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5.10b Born Again

The route combines a number of new pitches with old pitches of 'Bloodlust' and 'Bandwagon'.

  1. Ascend the slab past several bolts and discontinuous crack features to a ledge on the right

  2. Thin moves with close bolts leads to easy rambling and a station 10m above the large ledge

  3. Step right into the thin corner and follow it all the way to the top. A few face moves to the left take you to the anchor. Many nut and small cam placements

  4. Past an old chain station at the top of the corner, and horizontally out right across the slab. You will be crossing Dancing in the Light at your 4th bolt. Continue right to the base of a crack system.

  5. Up intermittent cracks until forced to step right around the arête into flakes on the side-wall of the Diedre corner. Up these for several metres, then back left past two bolts into the next crack system. You may need to give climbers on Diedre space when in the close section. Belay at the large ledge with a cedar tree.

  6. The splitter hands-to-fingers corner, and face crack above. Begin on the right behind the tree.

  7. Step right into a scoop, and follow the blunt arête to a station just below a ramp leading to Broadway ledge.

Gear:

  • Nuts
  • Cams TD to #3
  • Double Cams to #1
Descent:
Probably wise to keep the rope on to get up onto Broadway, then down right to the top of Diedre. 40m 4th class. Standard Apron descent to the South.

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