling in westerly direction then cross to the normal route.

Material: 12 Express 2x 60m Seil

Zustieg: 1 1/2 Std. Ab Lindauer Hütte 1 1/4 Std. Ab Carschina Wanderweg Richtung Drei Türme vor Bothaloch zur Sporahöhle und direkt am Wandfuß zum Einstieg. Sonst Steinschlag!

Abstieg: 4x Abseilen über Route (Alternativ): 1x Richtung Sporatobel 1x in Sporahöhle 1x aus Sporahöhle

Most obvious line at the third Kirchlispitze. It follows a big dihedral on the right side of the north face.

1. 60m (1-2) Starts not directly at the bottom of the dihedral. It can be climbed without a rope or you have to find the single bolt in the middle of the pitch to start belaying.

2. 25m (3+) Where the fun starts. 25 meters within the dihedral. Slabs and 3 bolts on the left hand side.

3. 40m (4) Leave the dihedral to the right to continue on slabs. One old piton after the stance, then 3 bolts. After the first bolt keep right.

4. 35m (4-) From the stance head left again to start into the 4th pitch and to reach the bolts at the left side of the dihedral. Follow the dihedral underneath an overhung. 4 bolts and one piton.

5. 40m (4) Either straight up the dihedral at a small overhung that has very good friction or to the right and leave the dihedral to follow a ramp to the next piton. On this 40 meters you will find just two pitons so be brave and watch out for good places to improve your pro. At the end of a slab just before an easy and loose sector you should find a third piton to build a belay anchor.

6. 15m (3-) You do pitch 5 and this in one push. It's short and ends at a comfortable biwi spot (big cave). Just one glued bolt.

7. 50m (3/4) Starts with the most steep part of the route (5m) with good cracks and holds. Then follow the ramp to the summit. On the left more difficult slab climbing (4-), on the right easier.

Descent

The descent is a serious issue. Plan enough time to not be in a hurry. The whole ridge to the main summit and the traverse in the south face are very loose and you have to watch every step.

1. Most popular option is to head east and climb up the to ridge (1 pitch, 2-3, no pro). From the exit of 'Via Carbonara' follow the ridge to the main summit that is marked by a cross (3 pitches, 1-3, few slings and one bolt). Don't be surprised to spend an hour on the ridge.

2. If the ridge is too scary for you, follow a traverse on the south side of the summit until you reach a single bolt (1 or 2 pitches, 1, very loose, few slings and pitons). From there slightly to the right and then a ramp to the left up to the ridge where you will find an equal bolt (1 or 2 pitches, 3-4). From there easy over the ridge to the main summit. Mind that you are exposed to rock fall if others choose option 1.

3. Head west and follow a traverse on the south side of the summit until you reach the saddle between third and second Kirchlispitze. Then downhill on the north without trail. Be aware of snow fields and very loose rock, with a vertical drop off below. This is probably the most dangerous option and not recommended.

4. Safest option is to rappel over the route. Because of possible rock fall this is not recommended if other rope teams are in the route below you (5x45m).

5. Rumour has it that you can abseil down the south side (return via Gafalljoch). Further information welcome.

To descent from the main summit follow the trail on the east side. Easy but steep hiking.

Fantastic, partly quite exposed slab and dihedral climbing on solid, rough rock. The route leads across the edge just above the northern dihedral. Almost all protections have to be placed by yourself!

• Wall height: 180 m
• Climbing length: 220 m

Peak can be reached by passing a fine line. Be careful regarding rock slide.

• Wall height: 105 m
• Climbing length: 115 m

Climbing to the peak is possible by using the neighbour routes

• Wall height: 170 m
• Climbing length: 205 m

Do not abseil!

• Wall height 120 m
• climbing length 140 m

At the moment the hardest route at the Hüttenkopf. In pitch 4 the end is reached it is not possible to go on to the top.

• Wall height 120 m
• Climbing length 160 m