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Routes in Mt. Louis

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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.7 III Kain Route

The original route followed by MacCarthy/Kain in 1916. Following numerous pitches of easy climbing/difficult scrambling from the East, this route gains the imposing south face and shares the final 8 pitches or so with the Gmoser Route. The most difficult, exposed, and enjoyable climbing is at the Perren Crack (last two pitches).

FA: A. H. MacCarthy & Conrad Kain, 1916

Trad 700m
5.8 III Gmoser Route

Second/Clean of this dog tooth mountain. 14 pitches, the second last pitch grade 16(?)crack is totally exposed with 3000ft dropoff to valley below...check out the pics of Mt Louis on Canada climbing webpages

FA: H. Gmoser, 1964

Trad 700m
5.10a Homage to the Spider
1 5.9 35m
2 5.9 50m
3 5.8 60m
4 5.10a 50m
5 5.9 55m
6 5.6 20m

6 pitches of sustained, technical climbing, with an involved scrambling approach and several hundred metres of 4th and low-5th class climbing to the summit. Notoriously underestimated for its hard climbing.

FA: Tim Auger, Peter Arbic & Reg Bunyan, 1987

Trad 270m
FR:8a+/b The Shining

FA: Sonnie Trotter & Tommy Caldwell, 2011

Trad 15

Showing all 4 routes.

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