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1 4+ 30m
2 6- 30m
3 4 40m
4 5 30m
5 4 30m
6 4 40m
7 5 35m
8 4+ 40m
9 5+ 25m
10 6 25m

description

Following a prominent line in the upper third of the Stadlwand, this nearly forgotten route has become a popular climb since its restoration in 2002. The climb itself is varied an very well bolted. The crux moves can all be climbed A0, lowering the obligatory grade to UIAA 5. The rock is mostly very good, although some pitches do have their fare share of loose rock.

Descent: BEWARE! At the start of the descent you first have to scramble uphill through steep and pathless forest. The ground is not allways 100% solid (loose rocks, take care because of climbers on the cliff below). Afterwards you reach a path that leads back to the parking lot.

Original first ascent: K.H. Richter and Friends 1929 First ascent direct line: R. reidinger 1958; I. Gruber 1975 Restoration and first ascent of new direct line: R. Melchart and Ch. Faltin 2002

Route history

2002First ascent: R. Melchart & Ch. Faltin

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 47.74829, 15.79230

Grade citation

4+, 6-, 4, 5, 4, 4, 5, 4+, 5+, 6 Assigned grade
4+, 6-, 4, 5, 4, 4, 5, 4+, 5+, 6

ethic

Belongs to the Natura 2000 region of Northeastern Border Alps: Hohe Wand / Schneeberg / Rax.

inherited from Höllental

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 73 from 5 ratings.

Difficulty - 6

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

6

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 2
Red point 1
Tick 2

Comment keywords

nice

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Robert Gruber, Thomas Behm

Date: 2021

Author(s): Th. Behm

Date: 2013

Der Kletterführer beschreibt 2000 Routen in der Schwierigkeitsspanne von 2 bis 11 UIAA in einer reizvollen Ecke Österreichs.

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).

Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 23 May
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