Ascents in Mt. Louis having Beta

approach took a while, all in all about 14 hours car to car. rad summit!

What a day! Have heard this beautiful mountain is the source of many epics and thankfully we had a very enjoyable outing. Leaving the car at 3:20am our original intention was to climb the classic 'Homage to the Spider' however after doing the scramble approach noticed that the lower pitches were still quite wet. Rather than force it we decided to return in a few weeks and salvage the day by climbing the Gmoser which Brendan hadn't done. After another hour phaffing back to the start we finally got to the base of the route at 8am. The lower pitches are quite fun and though gear is sparse, the is always something when you want it and the route finding was intuitive. The corner crack which is the crux is an absolute sandbag at 5.8! Depending on the source it can get a grade of 5.9 or 10a. The guidebook says 5.9 however I feel 10a is more appropriate. It is a stunning pitch and protects well. Joining the upper part of the Kain route is great and the final pitches on that route are super fun 5.7/5.8 crack and face climbing. Topped out at 2:30pm and did the 10 raps in under an hour. Helps when you know where they are! Back at the car by 6:30pm for a 15hr day including 2.5hours of approaching Homage and then heading back to Gmoser. A really great climb on a beautiful peak. Highly recommend!!

Descended in the dark and had a shiver bivy at the bottom. Type 2 fun.

Long day out! Fun, mostly sustained at an easy grade with a slightly greasy crux pitch.

Relatively quick. Simul climbed most of the route.

Great Day. trouble finding the first pitch and a little sun stroked on the way out but car to car in 16? hours

Partial lead (including crux pitch). A big day out! Would say that the crux pitch is feeling more like 5.9 these days, as the holds smooth out.

Onsight the year prior and soloed in an electrical storm - cross on the summit was humming with static

First real alpine rock climb. Loved every minute of it. We were able to scramble/solo to the lunch ledge, shaving off a fair bit of time on the ascent.

Pitch 4 very wet.