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Routes in Smolyan

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Showing all 43 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
7b+/c
Turluka Zapad
7b+/c Sakantiya

A finger crack that progressively grows to a chimney.

Set: kosta

FFA: Eben Farnworth, Aug 2020

Sport 33m
7b
Turluka Zapad
7b Top rope or die

Avoid the chossy arête,

FA: kosta

Sport 30m
7a+
Kechi Kaya Bratyata
7a+ Rudimenta

Set: kosta

Sport 23m, 10
7a/a+
Sokolov Kamak
7a/a+ Scar Tissue

FFA: kosta

Set: Hristo Tumbev & kosta

Sport
Turluka Turluka
7a/a+ Ya Kaminata, Ya Kamilarya

FA: kosta

Sport 20m
7a/a+ Pillar of Madness

FA: kosta

Sport 20m
7a
Kechi Kaya Bratyata
7a Nautilus

On the east face.

Sport 30m, 15
Turluka Zapad
7a Samotniyat chovek

FA: S. Todorov

Sport 25m
Turluka Turluka
7a Plochata

Variant of the Zhenskia starting 2m letf of it and using the same bolts.

FA: kosta

Sport 20m
6c+
Sokolov Kamak
6c+ Needle In A Haystack

Technical, bouldery and tricky. The fun starts immediately.

FFA: Eben Farnworth, Sep 2020

Set: kosta & Eben Farnworth, Sep 2020

Sport
Turluka Turluka
6c+ RNK

Same start as DNK but continues right.

FA: kosta

Sport 25m
6c
Kechi Kaya Gabite
6c Dirty old town
1 6a 32m
2 6c 18m
Sport 50m, 2, 17
Sredok
6c Oscar Wild
1 6c 35m
2 6b+ 25m

A good rack of nuts and cams (micro to #4 grey). There's no typo in the name

FA: kosta & Stoyan Todorov, 27 Aug 2022

Mixed trad 60m, 2, 5
Turluka Turluka
6c Trad Route

Some of the pitons aren't reliable.

Trad 18m
6c DNK

FA: kosta

Sport 20m
6b+
Kechi Kaya Bratyata
6b+ Amok Sport 30m
{UIAA} 7
The Needle Rock The First Needle
{UIAA} 7 The Rock Plate Sport 55m, 2, 8
{UIAA} 7 Mosquito Sport 55m, 2, 12
6b
Turluka Zapad
6b Kabadailia

Small and middle sizes cams are needed.

FA: kosta

Mixed trad 30m, 3
6a+
Kechi Kaya Bratyata
6a+ Shtastliv geroi Sport 40m, 14
6a+ Falshiv geroi

Left variant of Shtastliv geroi.

Sport 35m, 13
Turluka Turluka
6a+ Novo 20

First follows a crack then an arete.

FA: kosta

Sport 20m
6a+ Old Route

Old sport-trad route. Unknown name.

Mixed trad 20m, 4
6a
Sokolov Kamak
6a Lunna Sonata

Starts with an off-width crack, right of Gyoko. Very diverse route.

Set: kosta

FFA: Eben Farnworth, Aug 2020

Sport
Turluka Turluka
6a Syankata Sport 20m, 8
{UIAA} 6+
The Needle Rock The First Needle
{UIAA} 6+ Hristo Mixed trad 50m, 2, 4
5c
Turluka Turluka
5c Sarbezha - Variant Mixed trad 20m, 2
5c Kaminata

Same start as 'Ya Kaminata, Ya Kamilarya', then traverse right to a dihedral.

Sport 22m, 8
5b
Kechi Kaya Bratyata
5b Star tur

Chimney on the north face of the 'bigger brother'.

Trad 40m
Kechi Kaya Gabite
5b Chicho
1 4a 35m
2 4a 15m
3 5b 15m
4 3 20m

2nd and 3rd pitches can be merged.

Sport 85m, 4, 10
5b No one Sport 65m, 2, 14
Sokolov Kamak
5b Gyoko

A few pitons left.

Trad
Turluka Turluka
5b Zhenskia Sport 20m, 7
5b Chuka Sport 20m, 7
5b OChZ

FA: kosta

Trad 20m
{UIAA} 5+
The Needle Rock The First Needle
{UIAA} 5+ Wasko

The first pich - 7 pitons, the second one - 1 bolt and cams Rappel: The first option is 1 rappel - 55 meters with two connected ropes. The second option is 2 rappel with one single rope /2 rappel х 25 meters/.

Mixed trad 80m, 2, 8
5a
Kechi Kaya Bratyata
5a Superluna

First route against the trail on the south face of the 'bigger brother'.

Sport 25m, 12
4c
Turluka Turluka
4c Sarbezha Sport 20m, 6
4b
Kechi Kaya Bratyata
4b Darvodelets Sport 28m
Kechi Kaya Gabite
4b Ursus arctos

Run-out

Sport 60m, 2
Turluka Turluka
4b Deteshtia Sport 20m
{UIAA} 4+
The Needle Rock The First Needle
{UIAA} 4+ The Easy one

firs pich - 9 bolts second pich - 1 bolt Rappel: The first option is 1 rappel - 55 meters with two connected ropes. The second option is 2 rappel with one single rope /2 rappel х 25 meters/.

Mixed trad 80m, 2, 10
3b
Kechi Kaya Gabite
3b Rozhdestvo Sport 60m, 2, 8

Showing all 43 routes.

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