Routes in Tache blanche

An excellent climb and a great introduction to the cliff. Comfortable bolted belays at each stage, and an easy rappel descent. Anchors were rebooted in 2023.

Start on a small bushy ledge below a gap in the tree ledge above, or friction up to this ledge (5.8+ unprotected slab moves, unless you grab some shrubbery.)

1. Climb slab through the gap in the trees, then up face with protection in many horizontal cracks to a bolted belay between two tree islands.

2. Continue up the face aiming towards a small ledge to the right of a larger tree island.

3. Climb down and right along the ledge for a few meters, then up over a steep section then diagonally up and leftwards towards a short headwall with a bolt in it. Pull over the headwall then step right to the anchors. Beware of rope drag.

4. From the anchor, go a bit up then left and around to avoid the steep sections. (Variant, go a bit right, then pull directly over on good holds (5.7).). Continue up slabs past a new glue in to finish at a bolted belay.

Goes up an obvious crack that starts in the slabs about 5m above the base.

1. 45m Climb slabs to crack, then belay on anchors in the trees.

2. 50m Traverse on dirt left from the anchor, then climb up towards a small tree, then angle up and right from there to a bolt. From the bolt climb the obvious thin crack (excellent thin crack and face climbing) that goes up and left until you reach a sloping ledge and bolted belay.

3. 55m Continue following the crack up and left until it reaches steeper ground below a tree island. Pull over this, then diagonal up and right a few meters below the trees to a bolted belay.

One of the most recent additions to the Dôme's sea of texture slab climbing.

1. 5.10a 50m: Start just to the right of "voie de rappel", climbing a strip of darker rock. Traditional protection placements can be found on either side of this strip until the crux moves which are well protected by 3 glue-in bolts. Bolted belay on the white rock about 5m right of the "voie de rappel".

2. 5.9PG/R 50m: Climb straight up, aiming for the 2nd belay of "Tâche blanche" immediately right from the huge flake that looks like a small roof. Use creative gear placements, small gear, and perhaps some tricams to surmount these thin flakes.

3. 5.8 30m: Walk left along the big bloc to find good holds allowing passage onto a ramp leading you back right towards an opening in the tree ledge above. Bolted belay 5m left of "Tâche blanche".

4. 5.7 65m: Climb the slab straight up until you reach the headwall, and pass it on great holds on the left. From the plateau above the headwall, follow the diagonal cracks up and left to reach the final bolted belay that is located as high as the rock extends.

Descent

1. Bushwhack your way to the hiking trail's end.

2. Rappel your last pitch, then straight down to the "voie de rappel". I've seen several parties with 60m ropes skip the large flake belay. Some have made it, others were a few meters short. Pray to the rope stretch diety.

.75 cam, or stick-clip, or guts to start.

Start over some blocky ledges to a pair of obvious parallel cracks that head up and left.

1. 5.6 40m. Climb blocky ledges to a lovely hand-crack and finger-crack. Follow these up and left to a treed ledge, traverse a few meters right on the ledge, then up a short face across two left-leaning cracks to a bolted anchor.

2. 5.7 40m. Climb the obvious left-leaning cracks and rough rock (dike intrusion) to a bolted anchor below a small roof.

3. 5.5 PG 40m. From the anchor, step left and around onto the face to climb similar rock to pitch 2, but not quite as steep. A bit more run-out in places.

Rappel down and slightly (climber's) left to a bolted anchor in the middle of the face. From there, again down and left to the anchor at the top of P1 of Voie de rappel.

Follow a thin crack up and left to a bolt, then continue up and left to the trees.

Starts right, heads left with several traverses to eventually finish on "Voie de Rappel".

This climb starts at the top of the bushes right of "Voie d'evitement".

1. 5.6 Follow the obvious left-leaning crack (parallel to "Voie d'evitement") to a bolted anchor.

2. 5.7 Keep following that crack through a few bulges to a bolted anchor.

3. 5.8 Climb up to a large tree then follow a right-leaning layback to a slab move. Then make your way to a tree through dirty rock and moss. There is no bolted anchor on this pitch.

Sidenote: The last pitch is not often climbed even though the first few moves are awesome. Making is through the choss and the trees is a pain.

Descent: Rappel down towards the start of "Voie d'evitement"

Scramble to the start of "Patinoire". From there, climb straight up and follow the bolts to the left to reach the first anchor of "Patinoire". Good luck!

Bolted but some might find it a little runout where good pro would go. Descend by rappeling down to first pitch of "voie d'évitemnent" then to the ground.

From the start of "Patinoire", climb up the first few bolts of "Crazy Carpet" then (where it veers left) you have to options:

1. 5.8 Keep climbing up the face to the tree ledge. I don't know how it protects.

2. 5.8 Traverse right to reach a crack system that regains the same ledge. Protects relatively well.

Descent: Rappel down the route on the trees.

The obvious crack in the area.