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Routes in The Grand Wall

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Showing all 15 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.11d The Roman Chimneys
1 5.11a
2 5.11a
3 5.11d
4 5.10b

Scramble up ramps left of The Grand Wall topout, reaching the Dance Platform, with the Roman Chimneys on the L end.

  1. Scramble to top of large flake, continuing up broken cracks to a face crux past bolts to belay on L side of huge flake.

  2. The Boot Flake. Move into the wide crack to belay on a large chockstone. Bring larger gear.

  3. Climb chimney. An easier but more bold 10d option moves left into shallow corner up to a horizontal ledge and belly crawl back into the corner.

  4. Continue up corner.

Trad 140m, 4
5.12d The Shadow
Trad 8
5.12a University Wall
Trad 8
5.11b The Grinning Weasel
Unknown 25m
5.12a The Left Side
Trad 40m
5.13b The Free Grand

FA: Scott Cosgrove & Annie Overlin

Trad 16
5.12c The Underfling
Unknown 15m
5.10c The Flats to Bellygood
Unknown 50m
5.11a Perry's Lieback
Sport 25m
5.11a The Sword
Trad 25m
5.10b Split Pillar
Trad 45m
5.11a The Grand Wall
1 5.8
2 5.9
3 5.10b
4 5.10b
5 5.11a
6 5.11a
7 5.10a
8 5.10c
9 5.6

Great sustained climbing all the way. Bolted anchors.

You can either climb the two pitches (5.10b, 5.10a) of "Apron Strings" or approach via the exposed "Flake Escape Ledge".

P1: (5.8) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout P2: (5.9) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout. Traverse right to the base of a roof. This move is often wet. P3: (5.10b) Traverse under the roof to a bolt ladder. P4: (5.10b) "Split Pillar" Beautiful crack. Finishes as a squeeze chimney. Bring 2x #3 1x #4 P5: (5.11a) "The Sword" Layback crack to a crux and more layback. Grab the rope of glory and aid to the anchor. P6: (5.11a) "Perry's Lieback" Traversing layback to a great chimney-like rest, then jugs to the anchors. P7: (5.10a) Traverse along a flat ledge to some 5.9 slab moves and finish with a 5.10a reach move. (Some may need to aid). Belay below a flake. P8: (5.10c) Climb up the tree then traverse layback around the flake and walk up to a ledge Protect the second. To escape via "Bellygood Ledge", climb right to an anchor. To head to the 'Roman Chimneys', head left. P9: (5.6) Traverse across the Bellygood ledge. Exposed.

Descent: Head down climber's right to some slabs and fixed ropes and eventually regain the Chief's hike.

FA: Ed Cooper & Jim Baldwin, 1961

Trad 300m, 9
5.12b Genius Loci
Unknown 5
5.10c The Upper Black Dyke
Sport 150m, 4
5.13b The Black Dyke
Unknown 7

Showing all 15 routes.

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