Following a prominent line in the upper third of the Stadlwand, this nearly forgotten route has become a popular climb since its restoration in 2002. The climb itself is varied an very well bolted. The crux moves can all be climbed A0, lowering the obligatory grade to UIAA 5. The rock is mostly very good, although some pitches do have their fare share of loose rock.
Descent: BEWARE! At the start of the descent you first have to scramble uphill through steep and pathless forest. The ground is not allways 100% solid (loose rocks, take care because of climbers on the cliff below). Afterwards you reach a path that leads back to the parking lot.
Original first ascent: K.H. Richter and Friends 1929 First ascent direct line: R. reidinger 1958; I. Gruber 1975 Restoration and first ascent of new direct line: R. Melchart and Ch. Faltin 2002
2002 | First ascent: R. Melchart & Ch. Faltin |
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4+, 6-, 4, 5, 4, 4, 5, 4+, 5+, 6 | Assigned grade |
4+, 6-, 4, 5, 4, 4, 5, 4+, 5+, 6 | ★★Gabriel Emm |
Overall quality 73 from 5 ratings.
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Author(s): Th. Behm
Date: 2013
Der Kletterführer beschreibt 2000 Routen in der Schwierigkeitsspanne von 2 bis 11 UIAA in einer reizvollen Ecke Österreichs.
Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler
Date: 2023
ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2
Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).
Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen
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