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Routes in Canyon Wall

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.11+ Spider Route

This route has a stopper crux. Hug the corner and get tech trying to figure out how this is possible. Fun finish. Could be a great mixed route if a bolt were added to protect the crux. Could be harder than 5.11.

Trad 8m
5.11 Narcolepsy

Start on Deliverance. At the roof, traverse left on slopers and finish up the spider-route dihedral.

Trad 8m
5.10c Deliverance

The obvious, chalky route about 20' left of Fred's Folly. A sweet route that climbs up the overhang. The little tree is not in. Contrary to popular belief, you're in its way.

This is a popular route, and many of the holds rarely see any rain fall. As a result, the bottom 2/3rds of the route suffers from some greasy/polished holds that may make the grade feel harder.

Two glue-ins at the top form the anchor.

Be aware of the rope hungry crack if you decide to top rope the route.

Sport 8m, 4
5.12+ Sorcerer

If top roping, use the anchor far back from the edge, you'll need a long rope for this. Do the first moves of Deliverance, then traverse right past the sketchy block (make sure your belayer is well clear). Dyno to the feature at the lip, then get super tech going up the face above with the mini dihedral. Great moves. It's been sent on gear.

Trad 8m
5.13 Unknown / Camisole left

This route is a bit of a legend. Known to be led by a certain bold and strong lad. The legend is as follows. Start on Camisole Cusp. When you finish the first steep section and the short left traverse, keep going left of the bolts. Continue up on really small gear.

Trad
5.12d Camisol Cusp

Starts just left of Fred's Folly, goes up an overhang (gear) to a crimpy and difficult-looking finish on 3ish bolts above.

Mixed trad 8m, 3
5.9 Fred's Folly

The obvious right-leaning crack at the right end of the wall. A classic for the area.

If leading on gear, a standard rack should be enough to get to the anchor, but new leaders should beware of the often greasy/polished holds at the start, and a famously sandbagged grade.

Trad 8m
5.11c Testicular Torsion

A wonderful, steep technical climb on small holds, with a dyno in the middle of the climb. May be 5.12 if you can't reach the good crimp.

Sport 8m, 3
V4 - 6 Star Gate

Easier from left to right. Start on Deliverance and traverse right along the base of the overhang. Go past Testicular, around the corner down low, and finish on jugs just before it becomes dangerous. Go there and back again for a solid 5.12-5.13 burn. Some fun variations exist going up to the ledge at various spots on the corner. Downclimb from these beside testicular.

Boulder

Showing all 9 routes.

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