Routes in Mont King

Dyno X2!!

Key hold broke in 2014. Problem is probably dead...

There are two bolted lines up the slab on around the right-side of the cliff, not visible from the main face, this is the left one, up steeper but more featured ground.

Boulder just left of Egyptien

Low and SDS for "Le golfeur".

Down-climb the boulder by this problem.

Climb the slab past 10 bolts.

The arete at the right-end of the main part of the cliff.

Climb a series of left-facing lay-back flakes past one horizontal crack to a second one. Traverse left past a dark streak to a light streak to belay right of a tree. Second pitch continues up rightwards from the belay.

Climb "Bastard" Until you see a bold on a face to your left. Finish at an anchor just above that bolt.

SDS for "La Tortue".

1. Cross slab (little to no pro) and mantle up ledge on the left end. follow ledge to the right and climb up the thin cracks to a mantle on the next ledge.

2. Climb up to a small roof/corner with a crack in the back, sloping ledge to the right, get up on ledge (crux) and traverse right to sloping ledge with a big crack.

3. traverse right to corner (exposed) and (Variation) keep traversing right to last vertical crack and head up over a ledge to the top of the cliff.

Gear: Protect your second!!!! big pieces are nice to have on the second and third pitches.

Descent: Rap down double ropes the overhanging amphitheater (amazing) or do 2 rappels off the right ledge (hanging rap bolts).

SDS. Right to left traverse that finishes in "No Mosquito".

Bonne chance avec la main gauche...

Dihedral arête

SDS. Same start as the "V4" traverse, but go straight up on the wall.

Easier start than staircase.

Start on some horizontal cracks left of the roof above the start of "Staircase", traverse rightwards gently rising until in the corner shared with "Staircase", go up to the roof, dodge it to the left, then pull back right above the roof then up trending rightwards initially.

Straight up with Variation start.

Left hand in front or on the side of the arete. Right hand in good slot. High foot and dyno to the good jug.

SDS for "L'Afrique à l'envers".

Start below a large roof a few meters up, below a small roof about 2m up (that gets larger further right). Pull some hard moves up over the first roof, then up to the large roof. Traverse up and right under the roof, then angle up and trending slight rightwards for a bit, before going directly upwards to anchors.

After the 5.8 start, and 5.6 traverse under the roof, the rest of the climbing is 5.5.

Many variations on the start exist.

Possibilité de finir dans la deuxième longueur de Bastard.

Follow the obvious stepped crack up and leftwards.

SDS du "Dièdre du vélo"

Center of the small face to the left of the cave opening.

Exposed, watch out.

Climb the slab right of the crack.

Big slab to the right of the cave.