Ascents in Yak Peak

My first alpine experience... beautiful. Since 5 years old I imagined watersliding down the face, then some 20 years later I climbed the sucker... 8hrs car to car

Awesome! Bigger and a bit steeped than it looks from the highway. Got a couple of new cams for booty when I went the wrong way too! Tip: traverse at the up to the awesome looking hollow flake, don't go straight up to the shiny rap chains on pitch 8 or 9!

4:45 on route with simul climbing up to the traverse pitch. Was even more fun than I remembered, possibly because it was still warm at the top!

Awesome route! Those who say the route is scary and loose have probably only ever climbed at Squamish. Though it certainly is run out! Bolted anchors were glorious. Now I can drive the Coquihalla in peace

Route finding can be difficult. Be careful of rockfall and rock conditions. Best alpine summit I've done yet.

Did the climb in 4 hrs 15 min, simul climbing until pitch 8, then doing the rest in 4 pitches, and soloing off. Still a 7 hr + day with approach and 900m descent on ball bearings. Fun outing

Took longer than my last ascent. Heavy snow-off the backside. Ice axe wouldn't be a terrible idea.

Beautiful climb up an incredible face. Would be a classic if there was like 3 or 4 more bolts over the entire route to stop several large factor 2 falls. Pulled occasional gear to prevent this.

Not sure what the deal is with pitch 10 but it's the most scared I have ever been on a rope. Mossy wet dihedral or totally unprotected 5.10x crumbly steep slab with no gear for 15+ metres.

Perhaps we just got lost. All in all a great adventure.

so so rock

Well, this route was a lot. Definitely alpine granite - very loose and crumbly at times. Lots of hollow flakes and insecure places for gear which you'd be wise not to fall on. It didn't make for easy or frequent gear placement. Also, recent rockfall and rocks shifting made the 6th to 8th pitches seem extremely chossy. The unprotected final slab pitch was an unpleasant yet easy surprise. However, the undercling pitch up to the floating bridge section was exceptional, and the upper crack pitches were sweet. Overall, a fun alpine adventure, and the scenery was exceptional. However, I wouldn't recommend this route for a less experienced trad or alpine climber.

Simuled first 12 pitches. Pitch 13 or 14 is scary due to the crumbling wet rock - pieces were coming off everywhere.