Ascents in Flatrock having Beta

went above the right traverse and had to down climb a couple moves. some holds are a bit dusty as the route is new but definitely worth it.

Oof trad onsight and my hardest pure trad route yet. Consistent climbing with cruxes at the bottom on the shared part of Candy and then a crux somewhere around the middle or higher.

Definitely old school 5.7. Took pretty good gear throughout, I used from a size two BD cam and downward, many nuts, and a few tricams.

It could be toproped to clean/follow/top rope with an anchor off of the Candy/Ass Master bolts with a redirect from a 0.4 cam placement just above where the corner ends.

A fun beginning trad lead even if I did freak out a bit in the middle. A bit pumpy! And feels ‘overhung’ at the top. It was also great that it was very dry today. A bit of foliage mid route.

Felt like glued (not always solidly) kitty litter.

Solid gear and good stances all the time. No harder than 5.6, I'd say.

A good flash, placing the gear

SEND!!! Started from the first quickdraw.

FINALLY REDPOINTED THIS ROUTE after having projected it for like, ten years. Had the quickdraws hung, but put in my own gear, the yellow 2 camelot and the green 0.74 camelot later. The crux clip then sequence was challenging, and the final moves after the last bolt traversing were challenging too. Was a great experience and so glad to have done this one. Will have to come back to do the ascent without pre-strung draws, possible to project '"Ledge Dweller" next time. Cheers, and thanks so much friends!!!!

Finally redopointed this without pre-placed draws. Had to do a high foot to get bolt 4 and also had to hand-tighten bolt 2 (it was mini-wrench tightened on the lower). Went to the new Maggie glue-ins after clipping the rightmost draw on the "Ledge Dweller" anchor. Was good to tick off, definitely pumpy in the crux to the first gear placement for a first climb. The top crux felt mildly better after a careful right foot placement.

Lead this and used a black tricam between bolts 2 and 3 as well as a 0.75 cam up top to protect the runout before the anchor.

Lead this clean on the second try today, narrowly not falling off as my left hand slipped just as my right hand acheived the jug after the crux.

Lead it with pre-placed draws and topped it out. Nice route.

Finally lead this after avoiding it (because it isn't like, good, it's just the most mediocre route ever). Stick clipped the high first bolt, climbed mostly to the right of the bolt line and was a bit to the right in the 'corner thing,' through the scrambly bit, then topped out to set up the toprope anchor. It's very... Well it's fine... I guess... Good one to tick off... It's actually not bad as a newbie toprope sort of...

Aha, finally redpointed this and placed my own gear. Had a solid pink tricam in the lower ledge.

As I climb this more, I wonder if a bolt added would be good before the anchor. The gear was probably solid, but it's right after the crux and at least to me, not as obvious as on the gear on Candy. Plus it takes a long time to put the pieces in and then there's 3 moves left or less.

Climbed this to take the quicklink left on the last bot on the face off. It is now at Wallnuts.

As I climb this more, I wonder if a bolt added would be good before the anchor. The gear was probably solid, but it's right after the crux and at least to me, not as obvious as on the gear on Candy. Plus it takes a long time to put the pieces in and then there's 3 moves left or less.

Climbed this to take the quicklink left on the last bot on the face off. It is now at Wallnuts.

Finally redpointed this after years o working up to it. Pre-placed the nut for the send.

Well I redpointed/onsighted it years ago. Friend set up the draws for practice, I cleaned it. Good stuff.

Love this as a first warm up.

Lead this on gear with my single rack and DB's extra cams sized 0.75-4 plus his large nuts and offset nuts. Placed gear with help of DB, apparently my placements were good at the beginning and less optimal higher up maybe I rushed them. Lessons learned are to try to place a larger cam in the space to get a better hold. Not trust pebbles. Place further in. Really test and set pieces. Either way it was a great experience and climb and very happy with it.

Lead this with a stick clipped first bolt thank goodness, pretty chill, crux then gear placement.

For gear, I had a decent tricam, a cam, and maybe another piece.

Probably only needed one but I couldn't find an amazing piece like on Candy, though I'm sure one exists, I wasn't confident enough that I knew where that was.

Super fun moves, classic climb.

That cam looked pretty solid today!

Lead it and this time I also placed a red tricam to the left of the 0.75 green BD X4 cam. Perhaps a bigger tricam could eliminate the need for a horizontal cam (even a very bendy stem one). Time will tell when that order comes in.

Great beginner trad lead.

Trad lead.

Trad lead

It was pretty wet today. Even did it without opening my chalk bag for increased willpower development. I missed the wet chalk, to be honest.

it was quite wet

it was dry!

Lead it after Michael set it up. Go you!

Toproped clean pulling from the first draw to achieve the route

learned to place gear on toprope

toproped again to place gear

Climbed during Flatrock Climbing Festival 2015

Toprope flash of this route after there are new glue-in bolts for anchors.

A narrow toprope send with lots of pump on this long and exciting route.

We couldn't get the rope to pull through from the bottom so we had to scramble down to pull it from the top. Options are to lead/follow, scramble to the top of yellow fever with the rope to rappel down, or scramble down to pull the rope. Could use some lower-off chains.

Toproped this with the anchor on the Ledge Dweller anchors before topping out that thing and bouldering on the ledge (ugh) while attached to the rope with a trailing tail rope to try to set up "Yellow Fever" and then I toppped out the top ledge and clipped my active rope into 2 quickdraws and went to the "Yellow Fever" ledge. Then set myself up on rappel with the second rope and an anchor. Then rappelled back to the "Maggie" top hanger anchor to clean the quickdraws and drop the rope back to "Maggie". And then ascended back towards "Yellow Fever" to equalize the toprope and eventually rappel down it to set it up on toprope. It took an hour and it was the WORST. Even though I was never not attached I no longer recommend this set up idea. I will just wait until I am good enough to lead "Yellow Fever" on gear.

Toproped this to get the moves. Somehow remembered parts of it!

Now working up to leading it, and leading it with the lead-in from the 'rap-practice' bolts.

new toprope personal speed record: 4:45

Toproped this one and enjoyed it.

Toproped this clean and then up and up a bunch more to set up some really nice photographs. Very fun moves and a long route. Awesome experience. Such a classic!

Toproped to the 'left,' to start and to the 'right,' to the end, going 'direct,' over the roof instead of out left. Really just messing around on the toprope before cleaning it because it was too wet to climb another route due to rain.

new personal toprope speed record: 2:03

cleaned it

Toproped this as a project. The beginning seemed to go except for the one crux move after the roof, pulling from the matched hands on the crimps, with a right foot out right on a pebble, going up right to the 'jug,' and then cross through left to the good jug. Must need perfect timing, better foot grab, or maybe more lock-off.

Then for the 5th element part, I could do a lot of the easier moves linked together. A few takes up top with the tricky corner back and forth, sometimes it would take some time to find the sequence. Found the last move hard actually after the juggy roof. Big move.

Lots of pockets and small crimps and body tension, hard on the fingers and skin, technical feet. The exposure is cool and it's nice by the ocean. A long-term project perhaps for lead, for toprope I think the 5th element part after that one hard move or starting from yellow fever could go within a few sessions but who knows if I'll get on it that much this season. Great experience

Toproped this to see the moves. Ended up traversing a bit late under the overhang for the finish moves of Gabe...

Toproped this as a project again - whew crimps! Nice route.