Routes in Alberta for selected grade

Gear to 2", TCU's. Climb Tomcat and continue past the anchors to a roof. Trend right past three bolts and up to the anchors.

200m right of Pinko under a system of corners which run almost the entire height of the face. Unsure if this route has ever seen a repeat.

P1 - Climb the corner and traverse left to a belay (50m 5.7).

P2 - Climb into a steep parallel-sided groove to a good ledge (45m 5.9).

P3 - Move left a climb a right facing corner. Continue up a second corner for 5m before traversing right onto a ledge (40m 5.9).

P4 - Move right along the ledge to a left facing corner. Climb for 5m before traversing left to a ledge. Move along the ledge to climb a short off-width. Continue left then back right to the base of a loose left facing corner (45m 5.9).

P5 - Traverse back down and left to climb a left facing corner to reach a ledge. Continue up a second blind left facing corner on the ledge of the ledge until it is possible to traverse right along a break for 10m to a belay. (40m 5.9).

P6 - Climb the corner to a bolt, move up and left to a ramp system into a large left facing corner. Climb the corner to a good stance. (50m, 5.10c).

P7 - Continue up the corner past a ledge to a second ledge at the base of another left facing corner (50m 5.10).

P8 - Climb the corner for about 35m before traversing right to a second corner which you follow to a ledge. Belay on the right of this ledge (50m 5.10).

P9 - Traverse right along the ledge until below a short steep crack leading to a ramp (80m 5.4).

P10 - Climb the crack with difficult to a ramp climbing up the ramp for 10m to a steep wall. Climb down and right then up the steep wall continuing up and right to a jam crack. This pitch is dangerously run-out. (50m, 5.11a R).

P11 - Go up and left to a loose crack and ramp. Climb up and left on the ramp to a ledge (45m 5.9).

P12 - Pull onto a ledge and climb a slab to an overhang before traversing left until possible to move up and over the overhang to the summit (30m).

Climb Current Account and continue up and left along the flake. Bring a medium/large nut to protect the top or run it out. Second the pitch and make two raps to reach the ground.

Rock is reported to be good though compact with a selection of pitons required for both runners and belays. Approach as for Candle in the Wind hiking along the NE face until 30-40m right of the prominent wet streak.

Gear - full rack to 3 inches including micro cams. 6 pitons, mostly knifeblades and 60m ropes. The first 6 pitches are set up for rappel.

P1 - Climb a left facing corner before heading left to under a roof then right to a small ledge at a left facing corner. (55m 5.6).

P2 - Climb a series of small corners and belay on a ledge at the base of a right facing corner (50m, 5.10-).

P3 - Climb the corner to reach a curving crack out right before heading back left to belay at the base of a scree gully (55m 5.9).

P4 - Move the belay 10m higher then climb a series of right facing corners and a small chimney to a belay (55m 5.7).

P5 - Climb another short chimney and then a large pinnacle. Head right along a ledge to the base of a left facing corner and belay bolt. (50m, 5.6).

P6 - Climb to the left of the corner and belay on a small ledge. (30m 5.10+).

P7 - Work up and left to a 2 bolt belay below a small roof. (20m, 5.10-).

P8 - Climb a short steep slab past 3 bolts before continuing up long angle slabs to a belay. (55m 5.11).

P9 - Climb a right trending slot to a large ledge before continuing up corners to a second ledge. (60m 5.7).

P10 - Head up short corners and slot to reach 3rd class terrain which leads to the summit. (25m 5.10-).

Starts 40m right of the Homer-Wood route at the base of 2 left leaning cracks. This route was established on-sight, ground up and hammerless in a 36hr push car to car. Pretty impeccable style considering the compact nature of the rock in this area.

P1 - Move into a left facing corner to a loose-looking overhang. Pull through on the left and traverse left on good holds to a crack. (40m, 5.10dR)

P2 - Follow the crack (50m, 5.10a).

P3 - Follow the crack (20m, 5.9).

P4 - Continue up the crack past 2 small overhangs. (45m, 5.10c).

P5 - Continue up the crack. (60m, 5.8).

P6 - Step left to a flake then follow back right to the same crack system and continue up. (50m, 5.9).

P7 - Continue up the crack. (60m, 5.9).

P8 - Step up and right to a left facing corner and follow this up to belay below a roof. (45m, 5.10a).

P9 - Continue up and left to a shallow right facing corner then shallow left facing corner to belay on a ledge on the left below a steep corner with blocks. (60m, 5.10a).

P10 - Step right to a right facing corner which you climb until it starts to trend further right. Here step left to a left facing corner following it up to a ledge which intersects with the Homer-Wood route. (55m, 5.10a).

P11 - Climb the crack to a roof, step right then continue up the crack to easier ground. (50m, 5.10a).

Follow lots of 4th class scrambling until you intersect with the ridge and then several more rope lengths of low 5th class to the summit.

Gear to 1.5"

There are bolts on harder sections.

A technical start to a hard to read roof encounter where you'll find the crux. Easy climbing above! Not an ideal warm up

The must do classic 5.11 of the Hideaway. Fun technical cruxes separated by big rests. Enjoy

A low crux is followed by nice climbing and a finial tough section pasta small roof near the top. Sustained

Not a great warm up but its all there is. Perma draws also which is nice. Start at the bottom of the small, left trending ramp and follow the blue streak to the anchor.

From the anchors of Undercover Brother, trend left onto a tough slab. Jug thuggery leads up the overhang above.

Climb an easy face to a bulge. Pull trough it and get to menacing overhang. Match on some good crimps and trow to an invisible jug. Hard to onsight…It is that invisible! Exellent climb on good rock. Named after Vern Schwab.

Alt start to bent jack crack.

Start off on a small ledge into a blocky spine, bust a body positional boulder problem on directional holds to a slabby finish. Short.

The first last route on the first cliff, or the first route if you are traversing back towards the highway from the first gulley. P1) 25m, 5.10b

P2) 15m, 5.10c.

P3) 30m, 5.11a.

P4) 30m, 5.10d.

P5) 20n, 5.8.

Rap the route.

Just left of Gift Card. Some questionable rock, short cruxes.

High quality moves on good holds.

Enjoy positive flakes and a fun roof. Nice position and climbing.