Ascents in Penny Lane as Tick

Holy fuck that's hard! Season project... maybe. Great crack switch

This route is real but seems like it would go on a good friction day with fresh rubber and sanded tips. Not sure how you'd place the gear though ha-ha

New proj before it gets sunny

Quite a hard smearing move which I did not have time to figure out.

It's almost the season for this route although this crag is definitely a sun trap.

2x fitness laps

blue stopper, then .50 camalot, the rest of it is nuts and aliens, dont forget the nice pinch toward the top

first nut placement is smaller than first thought. Blue omega. Remember that where it feels a little flared up top it will soon give you a nice pinch then easier finish.

Two laps of this on top-rope. Looking forward to leading this badboy!

I have all the gear beta for fellow top-rope-the-shit-out-of-this red pointers. Small gold BD wire, .75 C4, 2 x .3 C4s, couple of .5s and .4s… then a little purple BD wire before the split and run that fucker out to the top!

Would be a somewhat runout lead for a sport route. Figured out all the movement. Maybe another go before attempting the RP.

Two hangs on the dog-lead! Will redpoint this next time.

Whipped off.

Felt like a cake-walk.

Gave this a quick rip today. Should go.

Putting the rope up on Kahoukers.

Was having a high gravity day. I'm gonna start throwing lead laps on this route to get my head back in the game.

Feels like a sandbag to me. Specially in today's muggy conditions. Won't be coming back to this one.

Finished her off.

Quick lap.

Warmup + 2nd hot lap.

Found four no-hands rests this time.

Lay back 1st crux pro is good but a little below the feet woo haa. Upper mantle move is not too bad, move out right a little.

Gripping. Watch some crusher from Vancouver cruise it and her burn psyched me to go have a look at the crux. A good project.

Nice climb. Lead next time.

A very quality line!

Gonna put it out there that this is a Penny Lane .11b. I think the mantle crux is harder than the crux on the Yorkshire Gripper. Direct finish up the crack at the top is best.

To figure out the gear for the reappoint.

Fell on the crux this morning. Solid at the grade. Classic crack.

Fell once and hung once. Onsighted the crux but faffed with gear up high!

This route is hard.

Balancy move into the crack, then easy up the transition left at halfway.

Fitness lead lap x2