Routes in Pacific Ranges

Follow the nice finger crack that widens large hands at the top.

Belay the second from the top.

Either walk down or rappel down "Crime of the Century"

First two pitches can be done through the trees if starting on the right hand side or do Calculus Direct and start in Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack route;

1. Start as for St Vitus' Dance to tree belay in ledge

2. Keep going up through the trees with a hard move right of the ledge 3)Step left into two bolt anchor so you get belayed with no rope drag, and follow the double crag until gets steep, step left and build gear belay small ledge at the start of finger crack, long pitch 50m

3. Climb the finger crack with solid finger locks and solid gear, a few more meters of easier climbing and build belay at start of next steep ramp

4. Continue up the crag and keep going up until the angle eases into an easy slab and angle right to a two bolt belay 6)Keep going up through easy terrain to the ledge, we did it unroped or possible to combine with previous pitch just continue going up until you reach the trees and memorial ledge

220m. A generally easy and un-sustained, but sometimes run-out climb across and up the Apron.

1. (5.4, 20-30m) Climb easy but unprotected slab to a horizontal break, then traverse right until a pair of birch trees.

2. (5.easy, 30m) Continue right along the horizontal break, slightly up then curving back down until a stand of trees.

3. (5.5 R, 15m) Stem up a tree, then step onto a slab. Friction up the unprotected slab to more trees.

4. (5.7, 30m) Climb unprotected slab above the trees towards trending leftwards, then step right to a bolt. Pull a couple 5.7 moves past the bolt, then more unprotected slab left to a corner. Surmount the corner and bulge above, then traverse up and left to trees.

5. (5.4, 15m) Move left to an obvious flake then up into a groove. Make a gear belay.

6. (5.7, 30m) Pull up onto the slab right of the belay and angle up and right on un-protected slab to into a corner, follow this for a bit, then left and up to trees.

7. (5.4 50m) Climb up into a water runnel; follow this and obvious cracks until you find a stance with small gear behind a flake and belay.

8. (5.4 50m) Continue up the flake above past a detached piece of slab, then up the easier slab to the trees.

Climb up the ramp out of the gorge, staying along the arete. Nice climbing with beautiful views.

P1. 5.7 20m, 4 bolts

P2. 5.7 45m, 8 bolts (don't stop at the first anchor -- this is just an intermediate rap station)

P3. 5.9 20m, 4 bolts

Pitch 3 Variation: 5.10c climbs to the left, around the corner, to the same upper belay location.

NOTE: The trail from the car park IS the way to go as per the update on Quickdraw Publications. Its is a well maintained trail with just a shitty move on scree slope but totally safe, much quicker than walking the same distance and then raping. If for whatever mysterious reason you want to rap, the rap station is 5 meter left of the chains from top of start check as per pic below. Can be done in 2 raps with a 70m rope or 3 with a 60m. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD PEOPLE RAP THE ROUTE extremely likely that someone is climbing it and you will be on their way, rock fall possible from the top, and its 4 raps instead of 3 if you chose the rap station

Protecting the boulder at the bottom is a good idea. Nice mellow climbing to a vertical section heading left into a great crack to the anchors. Good protection

Bolted belay stations! A classic moderate that you can add some flare to if you want!

To the right of Magic Carpet Ride, you'll find the very obvious clean start.

1. Start on some good slabby edges up past a bolt, gain the crack and move right. Bolt-protected slab traverse gets you to the first belay station.

2. 5.8 a classic corner with an optional 5.10 variation. The variation has a mild runout on the first tenuous moves.

3. Ascend a nice and easy right-leaning crack system with a kicker at the end.

4. An easy pitch but the main reason people climb this route - fantastic views as you traverse the slab beside a good roof.

5. A short pull gains the upper slab and a quick walk past 3 bolts finds the top anchor.

Walk off to climber's right.

PDF Topo by Jeremy Frimer

Solid 5.8.

Climb the finger-to-hand layback crack through a bulge to easier climbing above.

Considered one of the finest 10a cracks in the bluffs. Amazing and sustained best sum it up.

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

Angel's Crest is a classic 5-star multi-pitch route that is one of the longest and most adventurous 5.10 routes on the Chief. This route ascends the "north arete", the entire ridge to the R of the North Gully.

1. 5.10b Up a slab past a few bolts and over a bulge (crux). Clip the rap anchor and continue around to another slab with 4 more bolts to the base of Angle crack

2. 5.10b Angel Crack. A L-leaning fingers to hand layback crack with good rests. Finishing with a short hand traverse L under a block before moving up to the belay ledge.

3. 5.10b Out L and up face to a groove, then up and R back to the arête.

4. 5.6 Easy scrambling up the slabby arête.

5. 5.10a Steep Face - Up steep face. Move R below a bulge, then up easier through a R corner to a ledge.

6. 5.5 Easy ground to a small ledge with trees.

7. 5.10a Up two ramps and R. Finish up a L facing corner to reach the ledge.

8. 5.9 (alt. 5.10a) Up R, and then up through the trees to groove. Follow up R, then up to the ledge with trees. Alternative pitch - An off-width on the L (5.10a).

9. 5.5 Acrophobes Traverse. Follow trail and scramble L and up to the base of the Lower Tower. Up diagonally, then hand traverse the ridge to the summit of the Lower Tower. Note there are alternative routes here The Acrophobes Towers, A knife edge over which you climb to eventually rappel off the back side.

10. 5.8 Through the notch, climb back to the west, across, and up to a fixed-line. Downclimb to a small dirt ledge. Scramble along the ramp into a gully to escape the route.

11. 5.7 (alt. 5.10a) Up and L through the easy ground until the Whale-Back arête leads up and R to a small stance. At the top of the arete, move R to belay from a piton above the twisted cedar tree. An alternate pitch - The crack on R (5.10a).

12. 5.10a Climb the crack system above the gnarled route and over the piton. Sustained climbing takes you to a big ledge and a bolted belay.

13. 5.8 On the R of the ledge, a crawl space on a sloped ramp leads to a rock mount, from where you can step across to the far face of a deep chimney.

The original final pitch moved up the face directly above and behind the crack of the previous pitch, avoiding the chimney.

Alternate start to get around people:

1. 5.7 Step up R for a few metres to a small ledge, then up a dirty vegetated corner to a larger ledge.

2. 5.8 Starting on R. Blocky moves lead up to an obvious crack system finishing at base of angels crack.

Perma-draws. Very nice athletic moves.

flake to intriguing face climbing

Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.

1. Pull a short crack move to trees and roots pulling until a second, somewhat longer, crack.

2. Climb up a broken crack system to baseline ledge. Consider climbing the obvious hand to off-width crack listed as 'St. Bernard P1' instead.

3. The long obvious hand-crack. Belay just above a bulge. Keep a #3 for the anchor.

4. Step up and right, following discontinued cracks to a chimney-like feature with a crack inside. Belay off of a combination of cams, bush and slung flake.

5. Climb up the shallow cracks to a steep hand crack. Belay off of a tree or (70m) link to the top.

6. Wander up the slab and move left to a low angle crack with a high first step. Belay off of a tree.

Descent:

Recommended

Rappel off of calculus crack's anchor into the gully (4x 30m) ;

Or

Exposed

Scramble up a short right-leaning crack to a ledge below 'Karen's Math' and wander up the gully to the right. Keep going right to broadway ledge and descend along the south trail.

Generously bolted route; bolts can be skipped and pitches linked. Bring lots of draws or be ok with run out to skip bolts in order to link pitches (all pitches are <25m, last 2 are ~10m each).

Pitch: # bolts (does not include anchors) 1: 8 bolts? 2: 15 bolts 3: 11 bolts 4: 10 bolts 5: 11 bolts 6: 13 bolts 7: 5 bolts 8: 12 bolts 9: 3 bolts 10: 4 bolts

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \

P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead.

Start at the left side of the lower apron.

1. (5.7 30m) Climb up a shallow groove, then past a bolt then up slab to an anchor.

2. (5.7 30m) Foot traverse up and right along the crack, then up a bulge and a few face moves to an anchor.

3. (5.7 20m) Follow the bolts (6?) to the next anchor.

4. (5.8 10m) Follow the bolts up the head wall, then up to the anchor. Rappel; or continue past the anchor to trees if continuing up the Apron.

Can be linked into just two pitches.

2 pitches. crack climb.Bolted belays. Walk off to the left is fun in its own way. bring more 1-1.5"cams

Climbs directly above the toe of the slab on edges and pockets

Well protected finger crack. You could probably climb it with just nuts.

Climbs just left of the corner that "Sour Grass" climbs -- pick one of two starts to a left-slanting crack and follow this.

Starts at the Memorial Ledge. climb up the obvious crack. 40m Belay off of hidden bolts on the boulder at the top.

Great sustained climbing all the way. Bolted anchors.

You can either climb the two pitches (5.10b, 5.10a) of "Apron Strings" or approach via the exposed "Flake Escape Ledge".

P1: (5.8) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout P2: (5.9) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout. Traverse right to the base of a roof. This move is often wet. P3: (5.10b) Traverse under the roof to a bolt ladder. P4: (5.10b) "Split Pillar" Beautiful crack. Finishes as a squeeze chimney. Bring 2x #3 1x #4 P5: (5.11a) "The Sword" Layback crack to a crux and more layback. Grab the rope of glory and aid to the anchor. P6: (5.11a) "Perry's Lieback" Traversing layback to a great chimney-like rest, then jugs to the anchors. P7: (5.10a) Traverse along a flat ledge to some 5.9 slab moves and finish with a 5.10a reach move. (Some may need to aid). Belay below a flake. P8: (5.10c) Climb up the tree then traverse layback around the flake and walk up to a ledge Protect the second. To escape via "Bellygood Ledge", climb right to an anchor. To head to the 'Roman Chimneys', head left. P9: (5.6) Traverse across the Bellygood ledge. Exposed.

Descent: Head down climber's right to some slabs and fixed ropes and eventually regain the Chief's hike.

Climbing the obvious left-facing corner near the left end of the crag; reaching right, sometimes far right, for the a couple of the clips.

Large easy slab on the right

New mulitpich that carries on above Klahanie crack.

Start at a large lone boulder and follow the left crack all the way to the top.

Great rock great jams great pro crux at the bottom

Start on top of the tree stump. Climb a series of ledges to the top. A layback crack about midway through is the crux.

A classic squamish big move.

Climb up along a broken left-facing corner feature.

The next bolt line right from "Flaming Arete" - climb the face past interesting dikes.

Two pitches. Great start to "The Grand Wall"

P1: Lieback crack to an exit crux, then follow V-groove. Small pro. P2: Discontinued crack climbing to "Flake Escape Ledge"

Main left crack. Tricky move off the ground 5.6/7 afterwards

Fixed draws

The bolted crack up the middle of the wall. Establishing in the crack off the ground is the crux.

Climb the striking arete.

Up the right crack

Yet another left-facing corner feature -- this one has a distinct roof about 2/3 of the way up.

Start low and traverse right until it is possible to mantle. Slopes and hooks are abundant here. Classic frictiony slopers.

An awesome finger crack

Bolted anchor at top

Climb a very deep right-facing corner to a chimney up high. Good quality and easier than it looks.

Fixed draws

Start on jugs in the chimney before moving right onto the slightly more technical face.

Start by scrambling up and under a small roof. Bouldery start to a deep crack running up diagonally to the right. Save some juice for the end.

Great lil 2 pitches to grab a nice view. first pitch is a great 5.9

Left-most crack/double-crack. Leads to anchor for Snuggle.

Middle crack of the lower triple.

Starts in a deep corner, goes up this for a few meters, then as it becomes dirty, step left onto the main face and follow the nice hand crack to the top.

Climb the very obvious and large crack on the left side of the wall. Anchor is the same as The Mechanic.

Left most climb on the wall -- climb a slab to an obvious (though easy) overhang. Watch for a couple loose holds at the top.

Starts directly in front of the approach trail.

P1. 5.7 15m 6 bolts. Climb the cracks and bulges to the ledge. P2. 5.9 26m, 11 bolts. Pull the initial bulge from the anchor (crux) then up easier ground above to the top.

Top-out for a nice flat peak with gorgeous views.