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Routes as sport in Grand Canyon

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Showing all 15 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
5.8 Le Retour des Loups-Garous

Climb the bolted face right of the blocky corner through some thin slab to the shared anchor. Or continue on to the higher anchor (2 more bolts) for some more lovely friction climbing. 9 bolts / 25m for longer variant.

FA: Laurent Cloutier & Jean-Claude Neolet, 1998

Sport 20m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
5.9 La Cha-cha des Félins

The bolt line to the left of the obvious block of rock coming out of the wall.

FA: Jean-Claude Néolet, 1998

Sport 28m, 7 Montagne d'Argent
5.9 Piglet

Head up on vertical rock for the first bolts, then onto an upward-right slanting ramp. After leaving the ramp the climb finishes on slab.

FA: Jose Dionisio, 1997

Sport 25m, 7 Montagne d'Argent
5.10a Pathfinder
Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
5.7 La Belle de Cadix

Starts behind a pair of trees, and ends just below a tree as well. Climb the bolt line over some thin holds for the grade.

FA: Jean-Claude Neolet, 1996

Sport 14m, 4 Montagne d'Argent
5.10b Lucky Luke

Starts just left of the crack "Beaujolais Nouveau" and follows the bolt line to the obvious crack. The second to last bolt is often pretty loose because of people falling on it.

FA: Gaetan Castilloux, 1996

Sport 24m, 10 Montagne d'Argent
5.8 Le "Speech" de Gaétan

Obvious bolted line between the two cracks of Beaujolais Nouveau and Chute LIbre.

FA: Simon Brunet & Gaétan Castilloux, 1998

Sport 20m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
5.10b Rav - 4

Starts below a low roof with orange rock below the roof.

Climb up pulling the roof, to technical slab climbing above, with holds getting thinner as one finishes around the top of the steep section.

After climbing to anchors, can then extend to share top/second pitch of "La Valse des Temps Modernes" (5.9) -- but the interesting climbing is done by then. About 38m to the top anchors.

Sport 20m, 2, 10 Montagne d'Argent
5.9 Litige

This climb is above the lower (right) end of the main Grand Canyon wall.

From the bottom of the canyon, hike along the small trail rightwards, until it doubles-back (with fixed rope) up some 3rd class slab, as you would if you were going to set top-ropes for the main Grand Canyon walls. As you finish the roped slab, and come out near the top of the first climbs, look right (down into canyon is left) and you will see a bolted anchor, and bolts heading up from there. This is where the climb starts.

  1. 5.8 (32m) Thin slab past the first couple bolts, then straight-forward climbing to an anchor on a ledge.

  2. 5.8+ (25m) Traverse left along the edge to an obvious right facing corner/crack, up this over a small roof, as the crack widens to off-width to anchors up top.

Enjoy the view.

Descent: rappel the route, but if rappelling on a 60m rope, use the anchors directly below the crack of the 2nd pitch, rather then the anchors used during the ascent (climber's right of the crack/corner). Else, you may run out of rope getting to the base.

Sport 58m, 2, 12 Montagne d'Argent
5.10b Souris Chauve

FA: Gaétan Castilloux, 1996

Sport 34m, 9 Montagne d'Argent
5.9 Illusion

While listed in the guide as "mixte" (mixed, suggesting that gear is needed in some parts, but bolts are used in others), this really climbs as a sport climb. There is no point on the lead where you need to place gear.

Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
5.9 La Valse des Temps Modernes

A variant finish for Titanicomanie which makes the route sport the whole way.

Sport 38m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
5.10c Mauvaise Herbe
Sport 25m, 5 Montagne d'Argent
5.12a La danse de l'Ours
Sport 14m, 4 Montagne d'Argent
5.12c Le Tailleur de Pierre

Even thinner.

Rarely climbed, and usually in need of a rebrushing.

FA: Martin Castilloux & Gaetan Castilloux, 1999

Sport 22m, 6 Montagne d'Argent

Showing all 15 routes.

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