Routen in Pacific Ranges

The first ascent route of Waddington's main summit - this route has been compared to the 1938 Eiger North Face route, though only half as high. Repeated some years afterwards by Fred and Helmy Beckey, who added a variation finish to the final headwall.

This route also features as one of the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America (as the South Face of Waddington).

The 'standard' route up Mount Waddington - though still far from a stroll. This route starts at Rainy Knob above the Tiedemann Glacier to the east of the main summit, and traverses the Cauldron of the Bravo Glacier to reach the upper icefield, and then crosses the upper glacier to climb the 270-meter summit tower of the main peak of Waddington.

Most parties climb this in 3-4 days.

This route climbs the south side of the westernmost buttress of Combatant. According to Don Serl, a "pristine and challenging line"

Climbs the easternmost of the three major south buttresses of Combatant above the col. Approached via a bench at the elevation of the col (the Shelf)

Climbs the central, rectangular buttress above the Tiedemann icefall, gaining the Shelf. The FA party continued up Kshatrya directly above to the summit of Combatant, in a total of 5 days return trip.

One of the most technically challenging and committing lines in the Range, this massive route climbs the entire southeast pillar of Mount Combatant from the Tiedemann Glacier far below.

Broken by the subpeak of the Incisor and the ridge of the Jawbone, followed by the Toothless Tower and the final headwall, this is a huge undertaking that took the talented first ascentionists 8 days to complete.

Rising from Sunny Knob straight to the summit of Serra 2, this is one of the classics of the range. Rising over and around several towers on the ridge, with difficulties to 5.9, this route is highly recommended.

Parties usually take 1-3 days to climb and descend.

Starting directly above the Plummer Hut, climb upwards along the ridgeline, varying from side to side following the line of least resistance.

To descend, rappel the route. Fixed rappel tat may be present.

Climb the black, lichen-covered depression in the south face, following corner systems to the east ridge, then to the summit.

Descend the pocket glacier to the base of the southeast buttress. Climb this buttress, through sandy broken terrain and with poor protection in places in the first ~75m. Above this, the rock improves up a steep yellow slab to a small gendarme. Descend into the notch and climb easier ground above to the summit.

Descend as per the West Ridge (down that route.)

A juggy ascent moves into a slightly technical overhang section.

A tricky overhang using underclings moves into the 5.9 to the left.

Climb the obvious crack.

A strong climb involving crimpy moves.

Climb the very mossy section on the far right.

P1: 5.10b, 25m, 9 bolts P2: 5.9, 20m, 9 bolts P3: 5.10a, 20m, 9 bolts

P1: 5.10b, 28m, 12 bolts P2: 5.11a, 27m, 9 bolts

P1: 5.9, 9 bolts P2: 5.10a, 10 bolts

P1: 5.10d, 20m, 8 bolts P2: 5.11c, 20m, 10 bolts

P1: 5.9, 17m, 7 bolts P2: 5.10a, 25m, 9 bolts P3: 5.11a, 15m, 5 bolts

Uncleaned with ropes hanging

Amazing technical climbing down low leads to a rest with good holds and big moves to finish.

15 minutes from the lower Chek campground. Follow the flagging tape trail then cross a mossy talus field, following cairns.

1. 5.7 30m - Climb over a slight bulge and cruise to the next anchors.

2. 5.8 15m - One tricky move at the beginning

3. 5.8 15m - a little bit of fine ledging at the beginning. Slope becomes more shallow near the end.

4. 5.6 15m - a very shallow slope. Almost walkable.

5. 5.4 30m - very easy finish. maybe one move where you need to use your hands. Walk through the forest to find p6. Flagged well.

6. low 5th, 10m. Relatively simple climb. Has 3 bolts but not necessary.

Follow flagging to walk off along the ridge. In 15 minutes, you arrive back at the campsite.

New multipitch to the right of Ursa Minor. Bring 14+ draws.

P1-5.8 P2-5.6 P3-5.7 P4-5.0

Starts directly in front of the approach trail.

P1. 5.7 15m 6 bolts. Climb the cracks and bulges to the ledge. P2. 5.9 26m, 11 bolts. Pull the initial bulge from the anchor (crux) then up easier ground above to the top.

Top-out for a nice flat peak with gorgeous views.

Start on MOMD and traverse right into Serenity Now.

Bolted as two very short pitches:

P1. 5.10c 4 bolts, 8m. P2. 5.8 4 bolts 8m.

Can easily be linked.

Climb rounded bulges.

Start on 'Hindsight' and just below a small overhang, traverse into 'La Femme Makita'

Tough bouldery start to more moderate climbing above.

Jump to the first hold!