Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ 不怯 - with 小跳kexin | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 水池亭子区 | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with 一宏 | 18m, 8 | Average | ||||
在山东的第一条。虽然都是大点,但感觉好难🤯
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 水池亭子区 | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with 小跳kexin | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 21st Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 大S - with 一纯 | 20m, 10 | |||||
最后挂顶需要很强的心理建设…感谢鼓励员一纯老师
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5.10a | ★★ 大S - with 一纯 | 20m, 10 | |||||
倒数第二把挂放弃了 下次一定!
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5.9 | ★★ 不怯 - with 一纯 | 16m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
slab舒适区
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5.10d | ★★★ 五线谱 - with sarah | 14m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
热手指好线!好tm抠
再次意识到相对力量的重要性
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5.10a Hard | ★★ 摸鱼儿 - with 一纯 | 16m, 6 | |||||
开发了新动作【下巴撑点】
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 水池亭子区 | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with 一纯 | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
终于!!!!!
感谢一纯老师的耐心指导!
第一次认真磕线...一条10A磕了5次...算是认识到了自己的短板以及弱项,没有休息的线路6把挂之后开始力竭,上线前的心理状态格外重要,需要多摸动作不断优化,找到自己的最优动作解,换手休息把最酸胀的感觉过度之后就要走,停留太久反而更加难,不能过于依赖一个好的脚点,力竭是可以靠欺骗过去的,人的体力是无限的,只不过脑子不这么想罢了,意志力与信心是可以顶住的,岩壁上找不到点会慌乱,深呼吸调整心态,冷静下来才能找到更合理的点以及动作。
之后野攀要注意行前的身体状态调整,熬大夜nono ...同时急需一些耐力与意志力的训练(体重也该降一降),岩感也需要多摸多积累。
再次感谢一纯老师指导磕线!!!!!
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5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with 一纯 | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 21st Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a Hard | ★★ 大S - with sarah | 20m, 10 | |||||
清顶收挂,再做了一遍之前挂顶的beta,我真的深深地记住了这套连招😂
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5.10a Hard | ★★ 大S - with Fuafrank | 20m, 10 | |||||
生日当天第一把os掉5月就被summer推荐的目标线,还好当时没爬,不然今天痛失一次os机会。挂顶果然难,在离地20米的地方做了15分钟心理斗争,反反复复摸点试beta-退回去休息-再回去继续摸点,直到摸到正确的手点然后把动作连起来忐忑地挂上了。下来之后心率高得想吐,并且听说好多大佬都在这个挂顶冲坠,顿时感觉最近的意志力练习真的是卓有成效,动作很简单,但是需要红线的决心和认真摸点的耐心。也恭喜保护员jason连着两条红线
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - 邹城 Zou Cheng | |||||||
昌平山 昌平山老岩场 | |||||||
5.11a/b | ★★★ 最后的疯狂 — 3 attempts - with 恋Y | 16m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
倒数第二把难点,往右横移拍大点有点极限,拍到后挂左脚压起左手侧拉可挂顶,顶上没挂我够不到。
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ 不怯 - with 忠宝 | 16m, 8 | |||||
起步没顶住,两次大摆荡心态崩了,而且解快挂好难。没体验到后面大slab的快乐555
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5.9 | ★★ 雨过天晴 - with 一纯 | 14m, 6 | |||||
我升级了!!
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5.10a | ★★ 摸鱼儿 - with 忠宝 | 16m, 6 | |||||
5.10d | ★★★ 五线谱 - with Fuafrank | 14m, 4 | |||||
一条线宣告今日攀爬的结束,昨晚的鸡爪看来没补到指力
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5.9 | ★★ 不怯 - with 忠宝 | 16m, 8 | |||||
芜湖*2 舒适区again,左右两边都是好缝,全程slab
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5.9 | ★★ 雨过天晴 - with Fuafrank | 14m, 6 | |||||
芜湖 枣庄的缝就是我的舒适区
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5.10a | ★★ 摸鱼儿 - with Fuafrank | 16m, 6 | |||||
好碎 起步有点仰角 不敢先锋
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 水池亭子区 | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with 忠宝 | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
下次一定!!!
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5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with 一纯 | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
下次一定!!
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5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with 一纯 | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
下次一定!
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5.10c | ★★ 路漫漫 - with 忠宝 | 26m, 10 | |||||
小怪有没尽头枣庄有路漫漫。爬线的时候满脑子都是:为什么要叫我上线哇???
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5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with 一纯 | 18m, 8 | |||||
5.9 | ★ 岁月静好 - with 忠宝 | 15m, 7 | |||||
第一次野外拆站!
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5.9 | ★ 岁月静好 - with 一纯 | 15m, 7 | |||||
横切那个难点至少爬了五遍吧😢
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5.10c | ★★ 路漫漫 - with sarah | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
本来是这次的目标线之一,但前面那个仰角爬得我痛苦面具出来了,后面几把快挂也好遥远啊 还是等我变强一些再红吧!yyh老师顶绳保可越来越稳啦
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5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with Fuafrank | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
心心念念3个月的线,也是第一次为了红线背动作找beta,终于红咯 谢谢保护员jason
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5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with Fuafrank | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
动态没顶住,下来重新红
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5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with sarah | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
顶绳摸动作2(确定了挂顶beta:反提+折膝
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5.10a | ★★ 豆蔻年华 - with Fuafrank | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
顶绳摸动作1(确定了一个很稳的小动态和一个迷你横切)
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5.11c | ★★ 红双喜 - with sarah | 16m, 7 | |||||
考脚法考指力 今晚先啃了鸡爪(鸡爪,既是鸡的手,也是鸡的脚,所以理论上啃鸡爪既能涨指力又能涨脚法
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5.9 | ★ 岁月静好 - with Fuafrank | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
横切还是蛮吓人的 红了之后挺爽的
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
刁花峪洞 Diao Hua Yu Cave | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 剪刀手 - with Big Wall | 16m, 5 | |||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - 青岛 Qingdao | |||||||
浮山 Fu Hill 201 | |||||||
5.10a ~5.10b | ★★ Baby — 2 attempts - with Kuanran Cao | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.12b | ★ 聪明的人类 - with DavideT | 14m, 5 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ 星辰大海 - with DavideT | 14m, 6 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ 不怯 - with DavideT | 16m, 8 | |||||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ 雨过天晴 - with Maksim Komarov | 14m, 6 | |||||
5.10b | 秋未凉 - with Maksim Komarov | 20m, 9 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ 雨过天晴 - with DavideT | 14m, 6 | |||||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 水池亭子区 | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ 路漫漫 - with DavideT | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 14th Jul 2023 - 青岛 Qingdao | |||||||
浮山 Fu Hill 201 | |||||||
5.8 | ★ 花鼠 - with Kuanran Cao | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 摸鱼儿 - with 欢乐涛声 | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
难点在第二把到第三把快挂力量型
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Thu 6th Jul 2023 - 邹城 Zou Cheng | |||||||
护驾山 | |||||||
5.10c | 彩霞追月 - with 恋丫 | 12m, 6 | |||||
Thu 6th Jul 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
刁花峪洞 Diao Hua Yu Cave | |||||||
5.12b Hard | ★★★ 白家丸子 | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A stiff 9 move V5 boulder problem on this shorter 5.12 climb, leads to a good rest followed by classic moves and a great surprise ending.
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Wed 5th Jul 2023 - 青岛 Qingdao | |||||||
黄山崮 | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Qingdao Dream - with 农民 | 110m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11a | ★★ 朋自远方来 - with 农民 | 220m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 3rd Jul 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
刁花峪洞 Diao Hua Yu Cave | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 620 — 2 attempts - with YopSter | 18m, 10 | |||||
点都很大 就我太弱而已
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5.11a | ★★ 糖醋鲤鱼 - with YopSter | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
超爽
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Mon 3rd Jul 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ 星辰大海 | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
线路不长但需要一些技巧,翻越屋檐后才是考验技术和胆量,尤其是新人综合能力不强时,但对于岩馆选手还是很轻松的,几位老岩友体验过后都觉的很不错👌。
⚠️保护员和攀登者在4进5进6的位置一定要留意冲坠的绳距,宁少勿多。
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - 青岛 Qingdao | |||||||
黄山崮 | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Dream it possible - with 农民 | 95m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
刁花峪洞 Diao Hua Yu Cave | |||||||
5.11b Hard | ★★ 烟雨蒙蒙 - with YopSter | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sent this today for warm up after dialing the beta yesterday with Jop
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5.11b Hard | ★★ 烟雨蒙蒙 | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice added route to the already extensive fun routes at the cave. Semi-good rest leads to the crux. Lots of (little) ledges.
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Sat 1st Jul 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
刁花峪洞 Diao Hua Yu Cave | |||||||
5.11b Hard | ★★ 烟雨蒙蒙 — 2 attempts - with YopSter | 18m, 8 | |||||
Tough baby
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5.11b | ★★ 梁上君子 - with YopSter | 16m, 6 | |||||
好线 耐力不足 😭
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5.12d | ★★★ 太阳女神 - with 三胖子,王晶,夜行人,海东青 | 15m, 6 | |||||
5.11b ~5.10c | ★★ 月亮之上 - with YopSter | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short but fun
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ 飞婵(非孱) | 15m, 7 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ 沉默的夏天 | 15m, 7 | |||||
5.12a | ★★ 鲜衣怒马 — 2 attempts | 28m, 12 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ 朕还能爬 | 18m, 6 | |||||
5.11b | ★★★ 扶朕起来 | 18m, 9 | |||||
5.10b | ★ 第一次 | 10m, 4 | |||||
5.10a | ★ 心跳 | 10m, 4 | |||||
5.10b | ★ 众乐园 | 10m, 5 | |||||
Sat 24th Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 水池亭子区 | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ 汀汀的力量 — 6 attempts | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.12b | ★★★ 汀汀的力量 — 2 attempts | 14m, 6 | |||||
挂第二把挂有点难,其他还好,规划得好的话也有休息点。属于易红难on的那种风格
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ 朕还能爬 | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
后半段原定左侧的线很容易落石,建议靠右走。掰了一块脑袋大的石头下来,所幸无人受伤。
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5.11b | ★★★ 扶朕起来 | 18m, 9 | |||||
找好休息点的话还可以。还挺有意思的线,重要的点基本都在设想的位置上
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5.10b | ★ 第一次 | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
非常考验脚法和找点能力的线,难在找beta
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 青岛 Qingdao | |||||||
小麦岛公园 | |||||||
V1 | 爱的魔力转圈圈 - with marvin, panyixin, 1+, 星星 | ||||||
不知道爬了个啥,crag和路书对不上,应该是小麦岛的猫岩场,找个名字好听的线打个卡。
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ 鲜衣怒马 — 5 attempts | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
石马岩场 Stone Horse 2A&B | |||||||
5.8 | 元旦 | 12m, 6 | |||||
5.7 | sunshine | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★★ 一路顺风 | 17m, 5 | |||||
5.5 | 三个五 | 12m, 4 | |||||
Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
石马岩场 Stone Horse 1A | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ 飞行的UFO | 15m, 7 | |||||
Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
石马岩场 Stone Horse 2A&B | |||||||
5.8 | 元旦 - with 老曹 | 12m, 6 | Average | ||||
比隔壁的sunshine5.7要简单。最后一个挂片到顶距离有点远,但很简单。
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5.7 ~5.9 | sunshine — 2 attempts - with 老曹 | 12m, 5 | Average | ||||
一点也不像5.7。建议升级。
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5.5 | 三个五 - with 晓晓 | 12m, 4 | Crap | ||||
一路上只有一个挂片,并且没有顶。攀爬的路线看起来是人凿出来的台阶。线路尽头是个洞,可能是以前的人凿了个进洞的路线。
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5.10b | ★ 磨盘 - with 晓晓 | 19m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
线路看着很高,爬起来有点累。中间抓了两把树。
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5.9 | ★★ 一路顺风 - with 老曹 | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
有个小难点,但是顶绳不慌,一把过了。
第一个挂片很高,如果先锋,很考验心理素质。
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
石马岩场 Stone Horse 1A | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ 农夫 - with 老曹 | 15m, 8 | Crap | ||||
中间一段找不到点,天色将晚,果断放弃。
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5.9 | ★★ 飞行的UFO - with 老曹 | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
感觉比5.9难。中间有个小仰角,磨蹭半天找到了过去的方法。
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10b Hard | 秋未凉 - with DavideT | 20m, 9 | |||||
5.10c | ★ Banana-hammock 香蕉吊床 - with Ian 溫翊恩 | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10c | ★★ 风乍起 - with DavideT | 23m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 滴水洞 Drip Cave | |||||||
5.10d | ★ 长了毛毛的心 - with Ian 溫翊恩, Maksim Komarov, DavideT | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Thanks for your beta Ian 溫翊恩! Wouldn’t have been possible without your help
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10c ~5.11a | ★★ 过四米 | 16m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
一进二动作显然不是10线应有的。要红这条需要11bc的实力
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5.12a | ★★ 鲜衣怒马 | 28m, 12 | |||||
休息点多到不像是条难度线,整体偏软
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 水池亭子区 | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ 汀汀的力量 | 14m, 6 | |||||
分完觉得还行,翻出屋檐有点难
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5.11a | ★★ 老玩童 | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.12a ~5.12b | ★★ 右上上签 - with Maksim Komarov, DavideT | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fierce, intensely crimpy, technical. The route is sustained, full on from start to finish. Body tension footwork while cranking on the sharp incuts presented crux moves for me. Even clipping the anchor is hard. Stiff.
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Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - 淄博 Zi Bo | |||||||
刁花峪洞 Diao Hua Yu Cave | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ 梁上君子 - with Big Wall | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - 青岛 Qingdao | |||||||
海洋大学沙滩 | |||||||
V1 | A3-3 - with marvin, panyixin, 1+, 星星, 大师姐 | ||||||
V2 | A3-1 - with marvin, panyixin, 1+, 星星, 大师姐 | ||||||
更是不知道爬了个啥,留下快乐打卡,青岛岩友好幸福,和朋友来青岛我们更幸福。
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Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | |||||||
夹谷山 Jia Gu Mountain 主岩壁 Main Cliff | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 大裂缝 | 26m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★ 保护者 | 16m, 9 |