Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 22nd Aug 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Echo Canyon The Notch The Notch | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Silver Tip | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Balancy crimpy at the top, not a good moment to look down and see your last draw cross loaded with the dog bone sitting over the gate.... Eek! All ended well. Pretty cool climbing.
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5.11a | ★★ Fuzzy Logic | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jug jug jug.... Not so jug....jug jug jug...
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Mon 20th Aug 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grotto Canyon Hemingway Wall Left | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Walk on the Wild Side (Walk on he Wilde Side) | ★ Good | ||||
5.11d | ★★★ Stone Age Romeos | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Really nice climbing, especially as it shares the first bolt of walk on the wild side. Hard work done... Cruise up to the end to a smack in the face hard move. Polished soap fingernail crimps anyone??
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5.11d | ★★★ Stone Age Romeos | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Nails hard crimp.... One move!!!!!
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5.12a | Success Pool (Sjccess Pool) | Don't Bother | ||||
The start of this is soo polished. Friction moves on glass.... Couldn't do it, leads to fun climbing....til the last move to the anchor.... Eeek. Didn't want to even try this again....
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5.11c | ★★ Walk on the Wild Side (Walk on he Wilde Side) | ★ Good | ||||
Got wigged out by the super polished nature. Super balancy. When it went, I thought I would be off pretty much at any second. Surprised!!
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Sun 19th Aug 2012 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Duckland | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Wild Frontiers | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yaay
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5.11d | ★★ Wild Frontiers | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One more lap cos it's so good when you've worked out the sequence.
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5.12a | ★★ Cowgirls in the Rain | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Probably not the best for a warm up.... Hard to find the correct sequence and a bit polished.
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5.12a | ★★ Cowgirls in the Rain | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really good once you've found the sequence.
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5.12a | ★★ Cowgirls in the Rain | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One more shot as the storm is coming and it's so good!
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5.11d | ★★ Wild Frontiers | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A couple of loose blocks makes it a bit interesting especially when they are essential crux holds. Really technical and hard to find on the onsight attempt.
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Thu 16th Aug 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes White Imperialist Area | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Yellow Peril | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c | ★ Red Menace | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Dark Design | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 16th Aug 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Hermit Wall | ||||||
5.11b 5.11a | ★★ Silk P2 (Silk) | 22m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Mr Manners | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Good but unnerving...
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5.10d | ★ Silk P1 (Silk midstation) | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 13th Aug 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Heart Creek The Bayon | ||||||
5.11d | Clump | 7m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
Super polished... Too polished for this monkey to do it!
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Mon 13th Aug 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Heart Creek Waterfall Wall | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ 52 Pickup | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ignore the start and it's a 10... Otherwise, 12a move to get past the first bolt. Super strong.... But otherwise really good in an omg I could grease off this polished overloved rock kinda way...
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5.11b | ★ Lazarus | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Technical and super balancy. 11b in guidebook.
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5.10a | ★ Late Shift | 29m, 13 | Average | |||
Some loose rocks. Funky and technical for the grade.
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Sun 12th Aug 2012 - Banff | ||||||
Black Feather Canyon Mind Games Wall | ||||||
5.12b | ★ Kick Me Down | 15m, 6 | ||||
Cool moves. One killer move then funky laybacks. Another shot and it wouldn't be impossible... Another time maybe???
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5.11c | ★★★ Edge Grinder | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really cool moves into a corner. Big holds and twisty turny moves!
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5.11b | ★★ Snake Bite | |||||
Killer finish. Holds are there but... Kapow!!!
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5.12a 5.11d | ★★ Mind Bender | 17m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Keeps you on your toes the whole way! Technical climbing.
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5.11d | ★★ Brain Dead (Bread Dead) | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super hard start then it just keeps hitting you!
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Sun 12th Aug 2012 - Banff | ||||||
Black Feather Canyon Bottleneck | ||||||
5.10a | Put a cork in it | 12m | Don't Bother | |||
Horrible. Don't bother and continue walking up to the main sector...
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Thu 9th Aug 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Echo Canyon The Notch The Notch | ||||||
5.10d | Melting Wax | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sharp grey limestone or greasy slopery grey limestone. Delicate moves.... Or high step a lot!!! ok but not something to do again....ever...
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5.12a | ★★★ Silver Bullet | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome funky and sometimes technical moves. Really cool!
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5.11b | ★★ Standard Deviation | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep juggy finish. Really good! Pumpy!!
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Mon 6th Aug 2012 - Kananaskis Country | ||||||
Prairie Creek Petra | ||||||
5.12a | ★ The Blink's Powerful | |||||
If I were 6 foot tall I might enjoy this... But.. Since all the pockets were wet and muddy, I'm not sticking any dynos today. Not as much fun as i'd hoped...
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Mon 6th Aug 2012 - Kananaskis Country | ||||||
Prairie Creek Le Secteur Bumbly | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Bombus | Don't Bother | ||||
Wet, spoogy and generally crap...
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5.10b | ★ Sacagawea | |||||
5.10b | ★ Grimmia | |||||
Hard start, good holds... Short!
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Thu 2nd Aug 2012 - Skaha | ||||||
The Terraces | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Life in the Slow Lane | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Snarling at the Greeter | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Some funky cracks reminiscent of Frog Buttress in Qld.
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Thu 2nd Aug 2012 - Skaha | ||||||
Tottering Pillar | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Bottom Line | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really cool meandering moves.
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Thu 2nd Aug 2012 - Skaha | ||||||
The Belfry | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Goin' sailin' | |||||
Finally!
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5.12a | ★★★ Blade Runner | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really cool climbing till last bolt.... No idea and in full sun...
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Wed 1st Aug 2012 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Eat cake | 25m | ||||
One funky move. Cool climb!
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5.10b | ★★ Besieged Briefly | 28m, 15 | ||||
Really good.
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5.10d | ★ The Plague | 22m, 5 | Average | |||
A bit run out.
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5.10a 5.10 | ★ Seige Machine | Average | ||||
Crumbly start
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Sat 28th Jul 2012 - Skaha | ||||||
Doctors Wall | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Salvation | 30m | ||||
Just so pumpy! Can do all moves, just not in one go! New high point though.... Pretty hot and humid!
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Sat 28th Jul 2012 - Skaha | ||||||
Maternal Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Banana Bypass | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super pumpy and mentally a bit tiring!! Awesome climbing though!!
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5.11b | ★★ My Mother Loves Me | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Keeps you on your toes the whole way.
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5.10b 5.10c | ★ Pink Cosmo Girls | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Went to second anchor, supposedly 11a but last half not too hard, just steep. Watch out for loose blocks...
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Fri 27th Jul 2012 - Skaha | ||||||
Red Tail Upper | ||||||
5.11c | H | Crap | ||||
Not sure why this was bolted. Lichenous and friction style climbing. Not good with a thunder storm just about to hit....
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5.11a | ★★ Treasure in the Lichen | 35m, 16 | ||||
Hot and humid with a storm approaching and swelling feet in new shoes. Otherwise quite a fun climb!
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Wed 25th Jul 2012 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Forgotten Wall Forgotten Wall Right | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Creepy Crawlers | 22m, 8 | ||||
5.12a 5.11c | ★★ Maximum Extreme Climb | 22m, 7 | ||||
Surprisingly greasy and technical. Once you found your way, quite ok... First shot had a lot of wtf moments! Plus... We thought we were warming up on a 11a... Ahh fun times!
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5.10b 5.12c | ★★ Sudden Impact - Long (Low Impact) | 20m, 9 | ||||
Tue 24th Jul 2012 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Toxic Lichen Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Mutation | 18m, 7 | Average | |||
Probably not the best climb to do given the amount of rain in the last week and that it was a lichenous wall.... Scary as hell! It was wet.... Might be nice dry. Didn't fancy the fall pinging of the top so yoyo'd for ages before committing!!
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Tue 24th Jul 2012 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area The Circus | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Face the Music | 18m, 5 | ||||
Tricky and balancy!!!
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Tue 24th Jul 2012 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area The Main Event | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Mother's Milk | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c | ★★ Kigijiushi | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ Dark Don't Lie | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 21st Jul 2012 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area The Circus | ||||||
5.12c | ★★ The Fleeing Heifer | 15m, 7 | ||||
Not feeling the best today.... Crux seemed impossible! Fingers wouldn't engage. Too wet for Squamish, and some moves here a bit damp!
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5.11c | ★★ Neutered Bovine | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really cool moves!!
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5.11a | ★ Pet Taxi (Pet Taxi (duplicated in Chek/Black Wall)) | 10m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
5.10d | ★ Light My Way | 10m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Wed 18th Jul 2012 - Skaha | ||||||
The Belfry | ||||||
5.11b 5.11a | ★★ Goin’ Shrimpin’ (Goin' Shrimpn') | 15m, 7 | ||||
5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Sex Machine | 15m, 9 | ||||
5.12a | ★★ Goin' sailin' | |||||
Hot and humid! Last move could be painful if you get caught in the chain.....
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Tue 17th Jul 2012 - Cedar Park (John's Family Conservancy) | ||||||
Croissant | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Up from the ashes | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11b | ★★ Mohawks on belay | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.11d | ★★ Desperation | 25m, 8 | ||||
There's the tall person finish and the short persons finish... If you are short, don't listen to beta from tall people...
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5.11a | ★★ 51 hotdogs | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 14th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes The Rectory | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Soft Machine | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Better when not raining, hopefully!
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Sat 14th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes The Ghetto | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Touch | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Bit wet.
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Wed 11th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Acephale Lower Wall Right | ||||||
5.12c | ★★ Deal With It | ★ Good | ||||
Super pumpy. Can do all the moves but not sure if I'll be fit enough to string them together.... Yet....
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5.11b | ★ Neoconstructionist | ★ Good | ||||
Super pumpy warm up!!! Greasy crimpers to set the mood....
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Tue 10th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Meathooks Area | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ B60 OFO (B60 OFO (AKA Thirty Something)) | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got psyched out by the wet pockets on the first shot. Moment of weakness..... Second shot pushed through... Pretty cool climb!
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5.10c | Born from the Mountain | 10m | Average | |||
First half is good fun, second is a bit fragile and Chossy. Worthwhile doing though I think...
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Sun 8th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Acephale Upper Wall - Bataille | ||||||
5.11a | ★ The Warm-Up | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical pumpy sequence climb. Really cool!
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5.12c | ★★ Altius | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow. Hope to get on this on a cooler day. Record heat today... My excuse??? Punchy and dynamic!
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Sat 7th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Cougar Canyon Canadian Forks | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Free Lunch | 19m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.10d | Some Can Dance | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Mad pumpy start!!
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5.11c | ★★ Phlogiston | 14m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super greasy polished holds at the start on a super warm day. Good pumpy moves though. Easy when you know where you are going...
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Sat 7th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Cougar Canyon Cosmology Crag | ||||||
5.10c | Honeymoon Suite | 22m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Meant to get on the climb beside this but the old guidebook is very confusing. Bought a new one since... Makes so much more sense!
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5.11a | ★★ Neutronium | 27m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool moves. Good holds all the way.
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Thu 5th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Hermit Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Cold Fusion | 22m, 8 | Average | |||
Really good moves, if only the rock didn't feel like sand coated clay.....
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Thu 5th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Meathooks Area | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ The Harlot | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun
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Thu 5th Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Graceland Area | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Memphis | 29m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome!!!
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5.10d | ★ Honeymoon in Vegas | 20m, 8 | ||||
5.11a | ★ Heartbreak Hotel | 21m, 9 | ||||
Mon 2nd Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Graceland Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Sunglasses & Sideburns | 20m, 8 | ||||
Mon 2nd Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Meathooks Area | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Stormtroopers in Drag | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11c | ★★ Holey Shit (Holy Shit) | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a 5.10d | ★ Buckets from Hell (Choss Toss) | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ Meathooks | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 2nd Jul 2012 - Canmore | ||||||
Grassi Lakes Gardener's Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Weed 'Em and Reap | 20m, 9 | ||||
nice and pumpy. perfect warmup for meathooks wall!
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Thu 28th Jun 2012 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Hillside Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ The Incredible Talking Woman | 22m, 8 | ||||
super polished crimpy and balancy slab... not so nice.
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Thu 28th Jun 2012 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Air Voyage Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Mr Rogers Smokes a Fat One | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
wow, what a pump! either very unfit or this is a sandbag and a half!!! super good holds but you get pumped early on... tactic game to depump and keep going. thought i was off about 3 times but miraculously managed to stay on regardless of mega pump!
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Thu 28th Jun 2012 - Lake Louise | ||||||
The Amphitheatre | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Imaginary Face | 25m, 9 | ||||
only sport warm up in area.... probably should have done some trad...
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Wed 27th Jun 2012 - Lake Louise | ||||||
Outhouse Area | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Turtle Mountain (Turtle Island) | 25m, 7 | ||||
desperate.
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5.11a | ★★★ Mardi Gras | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
awesome climb. one super balancy moment way above the draw..... looking at the next draw just above you. much nicer with gear on it! freezing cold and wet day.
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5.10a | ★★ Public Enemy | 23m, 9 | ||||
run out.
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