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The Stacks

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 7

Seasonality

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Summary

A series of short seaside stacks, about 5 metres in height, in a truly beautiful setting.

Description

Many of these routes are either climbed as top rope climbs or boulder problems. There are no anchors on any routes, so climbs are either finished with a walk-off or protected with tree anchors. When anchoring to trees, please be careful with the arbutus (ideally, don't anchor to them at all), and ensure your anchors are situated as low as possible on the tree trunks. The trail above is frequented by day hikers, and anchors may create tripping hazards.

Access issues

When approaching, please be mindful of private property nearby. The Stacks are on forestry land.

Approach

Two approaches:

  1. Park at the end of Hollingsworth rd and follow the trail south. At the first junction, head left to get to the bay, then trend right to find the Stacks. You'll see them.

  2. Park at the mailboxes at Loubert rd and approach as for Moss Mountain. At the Y junction, take the left branch and follow directly to the bay. From there, trend right to find the Stacks.

Ethic

The area is popular for bouldering, top rope and the occasional trad lead. Please do not add bolts to any of the climbs.

Routes

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Grade Route

A difficult, arching crack

A traverse across the entire area, either left to right or right to left. Start at either This Way Up or The Other Way Up. Popular.

An easy corner crack.

A somewhat blank face with rather technical thin crack climbing. A real finger shredder!

Climbs a prow without using any crack features. A solid climb.

Fun stemming crack. Either start as for Zig-Zag Blues, or for a more fun and direct start, jam the slightly overhanging crack below.

Starts on ledges to the left, grabs horizontal rails, then finishes right. Stay off the flakes around the Juniper bush. Has a few hollow, detached flakes out left which should be avoided.

Climb a series of crimps, then gently pull the flakes that the Juniper is growing on. Please be nice to the Juniper!

A small series of cracks that lead up to the right of the Juniper Bush.

The obvious wide chimney. Either squeeze in below the horns or above. Great fun!

A face climb to the right of the chimney.

A great climb! Starts on the hourglass flake, then hits a series of jams up to the roof. An awkward off-hands crack leads past an old bolt to the top. Burley.

Uses both corner cracks to climb up to a small roof, then mantel a block to the left. Pumpy.

Stick to the obvious hand crack to the right, then pull the small roof out right. Also pumpy.

Climb up Fist-i-Cuffs/Fist Direct, traverse left around the corner, then downclimb Meatgrinder. Can be done both ways.

A difficult climb up a prow while avoiding any of the nearby cracks.

A face climb just to the left of the large offwidth.

The obvious offwidth crack.

An excellent jam crack.

A small finger crack accessed from the top of a boulder.

A technical thin crack. Shares a start with This Way Up

The short slab at the far right.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 26 Apr
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