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Routes in Mur de l'ouest

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Showing all 37 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
2ème étage
5.9 Voie du Boulot

Left-most climb in the section, starts above a cluster of birches, up a scramble at the left end of the cliff.

Sport 25m
5.8 Ruban Rose

Past the first anchor is a short (2 bolt) extension up the headwall at 5.10d, to a 2nd anchor.

Sport 27m
5.9 Diedre Mauve
Sport
5.10a/b Vas et Viens
Sport
5.10c Nomioneau
Sport
5.8 Pop Tarts

Crack that starts upwards then trends leftwards.

Trad 27m
5.8 Pop Corn
Trad 27m
5.10a La Gaffe

Glue-in bolts to the right of Pop Corn. The at-grade climbing is well-bolted, but the easier, though somewhat insecurem climbing above is quite run out (5m between bolts), so some small gear would be helpful.

Mixed trad 27m, 6
5.9 La Centrale
Trad 27m
5.9 Voie Sylvain
Trad
5.7 Aucun Idée

Obvious wide (at the start) crack the heads up the face, leaning slightly left.

Trad 27m
5.8 Incognito

Climbs the face just to the right the wide crack, starting past 2 bolts.

Mixed trad 24m, 4
5.10a/b Le Soleil se Leve a l'Est, le Mur est a l'Ouest

Climb two closely-bolted overhangs to an intermediate anchor (stop here if you just want the steep stuff) or continue up the slabs (easier) to another anchor. Still lowers just fine on a 60m rope from the higher anchor.

Sport 27m
5.10b Passe Partout
Trad
5.10d Le Judge Gomery
Trad
5.11a Manon Vient Danser le Ska
Trad 18m
5.12c Sentinelle
Mixed trad 16m, 5
5.11a Boing Boom Tschak

Variant (left) finish for Cocu.

Trad
5.10c Cocu
Trad
5.11 Coucou
Trad
5.10d Cuicui
Sport
5.8 La Gosse Toutoune

Jagged wide crack.

Trad
5.10b Avant première

Farthest right route of the section.

Runs up the face left of an obvious arete, angling leftwards.

Sport 20m
Ionescu
5.9 Carnage d'Acier

Left-most route of this section.

Sport 20m, 9
5.8 Peril Inoxydable

Next bolted route right of "Carnage d'Acier".

Sport 25m, 8
5.10a La Doune

The thin crack - easier at the bottom, harder after the bolt at the top.

Mixed trad 18m, 1
5.10d The Cat Direct

A sport-bolted direct finish to "The Cat".

Mixed trad 18m, 5
5.8 The Cat

Climb the steep, but juggy, crack system below the trees midway up the cliff, then after passing the trees, angle right to share the finish up the corner and anchors with "Lister".

Trad 18m
5.8 Lister

Layback up the right-facing edges to a blocky crack system, then finish up the left-facing corner to the anchor shared with "The Cat".

Trad 18m
5.10b Kriten

Shares the start (first 3 bolts) with "Ace Rimmer", then traverse left to the roof. After pulling the roof, proceed to the thin finish.

Bolts are bit sparser than one might like.

Sport 18m, 6
5.10a Ace Rimmer

Shares the first three bolts with "Kriten", then proceeds more directly upwards.

Sport 18m, 8
5.11c Chest-bras
Sport 17m, 7
Deux de Pique
Mixed trad 17m, 7
Chateau de Cartes
Sport 18m, 10
5.10b Romulus
Mixed trad 20m, 7
5.10a Cumulus

Nice route with 2 distinct crux. Get through the slight over hang with a second bolt, challenging to clip if you don't commit the move, to easier climbing and rest before getting to the anchor. The route is right of Roma. FQME setter and First ascent: Laurent Vachon Roy.

Belle voie avec 2 crux distincts. Traverser le léger surplomb avec la deuxième plaquette, difficile à clipper si vous ne vous engagez pas dans le mouvement, suivi d'une grimpe plus facile et un repos avant d'arriver au relais. La voie est à droite de Roma. Ouvreur FQME et First ascent: Laurent Vachon Roy.

FA: Laurent Vachon Roy, 18 Aug 2023

Sport 18m, 6
5.8 Mortaise

At the far right of the sector, follow the obvious dihedral. One obvious glue-in at the start, and another shortly thereafter.

Gear, past the bolts, is generally good.

FA: Sebastier Dery, 26 Aug 2023

Mixed trad 18m, 2

Showing all 37 routes.

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