Routes in Shannon Falls

The arete on the far right side of the crag.

70 METER ROPE MANDATORY

1. 40m(11d) climb up start of hungry wolf crack and then slab left to steep dihedral. Up it then move left past big ledge to arete . Tricky slab move leads to hidden dyke. Climb rightward up thin crack to awkward flare . Up to belay

2. 18m (10a)up finger crack. stop at rap station or continue up slab to top and walk off

1. (10b) climb crack to ledge and belay

2. (11b) Up dihedral to roof, traverse right and layback up corner crack. Up corner crack to belay bolts on slab. Rap off (50m) or continue up slab to trees and walk off

Climb Tricycle Dumptruck up to the deep bay. Head right into an exposed position along a traversing crack, then a great rest. Climb the steep handcrack above to the crux moves past a bolt. Cracks will continue up to the top of the wall and enjoy the view! It's easier to bring your second up after you than it is to clean the pitch. Rap twice to descend

The leftmost line above Zen Garden, a short finger crack leads to technical face climbing.

The obvious splitter ring lock crack. Bring an extra .75 or .5 for the bottom. The best route at the crag for its grade!

Pitch 1 is Cardhu Crack.

Named for Jean-Marc Savoie's newborn daughter Charlotte.

5.8, 5.6, 5.10b, crux pitch (supposedly 5.11a more like 5.10c/d), 5.8, 5.8

Start crouched with a left hand horizontal edge and right hand on the arete. Move up and traverse the ridge!

This crack is a great extension to Sacred Geometry.

SR to 4" double hand size.

Climb a short ramp to the right side of the roof, mantle past one bolt on good edges to a belay.

Cross the slab and up a short finger crack

The money pitch, Climb an amazing splitter hands crack, carrying triples of hand sizes are helpful.

The small off fingers crack on the right of Level Up. short and sweet.

A 70 METER ROPE IS MANDATORY

P1 Start as for local girls, but continue up the thin crack

P2 continue up the thin crack then break out right on the second quartz dyke. follow this out to the start of the thin finger crack. follow this up till its end and either step left for the original finish, or step right past a bolt to another splitter finger crack.

Boulder up the right sloping ramp to a balancy finger crack

Starts up the right side of the same groove as "The Relish Route", before veering right.

1. 5.6, 5 bolts, 25m

2. 5.10c, 7 bolts, 20m

3. 5.10b, 4 bolts, 15m

4. 5.7, 7 bolts, 33m

P1 can be done as a 1-pitch route from the ground. P4 can be done as a 1-pitch route from the upper ledge.

Start seated matched on the good edge.

An obvious left hand sidepull and a right hand just below the crack leads up left, avoiding the problems crack. Low start is an open project.

From the bottom climb a short slab up to an obvious thin finger crack. dance your way through this section to the anchors. Rap/ lower off (70m required!) or scramble over to the Pitch 3 anchors of Open Sesame

Climb Khaki Suit until it is possible to break right up the face past 2 bolts and horizontal cracks.

The best 5.10 at the crag! Climb steep cracks, Jugs, and side pulls to reach the ledge at the top

Splitter, chimney, splitter

1. 25m (10a)

2. 20m (10a)

3. 45m (10b)

to access the start of this route, break left off the approach trail before the steep section, follow this trail down to a junction by the creek. take the right fork and this will be the first route.

P1 easy climbing past a single bolt leads to a small ledge, clip a bolt above your head then pull a thin technical slab crux. easier featured face climbing leads to the anchors.

P2 Climb an easy slab to a layback crack, follow this to bolts above and fun featured climbing on great holds.

Crimp past 3 bolts to a short crack and a slab finish.

A tricky start leads to a good finger crack.

A variation to Skywalker. Instead of p3-5 of Skywalker, take the left-hand fork, following a crack line up the black slab. Also, the second pitch of Skywalker can be modified by taking a 10a crack to its left, that joins p2 half way up.

A small cam protects the opening moves, with leads into two bolts, and more broken cracks and slab above. To the right of Morse Code.

After the bolt-protected crux, follow small cracks to finish on the last 3 bolts of Mentalpiece.

This route goes right at the belay of the 2nd pitch of "The Relish Route".

The crack in the middle

The steep hand crack beside Densu's Dance

Start just left of the seeping rock, on the right side of the crag. Low first bolt marks the route.

A line of broken cracks to the right of Call Sign.

Bolted line right of Left The Nest.

This climb starts off the upper ledge reached by "The Relish Route". It starts at the far-right end of the dirt part of the ledge.

1. 5.9, 20m Climb thin slab with difficult moves at the first bolt, then easier to an anchor.

2. 5.7 (if that), 15m. Traverse right and gently up.

Use the anchors for "The Beaten Zone" to rappel -- 60m will get you to anchors, 70m will get you back to the ledge.

Starts from the left end of the upper ledge. Follows a dyke up and rightwards, then veers straight up.

Climb the right arete starting with a left sidepull and right mini-horn.

Obvious wide crack, Gear to #6 is required.

P1: Shares the first bolt with The Gatekeeper, head left just past this bolt and finger traverse to a nice crack. belay by the tree at the top of Pitch 1

P2: Hands and fingers corner to a forested bench.

P3: Climb the Arete to the main forested crag.

Bolted belay stations! A classic moderate that you can add some flare to if you want!

To the right of Magic Carpet Ride, you'll find the very obvious clean start.

1. Start on some good slabby edges up past a bolt, gain the crack and move right. Bolt-protected slab traverse gets you to the first belay station.

2. 5.8 a classic corner with an optional 5.10 variation. The variation has a mild runout on the first tenuous moves.

3. Ascend a nice and easy right-leaning crack system with a kicker at the end.

4. An easy pitch but the main reason people climb this route - fantastic views as you traverse the slab beside a good roof.

5. A short pull gains the upper slab and a quick walk past 3 bolts finds the top anchor.

Walk off to climber's right.

PDF Topo by Jeremy Frimer

Even with the 70m it didn't quite reach but the lower section is low class 5 so the climber can be lowered to there and climb down a little. Climb has a little of everything but is prone to some wetness.