Ascents in Newfoundland having Beta

Relatively, one of the best routes imho at this particular crag. Pretty aesthetic. I started on the same feature as gRIPped, and then went straight up with a cool match and then left pocket to high right hand hold before the end. The LO lower off fixed carabiners are in good shape.

Some technical thin edge slab climbing and good old slab smears on this one. Happy to get the on-sight, and think it is about 5.10-, so "easy 5.10b" seems fair.

went above the right traverse and had to down climb a couple moves. some holds are a bit dusty as the route is new but definitely worth it.

Some fun climbing on holds, not just slab.

Climbed this after "Photophobia" so chose different holds and movement past the shared bolt to "preserve my on-sight".

First climb at the crag, and counting bolt lines from the right, thought this was "Sick Like Dog" (5.7). So, figured it would be a nice 5.7 warm up. That it was not. It was not a very pleasant 5.7, seeming quite hard for the grade. Then I found out that "German Access" was around the corner, oops.

At least it was quite closely bolted.

Lead on this little route, a nice warmup. Took off some pebbles from the ledge and some loose rock around it. At the top there are 2 hanger bolts and one quicklink for lowering.

First pitch is an easy slab - not much to it. Second pitch is hard for the grade.

Surprisingly steep for a 5.8, but there are big, jugs the whole way, though, I occasionally had to convince myself the flakes were solid, and occasionally you had to do a bit of route-finding to find the jugs.

Some very enjoyable stemming movement in the corner/groove.

Short but fun.

Great warm up climb. Bring lots of quickdraws

Oof trad onsight and my hardest pure trad route yet. Consistent climbing with cruxes at the bottom on the shared part of Candy and then a crux somewhere around the middle or higher.

Definitely old school 5.7. Took pretty good gear throughout, I used from a size two BD cam and downward, many nuts, and a few tricams.

It could be toproped to clean/follow/top rope with an anchor off of the Candy/Ass Master bolts with a redirect from a 0.4 cam placement just above where the corner ends.

A fun beginning trad lead even if I did freak out a bit in the middle. A bit pumpy! And feels ‘overhung’ at the top. It was also great that it was very dry today. A bit of foliage mid route.

Interesting features and Well bolted

Felt like glued (not always solidly) kitty litter.

Pleasant.

Takes decent gear. More engaging than I expected looking at it from the ground -- negotiating the way the right side of the crack leans out over the face makes it feel a lot steeper than it actually is.

The second steep section was not just wet, but wet and slimy, making what would otherwise have been a very enjoyable climb only enjoyable.

THIE ROUTE HAS AT LEAST 14 BOLTS ON THE FACE, plus the anchor (we used a 10m cordalette and 4 locking quickdraws).

Pleasant little less than vertical sport climb, with nicely featured slab, and some bits of trust-your-feet. Nice way to finish the day.

Fun little trade route, with generally good gear. Was told 5.7 (and that local trad grades were stiff), so kept placing gear in case things got hard, but they never did. Probably 5.5, but I'll leave it with the 5.6 down-grade on here.

Solid gear and good stances all the time. No harder than 5.6, I'd say.

An enjoyable trad ramble.

One of the better routes at the crag, stick clipped the bolt and had beta from a friend who toproped it before me. Good holds with a crux in the middle. The LO lower off fixed carabiners are in good shape. It's possible to toprope off the same anchor it shares with "Purgatory" with or without redirect carabiners.

A good flash, placing the gear

Flashed it after a friend had the second quickdraw hung and it was pre-clipped off bolt 1. I accidentally skipped the last bolt before the end, I might have been too far left, making the clip to the LO's scary. I would recommend actually clipping all of the bolts.

The route seems a bit runout between bolts 2 and 3, it's fairly easy and juggy terrain, idk about rock for bolting there. The last move clipping the top anchors I found a bit more challenging than the other routes, as the 'top jug,' seems to be on the 'right,' and it's slopey at the top elsewhere.

The top bolts and hangers seem fine, but the two quicklinks at the top seem kinda rusty. See note on 'Grateful Dead' about having lowered off these LO's at the end, it being okay, but I'm pretty light, and it was only a lower and no sudden movements or swings.

It appears on Mountain Project : face" target="_blank">https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108094394/cemetery-face

There are toprope routes to the climber's left some easy topropes with two anchor bolts each. We didn't try these today, but we vaguely saw shiny pieces we figure are anchor bolts. Could probably do the scramble to the left to get to them, with caution, to toprope and subsequently walk down with the anchors (?) to clean. An adventure for next time!

Overall, not a bad area especially with being so close to town, and the approach being super quick, even from the first 'lower' parking lot as mentioned at the end of the road.

SEND!!! Started from the first quickdraw.

FINALLY REDPOINTED THIS ROUTE after having projected it for like, ten years. Had the quickdraws hung, but put in my own gear, the yellow 2 camelot and the green 0.74 camelot later. The crux clip then sequence was challenging, and the final moves after the last bolt traversing were challenging too. Was a great experience and so glad to have done this one. Will have to come back to do the ascent without pre-strung draws, possible to project '"Ledge Dweller" next time. Cheers, and thanks so much friends!!!!

Finally redopointed this without pre-placed draws. Had to do a high foot to get bolt 4 and also had to hand-tighten bolt 2 (it was mini-wrench tightened on the lower). Went to the new Maggie glue-ins after clipping the rightmost draw on the "Ledge Dweller" anchor. Was good to tick off, definitely pumpy in the crux to the first gear placement for a first climb. The top crux felt mildly better after a careful right foot placement.

Lead this and used a black tricam between bolts 2 and 3 as well as a 0.75 cam up top to protect the runout before the anchor.

Lead this clean on the second try today, narrowly not falling off as my left hand slipped just as my right hand acheived the jug after the crux.

Tried to flash it, and broke a hold off the initial high right hand. Lowered off the stick clipped bolt, started from the ground, and then sent the route. Enjoyed it, it was big and dynamic and it played to all of my strengths. The LO lower off fixed draws were in good shape to clean the route.

Lead it with pre-placed draws and topped it out. Nice route.

Finally lead this after avoiding it (because it isn't like, good, it's just the most mediocre route ever). Stick clipped the high first bolt, climbed mostly to the right of the bolt line and was a bit to the right in the 'corner thing,' through the scrambly bit, then topped out to set up the toprope anchor. It's very... Well it's fine... I guess... Good one to tick off... It's actually not bad as a newbie toprope sort of...

Aha, finally redpointed this and placed my own gear. Had a solid pink tricam in the lower ledge.

As I climb this more, I wonder if a bolt added would be good before the anchor. The gear was probably solid, but it's right after the crux and at least to me, not as obvious as on the gear on Candy. Plus it takes a long time to put the pieces in and then there's 3 moves left or less.

Climbed this to take the quicklink left on the last bot on the face off. It is now at Wallnuts.

As I climb this more, I wonder if a bolt added would be good before the anchor. The gear was probably solid, but it's right after the crux and at least to me, not as obvious as on the gear on Candy. Plus it takes a long time to put the pieces in and then there's 3 moves left or less.

Climbed this to take the quicklink left on the last bot on the face off. It is now at Wallnuts.

Finally redpointed this after years o working up to it. Pre-placed the nut for the send.

Well I redpointed/onsighted it years ago. Friend set up the draws for practice, I cleaned it. Good stuff.

Love this as a first warm up.

Lead this on gear with my single rack and DB's extra cams sized 0.75-4 plus his large nuts and offset nuts. Placed gear with help of DB, apparently my placements were good at the beginning and less optimal higher up maybe I rushed them. Lessons learned are to try to place a larger cam in the space to get a better hold. Not trust pebbles. Place further in. Really test and set pieces. Either way it was a great experience and climb and very happy with it.

Lead this with a stick clipped first bolt thank goodness, pretty chill, crux then gear placement.

For gear, I had a decent tricam, a cam, and maybe another piece.

Probably only needed one but I couldn't find an amazing piece like on Candy, though I'm sure one exists, I wasn't confident enough that I knew where that was.

Super fun moves, classic climb.

That cam looked pretty solid today!

Lead it and this time I also placed a red tricam to the left of the 0.75 green BD X4 cam. Perhaps a bigger tricam could eliminate the need for a horizontal cam (even a very bendy stem one). Time will tell when that order comes in.

Great beginner trad lead.

Trad lead.