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Routes in Newfoundland for selected grade

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Avalon Peninsula St. John's The Talc Mines
5.11b Unknown (5.11 face)

Description The best bolted route at the Talc Mine. Climb the slab past a bolt to a diagonal crack (gear). Climb the diagonal crack for 10 feet until the second bolt can be reached via good holds. Follow the line of bolts past a vertical section with precarious climbing (crux) to easy ground. Scramble to the top, placing a couple pieces of gear on the way. Location The middle bolted line on the slab/face

Protection 6 bolts, gear, long slings. Top anchor has no rap hardware, can easily be reached from the top. Bring loads of cordalette, the rock has sharp edges near the lip.

Gear beta: Blue and yellow tcu size for the diagonal crack, larger camalots for the top (any two cams from .5 to #3 should work)

Mixed trad 24m, 6
Avalon Peninsula St. John's DFO Zombie Wall
YDS_ALT:5.11 Newfie Pirate Zombies

Follow the route up waving rock formation.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2010

Sport 35m
Avalon Peninsula St. John's Flight Path
5.11b Roll, Pitch, Yaw

Description At the waters edge, climb onto a ledge then clip the first bolt. Make your way up the steep face above until it slabs out, then figure out the exit moves past a final bolt. This one is a tricky onsight.

Protection 5 bolts + anchor. Cordalette or 4 foot slings required for anchor.

FA: David Bruneau

Sport 15m, 5
Avalon Peninsula Flatrock Main Face
5.11b A Farewell to Arms

Start in the flaring crack until the first roof, traverse right and up onto a small ledge. Move left and through another roof section past a bolt to the top. Two-bolt rappel anchor. Standard rack <3"

FA: J. Holmes, 1997

Mixed trad 20m, 1
YDS_ALT:5.11 Good Country Lovin'

Description Face climb past three slightly spaced bolts to a rest ledge, then climb the overhanging face above with some good but small gear. Pull the small roof on the right to a large ledge and top out via the wide easy crack to a three bolt anchor.

Protection three bolts, standard rack with micro cams, bolt anchor

Mixed trad 24m, 3
Avalon Peninsula Flatrock International
5.11b Unknown

Description Pull a hard move from the ground to establish on the layback. Work your way up the layback to a good side pull jug before making a big move to the top.

Protection Top rope only. Two bolt anchor. Can be set up with two two-foot slings & four locking carabiners, or similar.

FA: Unknown

Top rope 9m
Avalon Peninsula Flatrock The Locker
YDS_ALT:5.11 Scurvy

Climb straight up the line of bolts to the left of the crack.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2009

Sport 10m
Avalon Peninsula Portugal Cove Cemetary Face
YDS_ALT:5.11 Cremation

Follow the line up while keeping right towards the top to stay in the middle of the overhang.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2008

Sport 10m, 3
South Coast/ Burin Peninsula Blow-Me-Down Cliff, Devils Bay
5.11b II Savage Seas Alpine
5.11b III Dead Reckoning Alpine 2
YDS_ALT:5.11 I Hydro Slave Alpine 2
South Coast/ Burin Peninsula Swift Current Geometry Wall
5.11b 'round The Bay

Description Climb the arête and veer slightly right to climb the face after clipping the second bolt. Link into Gee I'm a Tree at the large horizontal ledge.

Location Starts at the bulbous arête between Weeping Angles and Gee I'm a Tree.

Protection 5 bolts and quick clips to lower off

FA: Trevor Harris, Aug 2021

Sport 15m, 5
South Coast/ Burin Peninsula Swift Current Tiger Wall
5.11b Soft Kitty

escription Short but intense. Balancy start leading to some nice juggy flakes with tricky footwork.

Protection 3 bolts, anchor. Stick clip the high first bolt.

FA: David Bruneau, 2022

Sport 11m, 3

Showing all 13 routes.

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